Home Page link

Finishing a Basement

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 1 of 2       1 2 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Finishing a Basement nateneu2424 08-04-2006
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by nateneu2424 on August 4, 2006, 8:38 am
Handy man in traing here. I have a few questions in regards to
finishing a
basement?

1) metal vs wood studs. I've never had a problem with water in
basement and was just wondering which would be the better option?

2) How far
off the cement walls typically are the studs placed to
frame the walls?

3)
insulation: What r-value should i be looking for living in
Michigan? Is the foam
board a better option that the rolls in the
walls?

4) lastly would using
greenboard be a overkill or should i just use
regular drywall.

Thanks for any
help and advice,
Nate


Posted by jtees4 on August 4, 2006, 8:58 am
On Fri, 04 Aug 2006 12:38:36 GMT, no@spam.invalid (nateneu2424) wrote:

>Handy man in traing here. I have a few questions in regards to
>finishing a basement?
>
>1) metal vs wood studs. I've never had a problem with water in
>basement and was just wondering which would be the better option?
>
>2) How far off the cement walls typically are the studs placed to
>frame the walls?
>
>3) insulation: What r-value should i be looking for living in
>Michigan? Is the foam board a better option that the rolls in the
>walls?
>
>4) lastly would using greenboard be a overkill or should i just use
>regular drywall.
>
>Thanks for any help and advice,
>Nate

If the basement walls get VERY cold, as they might in Michigan, you
can have some discoloration show through the drywall if metal studs
are used. It usually shows up as blackish lines.This used to be a
problem, not sure if it is still true with newer materials.

Posted by bobmct on August 4, 2006, 9:47 pm
nateneu2424 wrote:

> Handy man in traing here. I have a few questions in regards to
> finishing a basement?
>
> 1) metal vs wood studs. I've never had a problem with water in
> basement and was just wondering which would be the better option?
>
> 2) How far off the cement walls typically are the studs placed to
> frame the walls?
>
> 3) insulation: What r-value should i be looking for living in
> Michigan? Is the foam board a better option that the rolls in the
> walls?
>
> 4) lastly would using greenboard be a overkill or should i just use
> regular drywall.
>
> Thanks for any help and advice,
> Nate

FWIW;

Having had my basement complete finished and buttoned up for some years not
where you are just planning, the one thing I "WISH" is had was access to
certain areas behind the walls. I've recently seen several TV ads for a
basement finishing system from (I think) Owens-Corning that includes
instructions, studs, vapor barrier, wall materials, fasteners, etc.

Might be worth looking at for your answers AND the wall panels are removable
after installation should that ever be necessary.

Good luck.


Posted by on August 4, 2006, 9:59 pm

1) metal vs wood studs. I've never had a problem with water in
basement and was just wondering which would be the better option?

Wood studs, 2x3 would be good. 2x4 if you got the room.
I would use pressure treated wood on the sill plates on the floor.
Ramset them right in.

2) How far off the cement walls typically are the studs placed to
frame the walls?

I would be AT LEAST 1" away from the outside wall. 2"
would be more comfortable.


3) insulation: What r-value should i be looking for living in
Michigan? Is the foam board a better option that the rolls in the
walls?

This depends too. I used r13 encapsulated insulation down
there. It basically provided me with sound and thermal insulation.
Worked out OK.

4) lastly would using greenboard be a overkill or should i just use
regular drywall.

Greenboard is good down there, especially on the lower half if you ever
had a flood. Otherwise regular is OK. I used allot of greenboard
because
at the time is was minimally more money. So I said why not. The only
spot
your not suppose to use it is on the ceiling (this was according to the
manufacturers info)

One thing to recommend is MAKE SURE that you do NOT have to put or do
any
additional work behind those walls. If there is plumbing or something
else behind those walls you need to make sure everything is tip top
shape before sealing it all up. Thats one of the downsides of drywall.
In my case most of my work was against blank concrete walls. Any
sort of access areas that I may need to go to I bought oak cabinet
doors off of ebay and make a frame. It came ok pretty good. I just
need to get my carpet guy in there soon to finish it up.

Tom


Posted by m Ransley on August 5, 2006, 7:46 am
You may not have water in the basement but your walls may get wet and
mold anyway when sealed, I put in remevable panels incase of future
issues. Steel has no insulating value, go wood. Foamboard blue or pink
is R5 per", Foilfaced polyisocyanurate is R 6.8", fiberglass batt is
only R3.5". Im just south of you and used 3" polyiso foamboard. You have
little room so foamboard makes a big difference in winter to keep out
the cold.


Page 1 of 2       1 2 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
finishing a basement: any thoughts on Owens-Corning or Total Basement Systems? April 25, 2008, 7:27 am
finishing my basement September 12, 2005, 3:43 pm
finishing basement January 31, 2007, 8:42 am
Help, finishing basement March 17, 2007, 9:32 pm
basement finishing August 11, 2007, 12:55 pm
basement finishing September 2, 2007, 2:06 pm
Question on Finishing a Basement October 2, 2006, 8:42 pm
Finishing a Basement: Question! November 9, 2005, 10:43 am
Basement finishing - What to do around HVAC? July 8, 2005, 12:49 pm
Basement finishing question January 3, 2006, 7:39 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap