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Firewood stacking Cshenk 11-07-2007
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Posted by Cshenk on November 7, 2007, 5:43 pm
Just an informative post. As we all come up on winter, some are getting a
load of firewood still and may be new homeowners who arent aware of some
issues.

More added for them will be nice!

1. Do not stack it against the house. The reasons vary but termites, bugs,
and damp-rot are the main ones.

2. If you have to stack it near a wood fence, provide about a 12 inch
free-zone between the fence and the wood stack (same issues as above)

3. By prefereance, stack it as far as you reasonably can from any wooden
barns and from your house. In a residential area with smal lots, this may
not be far, but try to get at least 20 feet from the house.

4. Raise the wood off the ground by 6 inches (more is fine). This can be
done very cheaply by making a cinderblock raised area for those metal frames
sold to keep wood, or can just be a long line of cinderblocks you stack the
wood on. In a long term place with a farm, you'll possibly want to pour a
cement bed for this.

Don and I just finished stacking 2 cords using a combination of the metal
frames on cinderblocks, and just cinderblocks (have to get more frames next
year). The frames let us get higher so save space, but the difference isnt
all that notable with a little practice.



Posted by Don Phillipson on November 7, 2007, 4:49 pm
> Just an informative post. As we all come up on winter, some are getting a
> load of firewood still and may be new homeowners who arent aware of some
> issues.
>
> More added for them will be nice!

Firewood stacks should be
1. Off the ground, so ground moisture cannot
migrate upwards into the timber. I use shipping
pallets, free at loading docks, which last 3 to 6
years on bare soil, much longer on rock or paving.
2. Covered overhead, so direct rain cannot
soak the firewood. Both sides should be left open
to sun and wind (the main agent in long-term
seasoning. Hardwood should be seasoned
(after splitting and stacking) for two years before
burning.)

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)



Posted by on November 7, 2007, 5:21 pm
> Just an informative post. As we all come up on winter, some are getting a
> load of firewood still and may be new homeowners who arent aware of some
> issues.
>
> More added for them will be nice!
>
> 1. Do not stack it against the house. The reasons vary but termites, bugs,
> and damp-rot are the main ones.
>
> 2. If you have to stack it near a wood fence, provide about a 12 inch
> free-zone between the fence and the wood stack (same issues as above)
>
> 3. By prefereance, stack it as far as you reasonably can from any wooden
> barns and from your house. In a residential area with smal lots, this may
> not be far, but try to get at least 20 feet from the house.
>
> 4. Raise the wood off the ground by 6 inches (more is fine). This can be
> done very cheaply by making a cinderblock raised area for those metal frames
> sold to keep wood, or can just be a long line of cinderblocks you stack the
> wood on. In a long term place with a farm, you'll possibly want to pour a
> cement bed for this.
>
> Don and I just finished stacking 2 cords using a combination of the metal
> frames on cinderblocks, and just cinderblocks (have to get more frames next
> year). The frames let us get higher so save space, but the difference isnt
> all that notable with a little practice.

Build a decent wood shed to hold 5-6 cords of wood. Have windows on
all 4 sides to ensure good cross ventilation regardless of what way
the wind blows. I built mine to hold that amount as it's what I burn
per season. No worries about rain / snow - just keep a good path
shovelled. Train your kids to bring in an armful each day and add to
the indoor stack. Teach your eldest how to light a proper fire.
Outside wood storage is a pain in the ass. Firewood racks, tarps and
the mess thats comes with it. Wood shed storage with good ventilation
has always provided me with good / dry firewood. My neighbour converts
his green house into a wood storage shed each fall. It's like a
friggin kiln.

Keep 1/4 cord of dry wood in the house. Nothing kills a fire or
promotes chimmney problems than tossing cold / frozen wood on the
fire.

Always try and keep a year ahead of your fire wood (specially
hardwood). I'm ordering next years wood this week.



Posted by Cshenk on November 7, 2007, 8:48 pm

>> Just an informative post. As we all come up on winter, some are getting
>> a
>> load of firewood still and may be new homeowners who arent aware of some
>> issues.
>>
>> More added for them will be nice!
>>
> Build a decent wood shed to hold 5-6 cords of wood. Have windows on
> all 4 sides to ensure good cross ventilation regardless of what way
> the wind blows. I built mine to hold that amount as it's what I burn

That would be great but I lack the space. I see another mentioned at least
a roof' of sorts. I do not have one. What we do is bring in several
wheelbarrows worth into the garage when it gets freezing and let it thaw out
there. Not a warm place, but above freezing. Sae idea before rain, we
bring some in to keep it well dry.

> per season. No worries about rain / snow - just keep a good path
> shovelled. Train your kids to bring in an armful each day and add to
> the indoor stack. Teach your eldest how to light a proper fire.
> Outside wood storage is a pain in the ass. Firewood racks, tarps and
> the mess thats comes with it. Wood shed storage with good ventilation
> has always provided me with good / dry firewood. My neighbour converts
> his green house into a wood storage shed each fall. It's like a
> friggin kiln.

Grin, well, our needs are less than yours.

> Keep 1/4 cord of dry wood in the house. Nothing kills a fire or
> promotes chimmney problems than tossing cold / frozen wood on the
> fire.

Chimney problems? I was not aware of any, just that wet wood is hard to burn
and smokey. Maybe smokey buildup? We have our fireplace professionally
cleaned annually. It's actually amlnost free as the recipt the the
homeowners insurance folks takes money off our insurance.

> Always try and keep a year ahead of your fire wood (specially
> hardwood). I'm ordering next years wood this week.

Good advice. We got 2 cords but probably will have 1 left. What it does is
augment the heating as the fireplace isnt big enough for the 4 BR house. It
does however dramatically lower the bill (we tested this, and it works). We
get (and pay extra) for seasoned firewood. Split the year before.

Hey, since you burn lots, a question? What do you think of the 199$ Cummins
wood splitter? Would it work when our wood is pre-split but some of the
logs are a bit big for the fireplace?



Posted by on November 7, 2007, 6:20 pm
> >> Just an informative post. As we all come up on winter, some are getting
> >> a
> >> load of firewood still and may be new homeowners who arent aware of some
> >> issues.
>
> >> More added for them will be nice!
>
> > Build a decent wood shed to hold 5-6 cords of wood. Have windows on
> > all 4 sides to ensure good cross ventilation regardless of what way
> > the wind blows. I built mine to hold that amount as it's what I burn
>
> That would be great but I lack the space. I see another mentioned at least
> a roof' of sorts. I do not have one. What we do is bring in several
> wheelbarrows worth into the garage when it gets freezing and let it thaw out
> there. Not a warm place, but above freezing. Sae idea before rain, we
> bring some in to keep it well dry.
>
> > per season. No worries about rain / snow - just keep a good path
> > shovelled. Train your kids to bring in an armful each day and add to
> > the indoor stack. Teach your eldest how to light a proper fire.
> > Outside wood storage is a pain in the ass. Firewood racks, tarps and
> > the mess thats comes with it. Wood shed storage with good ventilation
> > has always provided me with good / dry firewood. My neighbour converts
> > his green house into a wood storage shed each fall. It's like a
> > friggin kiln.
>
> Grin, well, our needs are less than yours.
>
> > Keep 1/4 cord of dry wood in the house. Nothing kills a fire or
> > promotes chimmney problems than tossing cold / frozen wood on the
> > fire.
>
> Chimney problems? I was not aware of any, just that wet wood is hard to burn
> and smokey. Maybe smokey buildup? We have our fireplace professionally
> cleaned annually. It's actually amlnost free as the recipt the the
> homeowners insurance folks takes money off our insurance.
>
> > Always try and keep a year ahead of your fire wood (specially
> > hardwood). I'm ordering next years wood this week.
>
> Good advice. We got 2 cords but probably will have 1 left. What it does is
> augment the heating as the fireplace isnt big enough for the 4 BR house. It
> does however dramatically lower the bill (we tested this, and it works). We
> get (and pay extra) for seasoned firewood. Split the year before.
>
> Hey, since you burn lots, a question? What do you think of the 199$ Cummins
> wood splitter? Would it work when our wood is pre-split but some of the
> logs are a bit big for the fireplace?

I've not heard of it. My neighbour purchased a Pow r Kraft from direct
tools. Plugs into a standard outlet and has 4 tons splitting power.
Think he paid 200.00 for it and has a 2 year warranty. Can do up to 10
inches hardwood / 12 inches soft wood diameter. An option for you and
your pal (given the 1-2 cord limit) would be to rent one for a
weekend. I order mine mostly pre split ( I'm 72 yrs old and find it
hard). Many folks around here rent them. I leave 20% of the wood
unsplit. When dry it's much better for the long overnight burns when
I've hit the hay.

When I was younger we used to nail 2 old tires (stacked) on a hardwood
junk. We would place 5-6 junks in it and wack away until they were all
split. The tire kept the wood from flying about and the rubber
protected the axe edge. It worked very well and saved my time and my
back. Cover it in a tarp when not in use lest the tire fills with
water during rain. Wood splitting is generally lonely work.


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