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Fishing Wires In 100 Year Old House

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Fishing Wires In 100 Year Old House HerHusband 05-27-2006
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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on May 27, 2006, 1:02 pm
Greenlee makes those 6 foot long bits that fit in a standard electric
drill, plus they sell extensions for greater length. The bit has a hole
in the business end, drill thru, attach wire and pull bit back
retrieving wire too.

I once went thru about 12 feet into a closed space above cabinets.

they work great


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Posted by HerHusband on May 27, 2006, 1:37 pm
> Greenlee makes those 6 foot long bits that fit in a standard electric
> drill, plus they sell extensions for greater length. The bit has a hole
> in the business end, drill thru, attach wire and pull bit back
> retrieving wire too.

Thanks! I was wondering if they had extensions or not. A bit and an
extension would probably let me reach from the attic down to the basement.
I'll have to see what is available on my next trip to the store.

Anthony

Posted by mm on May 27, 2006, 8:45 pm
wrote:

>> Greenlee makes those 6 foot long bits that fit in a standard electric
>> drill, plus they sell extensions for greater length. The bit has a hole
>> in the business end, drill thru, attach wire and pull bit back
>> retrieving wire too.
>
>Thanks! I was wondering if they had extensions or not. A bit and an

The extensions are the same 1 foot extensions that work with spade
bits, etc.

>extension would probably let me reach from the attic down to the basement.
>I'll have to see what is available on my next trip to the store.

Not only are they six feet long, they are flexible. there is also a
tool that goes into the wall to help you point the bit the way you
want it to go. It has never been useful to me. The times I've tried
it, I've found it not very good.

There might be long drill bits that are stiff. I haven't seen them.
It would have helped me in a situation something like yours. I was
in the attic lying on my belly, with my arm into the stack around the
heating ducts (new house) and with my arm and an extension I could
reach the middle of the stack where there was a sheet of plywood, a
fire stop I guess. Because the bit was flexible, and dull from use,
it was hard to drill the hole, but eventually I got it through.

But flexibility has other advantages, like the ability to start
through a hole in the sheetrock and drill down to the basement.

Or the ability to start in the basement, and go in a bit above the
foundation, then up the wall.

I did this once, aiming for just to the left of the hall and front
door light switches. Unforunately it's very hard to control direction
from there, so I drilled into the bottom of the platic box, and ripped
the wire out of one of the toggle switches. Heh, double insulated
drills are great to have. The whole basement went dark when I blew
the breaker in the hall. But the second time I tried, I hit the
right spot, for my burlgar alarm touch-pad to panel wires.

(I couldn't have drilled this hole down from a hole in the sheerock,
because the new hole for the touchpad was going to be right above the
lightswitches, and I didn't want to take the lightswitches and their
box out.) If it had been someone else's house, maybe I would have
done things differently, but I don't know how.)
>
>Anthony


Posted by HerHusband on May 27, 2006, 1:35 pm
Doug,

> Put the conduit in one of the *front* corners of the closet. Nobody
> will ever know it's there -- who goes into a closet and then turns
> around to look at the door?

That's kind of what I was thinking. Easy to install, and basically out of
sight.

> you could build an actual chase with studs and drywall.

Inside the wall is my first choice, the conduit my second, and building a
chase in the closet was my third backup plan.

Unless the first two options don't work out for some reason, I'd rather
avoid having to do any sheetrock, taping, painting, etc. I have enough work
to do already. :)

By the way, my in-laws currently have one or two electrical outlets per
room mounted in the 8" high baseboard. I'm planning on adding a few more.
Are there any codes that would prevent me from locating additional outlets
in the baseboard? I'm concerned that trying to cut holes for outlets in the
plaster/lath would turn into a big mess of crumbling plaster. Cutting holes
in the wood baseboard would be a lot less destructive, and simplify access
from the basement.

Anthony





Posted by Doug Miller on May 27, 2006, 4:31 pm
>Doug,
>
>> Put the conduit in one of the *front* corners of the closet. Nobody
>> will ever know it's there -- who goes into a closet and then turns
>> around to look at the door?
>
>That's kind of what I was thinking. Easy to install, and basically out of
>sight.
>
>> you could build an actual chase with studs and drywall.
>
>Inside the wall is my first choice, the conduit my second, and building a
>chase in the closet was my third backup plan.

Esthetically speaking, inside the wall would be my first choice too, but as a
practical matter the conduit-in-the-closet wins out IMO.
>
>Unless the first two options don't work out for some reason, I'd rather
>avoid having to do any sheetrock, taping, painting, etc. I have enough work
>to do already. :)

I hear that!!
>
>By the way, my in-laws currently have one or two electrical outlets per
>room mounted in the 8" high baseboard. I'm planning on adding a few more.
>Are there any codes that would prevent me from locating additional outlets
>in the baseboard?

Nothing in the National Electrical Code that I'm aware of. You might want to
check with a local code inspector to see if there are any local restrictions,
though.

>I'm concerned that trying to cut holes for outlets in the
>plaster/lath would turn into a big mess of crumbling plaster.

Depends on how you do it. My preferred method is to mark the outline of the
opening and score it with a cold chisel (using light taps). If you're careful,
you can get a pretty clean cut through the whitecoat (finish plaster). Then,
using firmer blows with the hammer, chisel through the browncoat too. Remove
the plaster in chunks. Then use a *sharp* hand saw to cut through the lath. No
power tools -- too much vibration and dust.

Of course, this method also depends on having pretty solid, strong plaster. If
your plaster is weak, then just about anything you do is going to turn it into
a crumbling mess.

>Cutting holes
>in the wood baseboard would be a lot less destructive, and simplify access
>from the basement.

May be more difficult to cut, though: you have to go through 3/4" of wood
*and* the plaster and lath, instead of only the plaster and lath.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

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