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Fix pipe leak (copper) picture attached

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Fix pipe leak (copper) picture attached venkatesan.ramkumar 04-14-2007
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Posted by on April 14, 2007, 2:45 am


Hi,
I have been to trying to fix a leak in the copper pipe by the usual
procedure (i.e. soldering) and I am unsucessful in the process.

After I am done (at least I think it is fixed), the water starts
leaking again from the same. Are there any different ways of doing it.

To see the photo of my link please visit


http://picasaweb.google.com/venkatesan.ramkumar/Plumbing


Posted by marson on April 14, 2007, 8:01 am


On Apr 14, 1:45 am, venkatesan.ramku...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi,
> I have been to trying to fix a leak in the copper pipe by the usual
> procedure (i.e. soldering) and I am unsucessful in the process.
>
> After I am done (at least I think it is fixed), the water starts
> leaking again from the same. Are there any different ways of doing it.
>
> To see the photo of my link please visit
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/venkatesan.ramkumar/Plumbing

Either the copper wasn't cleaned properly, wasn't fluxed properly, or
didn't get hot enough to sweat. My guess is that you still had water
in the line which prevented the joint from getting hot enough to
sweat.


Posted by DanG on April 14, 2007, 8:12 am


I can't really tell what the fitting or the problem is from the
photo. It looks as if it may be in a solar heater. The solder
looks to be gobbed on the outside of the pipe cap, not drawn into
the joint. The drop tube that was capped was probably silver
soldered to the main tube. Is it the cap that is leaking or the
down tube joint?

Sometimes things get so crudded up, it is beneficial to just
replace a section of pipe and get back to some native pipe in good
shape. The rust and dirt pattern almost look like the main pipe
or down tube joint is leaking. The joint needs to be hot enough
to draw solder into the joint, not lay on the outside. Have you
ever removed the cap completely? If you can remove the cap and
you can see where either the cap or the pipe is not fully tinned.
If they are completely tinned and properly heated, they will seal
as long as there is ABSOLUTELY no water making steam in the joint
area. If you can't remove the cap, there is a chance it was
silver soldered, a totally different process that requires a
totally different solution.

It looks as if the clearances are extremely tight. I would try to
get the incoming large pipe cut loose, enlarge the entry hole at
the frame to see about getting a bit of wiggle room at the top of
the frame. If you could get the main tube cleaned up and cut, you
could bring in a fresh piece of pipe with a coupling and eliminate
the by-passed tube. I don't think you will ever get enough
clearance to use a tubing cutter, think jig saw or Dremel. Once
soldered in, waterproofing the enlarged hole in the frame should
be fairly easy.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net



> Hi,
> I have been to trying to fix a leak in the copper pipe by the
> usual
> procedure (i.e. soldering) and I am unsucessful in the process.
>
> After I am done (at least I think it is fixed), the water starts
> leaking again from the same. Are there any different ways of
> doing it.
>
> To see the photo of my link please visit
>
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/venkatesan.ramkumar/Plumbing
>



Posted by Sacramento Dave on April 14, 2007, 9:56 am



> Hi,
> I have been to trying to fix a leak in the copper pipe by the usual
> procedure (i.e. soldering) and I am unsucessful in the process.
>
> After I am done (at least I think it is fixed), the water starts
> leaking again from the same. Are there any different ways of doing it.
>
> To see the photo of my link please visit
>
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/venkatesan.ramkumar/Plumbing
>

If that's a Solar panel sitting on a roof and the capped T is on the high
side it has to have water sitting in it. Either way you need to pull the
cap, don't even bother cleaning it buy a new one. If you cant get it off you
might have to drill a hole in it ( 3/16 ) and drain it. If there is any
water in it it wont come off . You may still not be able to remove the cap
, You might have to peal it off or leave and Sill- Floss it ( Braze ) at
this point you might consider calling a plumber it might save you some
frustration.



Posted by Sacramento Dave on April 14, 2007, 8:32 pm



> On 13 Apr 2007 23:45:16 -0700, venkatesan.ramkumar@gmail.com wrote:
>
>>Hi,
>>I have been to trying to fix a leak in the copper pipe by the usual
>>procedure (i.e. soldering) and I am unsucessful in the process.
>>
>>After I am done (at least I think it is fixed), the water starts
>>leaking again from the same. Are there any different ways of doing it.
>>
>>To see the photo of my link please visit
>>
>>
>>http://picasaweb.google.com/venkatesan.ramkumar/Plumbing
>
> You need more heat. Are you using mapp gas with a good torch? Does
> it get it cherry red all around?
>
> More heat after a good cleaning and fluxing.


I hope your talking about brazing



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