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Posted by ConnetiCat on May 31, 2008, 1:17 pm
Replacing the hot water heater...are flexible connectors any good, and
if so which are the best? The EPA recommends a "heat trap" for in and
out going water; a flexible connector, basically, with a u-bend. Is
this a good idea? The local plumbing supply store guys scoff at
anything but sweat fitting and straight copper pipes. Also, how would
I know there's any problems with water pressure? About nine years
ago, I was talked into installing a pressure regulator, and I've had
nothing but trouble since. I don't have overly high (city) water
pressure; never had trouble before with anything. The house was built
in 1989. Why shouldn't I just take it out, and that way I don't have
to install an expansion tank? Any ideas, Joe?
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Posted by HeyBub on May 31, 2008, 3:20 pm
ConnetiCat wrote:
> Replacing the hot water heater...are flexible connectors any good, and
> if so which are the best?
Sure, they're good. They make for very easy installation.
> The EPA recommends a "heat trap" for in and
> out going water; a flexible connector, basically, with a u-bend. Is
> this a good idea? The local plumbing supply store guys scoff at
> anything but sweat fitting and straight copper pipes. Also, how would
> I know there's any problems with water pressure? About nine years
> ago, I was talked into installing a pressure regulator, and I've had
> nothing but trouble since. I don't have overly high (city) water
> pressure; never had trouble before with anything. The house was built
> in 1989. Why shouldn't I just take it out, and that way I don't have
> to install an expansion tank? Any ideas, Joe?
Hmm. I though heat traps were valves to prevent convection losses. Sorry,
though, I don't have any information on them.
Why would you care if there's a problem with the water pressure? There's
nothing you can do about it.
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Posted by Rick-Meister on May 31, 2008, 3:56 pm
Flexible connectors to water heater are usually only allowed in
earthquake zones. Check with your local building inspectors to see if
they'll allow them. If they do, you want the corrugated copper lines,
not the rubber/stainless steel variety.
If you've had trouble with high water pressure, it's a real good idea
to install an expansion tank on the cold side of the water heater. In
fact, they're always a good idea since they cut down on stress to the
sides of the tank.
As for heat traps, check with the new water heater. Most models
include them from the factory. That's how they can squeak out a higher
efficiency rating.
>Replacing the hot water heater...are flexible connectors any good, and
>if so which are the best? The EPA recommends a "heat trap" for in and
>out going water; a flexible connector, basically, with a u-bend. Is
>this a good idea? The local plumbing supply store guys scoff at
>anything but sweat fitting and straight copper pipes. Also, how would
>I know there's any problems with water pressure? About nine years
>ago, I was talked into installing a pressure regulator, and I've had
>nothing but trouble since. I don't have overly high (city) water
>pressure; never had trouble before with anything. The house was built
>in 1989. Why shouldn't I just take it out, and that way I don't have
>to install an expansion tank? Any ideas, Joe?
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Posted by Bob M. on May 31, 2008, 8:34 pm
> Replacing the hot water heater...are flexible connectors any good, and
> if so which are the best?
No idea, but I used screw-on flex connectors and they work fine. Make sure
they have a plastic liner in them (it's part of the unit), this prevents the
steel tank from contacting the brass or copper of the flex connector. Same
function as a dielectric union. I used the screw-on kind, just sweated some
threaded fittings on to the copper pipe. This way I don't need the torch
when it comes time to replace the heater.
> The EPA recommends a "heat trap" for in and
> out going water; a flexible connector, basically, with a u-bend. Is
> this a good idea?
Yes, my heater doesn't seem to fire as often because the hot water stays in
the tank. Traps also make insulated pipes pretty much unnecessary. But if
you try & bend these "flexible" connectors, you will soon find out they are
not very flexible. I soldered some copper pipe in a loop for this purpose,
then used the flex connectors to hook up to the heater.
> About nine years
> ago, I was talked into installing a pressure regulator, and I've had
> nothing but trouble since. I don't have overly high (city) water
> pressure; never had trouble before with anything. The house was built
> in 1989. Why shouldn't I just take it out, and that way I don't have
> to install an expansion tank? Any ideas, Joe?
Maybe the pressure regulating valve is not adjusted right. 50-75 psi at a
faucet is the range I was told. Get a pressure gauge at the local hardware
store.
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Posted by S. Barker on May 31, 2008, 11:33 pm
i've never seen any flex tubes that don't have a sever restriction in them.
I go straight in with male adaptors. Perhaps a union if you want to get
fancy.
s
> Replacing the hot water heater...are flexible connectors any good, and
> if so which are the best? The EPA recommends a "heat trap" for in and
> out going water; a flexible connector, basically, with a u-bend. Is
> this a good idea? The local plumbing supply store guys scoff at
> anything but sweat fitting and straight copper pipes. Also, how would
> I know there's any problems with water pressure? About nine years
> ago, I was talked into installing a pressure regulator, and I've had
> nothing but trouble since. I don't have overly high (city) water
> pressure; never had trouble before with anything. The house was built
> in 1989. Why shouldn't I just take it out, and that way I don't have
> to install an expansion tank? Any ideas, Joe?
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