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Fluorescent lighting problem . . . Ray 04-06-2008
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Posted by Ray on April 6, 2008, 2:42 pm
Our kitchen has three under-the-cabinet flourescent lights. Suddenly two out
of the three tubes won't come on.

The one nearest the switch still comes on, but not the next two.

It's not the tubes, because I tested all three in the one that works, and
they all come on.

Sometime ago I noticed a very slight, intermittent popping noise -- almost
like a water-drip -- in the area of the second on the line.

I notice that when I take the tubes out of the non-functioning holders, the
ends of the tubes are quite warm.

I've tested all circuit-breakers.

Any guidance appreciated.




Posted by RBM on April 6, 2008, 3:22 pm

> Our kitchen has three under-the-cabinet flourescent lights. Suddenly two
> out of the three tubes won't come on.
>
> The one nearest the switch still comes on, but not the next two.
>
> It's not the tubes, because I tested all three in the one that works, and
> they all come on.
>
> Sometime ago I noticed a very slight, intermittent popping noise -- almost
> like a water-drip -- in the area of the second on the line.
>
> I notice that when I take the tubes out of the non-functioning holders,
> the ends of the tubes are quite warm.
>
> I've tested all circuit-breakers.
>
> Any guidance appreciated.

First check the power and ground connections. Next try new lamps, as they
get older they're more dificult to light.The fact that they work in the one
fixture means little. Next, you could replaced the ballast transformers,
but I'd sooner replace the fixtures, preferably with Xenon
>
>
>



Posted by EXT on April 6, 2008, 3:36 pm

>
>> Our kitchen has three under-the-cabinet flourescent lights. Suddenly two
>> out of the three tubes won't come on.
>>
>> The one nearest the switch still comes on, but not the next two.
>>
>> It's not the tubes, because I tested all three in the one that works, and
>> they all come on.
>>
>> Sometime ago I noticed a very slight, intermittent popping noise --
>> almost like a water-drip -- in the area of the second on the line.
>>
>> I notice that when I take the tubes out of the non-functioning holders,
>> the ends of the tubes are quite warm.
>>
>> I've tested all circuit-breakers.
>>
>> Any guidance appreciated.
>
> First check the power and ground connections. Next try new lamps, as they
> get older they're more dificult to light.The fact that they work in the
> one fixture means little. Next, you could replaced the ballast
> transformers, but I'd sooner replace the fixtures, preferably with Xenon

Are these fixtures the old fashioned type (I still see them for sale) that
use a "starter" can, this is a small aluminum can shaped item that twists
into a socket on the side of the fixture or under the bulb. The clue is the
warm ends of the tubes. A starter can that has failed, will keep the ends
glowing but will fail to light the tubes. If this fixture uses starter cans,
buy replacement starters rated for the bulb wattage and replace the
defective ones. They just remove with quarter turn to the left and a pull.
Alternatively is to replace the fixtures with something different.



Posted by Don Klipstein on April 6, 2008, 11:23 pm
>
>>
>>> Our kitchen has three under-the-cabinet flourescent lights. Suddenly two
>>> out of the three tubes won't come on.
>>>
>>> The one nearest the switch still comes on, but not the next two.
>>>
>>> It's not the tubes, because I tested all three in the one that works, and
>>> they all come on.
>>>
>>> Sometime ago I noticed a very slight, intermittent popping noise --
>>> almost like a water-drip -- in the area of the second on the line.
>>>
>>> I notice that when I take the tubes out of the non-functioning holders,
>>> the ends of the tubes are quite warm.
>>>
>>> I've tested all circuit-breakers.
>>>
>>> Any guidance appreciated.
>>
>> First check the power and ground connections. Next try new lamps, as they
>> get older they're more dificult to light.The fact that they work in the
>> one fixture means little. Next, you could replaced the ballast
>> transformers, but I'd sooner replace the fixtures, preferably with Xenon
>
>Are these fixtures the old fashioned type (I still see them for sale) that
>use a "starter" can, this is a small aluminum can shaped item that twists
>into a socket on the side of the fixture or under the bulb. The clue is the
>warm ends of the tubes. A starter can that has failed, will keep the ends
>glowing but will fail to light the tubes. If this fixture uses starter cans,
>buy replacement starters rated for the bulb wattage and replace the
>defective ones. They just remove with quarter turn to the left and a pull.
>Alternatively is to replace the fixtures with something different.

Keep in mind that bad bulbs are hard on starters, and bad starters are
hard on bulbs. You may have to replace both nearly simultaneously.

You only have to remove one item (bulb or starter) to stop the
malfunction-related-stress on the other item.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

Posted by Don Klipstein on April 6, 2008, 11:21 pm
>
>First check the power and ground connections. Next try new lamps, as they
>get older they're more dificult to light.The fact that they work in the one
>fixture means little. Next, you could replaced the ballast transformers,
>but I'd sooner replace the fixtures, preferably with Xenon

Xenon undercabinet fixtures are merely improved incandescent ones.
(Actually the light sources ahve this improvement.) Energy efficiency of
xenon incandescent is a couple notches above that of conventional
incandescent of same voltage, wattage and life expectancy - still a
fraction of that of good fluorescent fixtures.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

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