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Posted by tbasc@bellsouth.net on July 25, 2007, 7:01 am
Ivan Vegvary wrote:
> I'm replacing foundation plates and rim joists on the house. The dry rot is
> so bad that I can use my bench brush to sweep out the lumber.
>
> I need to replace about 40 lineal feet. I'm jacking up the house (about an
> inch) from the outside (siding already removed), pulling out the rotten
> material and replacing it with pressure treated 2x6 lumber. I cannot
> install foundation bolts on the plates, nor were there any in the first
> place.
>
> Seems like my only choice would be to get some earthquake straps, drill and
> bolt the straps vertically to connect the foundation and one of the studs.
> Repeat every 4 feet.
>
> BTW, this is not high earthquake country.
>
> Anybody have a better idea.
>
> Thanks,
> Ivan Vegvary
Simpson Strong Tie web site, among others, has what Chris suggests.
T
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Posted by Vic Dura on July 25, 2007, 7:37 am
wrote Re Foundation bolts:
>Anybody have a better idea.
A good quality construction adhesive liberally applied?
--
To email me directly, remove CLUTTER.
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Posted by Heathcliff on July 25, 2007, 1:36 pm
> I'm replacing foundation plates and rim joists on the house. The dry rot is
> so bad that I can use my bench brush to sweep out the lumber.
>
> I need to replace about 40 lineal feet. I'm jacking up the house (about an
> inch) from the outside (siding already removed), pulling out the rotten
> material and replacing it with pressure treated 2x6 lumber. I cannot
> install foundation bolts on the plates, nor were there any in the first
> place.
>
> Seems like my only choice would be to get some earthquake straps, drill and
> bolt the straps vertically to connect the foundation and one of the studs.
> Repeat every 4 feet.
>
> BTW, this is not high earthquake country.
>
> Anybody have a better idea.
>
> Thanks,
> Ivan Vegvary
Having the house bolted to the foundation is not just for earthquakes,
but also for any high-wind situation -- does your area have
hurricanes, tornadoes, or severe thunderstorms? I have seen slides of
a house shifted off its foundation by winds of no more than 65 mph.
For that matter, it might help in other situations too, like if a car
hits the house. I would favor bolts epoxied in. You might be able to
rent an angle drill to drill downwards through the sill plate into the
foundation to install them.
-- H
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Posted by Steve Barker on July 25, 2007, 2:12 pm
If it never had any, why worry about it? Most houses I've ever seen don't
have the nuts installed on the bolts anyway.
--
Steve Barker
> I'm replacing foundation plates and rim joists on the house. The dry rot
> is so bad that I can use my bench brush to sweep out the lumber.
>
> I need to replace about 40 lineal feet. I'm jacking up the house (about
> an inch) from the outside (siding already removed), pulling out the rotten
> material and replacing it with pressure treated 2x6 lumber. I cannot
> install foundation bolts on the plates, nor were there any in the first
> place.
>
> Seems like my only choice would be to get some earthquake straps, drill
> and bolt the straps vertically to connect the foundation and one of the
> studs. Repeat every 4 feet.
>
> BTW, this is not high earthquake country.
>
> Anybody have a better idea.
>
> Thanks,
> Ivan Vegvary
>
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Posted by aemeijers on July 25, 2007, 6:28 pm
> If it never had any, why worry about it? Most houses I've ever seen don't
> have the nuts installed on the bolts anyway.
>
Chuckle. Seen (or not seen?) that a lot myself. If the framing crew gets
ahead of the kid assigned shit duties like that, and the floor gets decked
over before anyone notices, it tends to fall through the cracks. And if the
J-bolts are rusty, crusted with concrete, or at a bad angle, or too short,
and the kid isn't a go-getter....
(My old man was the GC or strawboss, so I pulled a lot of punch list duty as
a kid. Putting those washers and nuts on from below, and getting a socket
wrench on them, was often a lot of fun, especially in crawlspaces.)
aem sends....
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