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Foundation repair Ivan Vegvary 07-18-2006
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Posted by Ivan Vegvary on July 18, 2006, 2:28 pm
Need to replace some perimiter foundations in my home. Dug down to hard
pan, placed rebar into spread footing and spaced verticals so as to use
concrete block for the stem walls. Approx. 3-4 feet high.

QUESTION: Anybody have suggestions on how to finish off the top course of
block? Do I pour concrete through a small gap (between the new block and
the old 2x6 plates)? Then do I shim with pressure treated wood, or form the
last small gap and pour non-shrink grout?
I'm sure some of you have done this. Please advise as to what is easiest.

BTW, my existing plates (double 2x6) are in excellent shape. No bolts were
used so I would like to drill up into the plates and hang bolts before I
pour concrete. I also need to level out the house. It goes up and down
about 2 inches, which is why I am replacing the foundation in the first
place

All replies appreciated.

Ivan Vegvary



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Posted by Pete C. on July 18, 2006, 2:40 pm
Ivan Vegvary wrote:
>
> Need to replace some perimiter foundations in my home. Dug down to hard
> pan, placed rebar into spread footing and spaced verticals so as to use
> concrete block for the stem walls. Approx. 3-4 feet high.
>
> QUESTION: Anybody have suggestions on how to finish off the top course of
> block? Do I pour concrete through a small gap (between the new block and
> the old 2x6 plates)? Then do I shim with pressure treated wood, or form the
> last small gap and pour non-shrink grout?
> I'm sure some of you have done this. Please advise as to what is easiest.
>
> BTW, my existing plates (double 2x6) are in excellent shape. No bolts were
> used so I would like to drill up into the plates and hang bolts before I
> pour concrete. I also need to level out the house. It goes up and down
> about 2 inches, which is why I am replacing the foundation in the first
> place
>
> All replies appreciated.
>
> Ivan Vegvary

I would think you would want to jack the house up in the area so the
sill plate is a bit above the expected final height, perhaps 1". Set the
anchor bolts in place through the holes in the sill suspended by the
nuts and washers accounting for the gap you will close up later. Pour
the cement / grout to finish off the top bond beam course and
appropriate finish height, presumably using a small form if needed. When
everything has cured properly lower the house and sill down to final
height and tighten the anchor bolts. Of course use all appropriate
precautions when jacking and cribbing, etc.

Pete C.

Posted by Ivan Vegvary on July 18, 2006, 4:45 pm

> Ivan Vegvary wrote:
>>
>> Need to replace some perimiter foundations in my home. Dug down to hard
>> pan, placed rebar into spread footing and spaced verticals so as to use
>> concrete block for the stem walls. Approx. 3-4 feet high.
>>
>> QUESTION: Anybody have suggestions on how to finish off the top course
>> of
>> block? Do I pour concrete through a small gap (between the new block and
>> the old 2x6 plates)? Then do I shim with pressure treated wood, or form
>> the
>> last small gap and pour non-shrink grout?
>> I'm sure some of you have done this. Please advise as to what is
>> easiest.
>>
>> BTW, my existing plates (double 2x6) are in excellent shape. No bolts
>> were
>> used so I would like to drill up into the plates and hang bolts before I
>> pour concrete. I also need to level out the house. It goes up and down
>> about 2 inches, which is why I am replacing the foundation in the first
>> place
>>
>> All replies appreciated.
>>
>> Ivan Vegvary
>
> I would think you would want to jack the house up in the area so the
> sill plate is a bit above the expected final height, perhaps 1". Set the
> anchor bolts in place through the holes in the sill suspended by the
> nuts and washers accounting for the gap you will close up later. Pour
> the cement / grout to finish off the top bond beam course and
> appropriate finish height, presumably using a small form if needed. When
> everything has cured properly lower the house and sill down to final
> height and tighten the anchor bolts. Of course use all appropriate
> precautions when jacking and cribbing, etc.
>
> Pete C.
Thanks Pete!!
I do need to raise the house about 1 to 3 inches. So, yes, I will raise an
extra inch and pour some non-shrink grout.
We'll see if other solutions are forthcoming?
Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary



Posted by Jim Elbrecht on July 19, 2006, 9:09 am
-snip-
>BTW, my existing plates (double 2x6) are in excellent shape. No bolts were
>used so I would like to drill up into the plates and hang bolts before I
>pour concrete. I also need to level out the house. It goes up and down
>about 2 inches, which is why I am replacing the foundation in the first
>place

I'd want to add another [treated] 2x6- but it is your choice. If
you're in a dry area that doesn't have termites, then it probably
isn't a big deal. I'd still at least treat the parts of the sill
that you'll [hopefully] never see again.

Here's how I did mine a couple years ago. This old house managed to
lose 25' of foundation [100 yr old dry stone] on one wall- and 20 feet
on the adjacent wall. The corner held, and we managed to replace
the walls without even cracking sheetrock upstairs.

Cribbed the crap out of it immediately.
Replaced sill & drilled holes for 'L' bolts.
Replaced cribbing with a solid steel post every 10'- Post gets buried
in wall- and has its own footing that goes below wall footing so the
final footing is an uninterrupted, reinforced unit.

Level house to its final elevation.
Insert L- bolts in holes.
Ran wall to within block height plus 1/2".
I used bond beam block for final course. [block with one side solid so
you can fill it with concrete] Using wedges to force it tight against
sill, I placed block- then used a 'pastry bag' to fill gap with
mortar. Removed wedges an hour or two later- and filled gaps left by
them.
Filled top of bond beam blocks.
Snugged up bolts next week.

I used 10 inch block & set the wall deep enough to allow for 2"
insulation and a parge coat on outside- so I had room to get a 3lb
coffee can up there to fill the blocks with concrete.

Good luck-- this isn't the most fun I ever had, but the end result was
gratifying.

Jim

Posted by Pete C. on July 19, 2006, 1:20 pm
Jim Elbrecht wrote:
>
> -snip-
> >BTW, my existing plates (double 2x6) are in excellent shape. No bolts were
> >used so I would like to drill up into the plates and hang bolts before I
> >pour concrete. I also need to level out the house. It goes up and down
> >about 2 inches, which is why I am replacing the foundation in the first
> >place
>
> I'd want to add another [treated] 2x6- but it is your choice. If
> you're in a dry area that doesn't have termites, then it probably
> isn't a big deal. I'd still at least treat the parts of the sill
> that you'll [hopefully] never see again.
>
> Here's how I did mine a couple years ago. This old house managed to
> lose 25' of foundation [100 yr old dry stone] on one wall- and 20 feet
> on the adjacent wall. The corner held, and we managed to replace
> the walls without even cracking sheetrock upstairs.
>
> Cribbed the crap out of it immediately.
> Replaced sill & drilled holes for 'L' bolts.
> Replaced cribbing with a solid steel post every 10'- Post gets buried
> in wall- and has its own footing that goes below wall footing so the
> final footing is an uninterrupted, reinforced unit.
>
> Level house to its final elevation.
> Insert L- bolts in holes.
> Ran wall to within block height plus 1/2".
> I used bond beam block for final course. [block with one side solid so
> you can fill it with concrete] Using wedges to force it tight against
> sill, I placed block- then used a 'pastry bag' to fill gap with
> mortar. Removed wedges an hour or two later- and filled gaps left by
> them.
> Filled top of bond beam blocks.
> Snugged up bolts next week.
>
> I used 10 inch block & set the wall deep enough to allow for 2"
> insulation and a parge coat on outside- so I had room to get a 3lb
> coffee can up there to fill the blocks with concrete.
>
> Good luck-- this isn't the most fun I ever had, but the end result was
> gratifying.
>
> Jim

Well, that sounds like... er... "fun"...

Did you run out of expletives while doing the work?

Pete C.

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