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Subject Author Date
Foundation repair Ivan Vegvary 07-18-2006
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Posted by Ivan Vegvary on July 20, 2006, 12:31 pm

> Ivan Vegvary wrote:
>>
>> > -snip-
>> >>BTW, my existing plates (double 2x6) are in excellent shape. No bolts
>> >>were
>> >>used so I would like to drill up into the plates and hang bolts before
>> >>I
>> >>pour concrete. I also need to level out the house. It goes up and
>> >>down
>> >>about 2 inches, which is why I am replacing the foundation in the first
>> >>place
>> >
>> > I'd want to add another [treated] 2x6- but it is your choice. If
>> > you're in a dry area that doesn't have termites, then it probably
>> > isn't a big deal. I'd still at least treat the parts of the sill
>> > that you'll [hopefully] never see again.
>> >
>> > Here's how I did mine a couple years ago. This old house managed to
>> > lose 25' of foundation [100 yr old dry stone] on one wall- and 20 feet
>> > on the adjacent wall. The corner held, and we managed to replace
>> > the walls without even cracking sheetrock upstairs.
>> >
>> > Cribbed the crap out of it immediately.
>> > Replaced sill & drilled holes for 'L' bolts.
>> > Replaced cribbing with a solid steel post every 10'- Post gets buried
>> > in wall- and has its own footing that goes below wall footing so the
>> > final footing is an uninterrupted, reinforced unit.
>> >
>> > Level house to its final elevation.
>> > Insert L- bolts in holes.
>> > Ran wall to within block height plus 1/2".
>> > I used bond beam block for final course. [block with one side solid so
>> > you can fill it with concrete]
>>
>> Don't understand terminology. My blocks have "all sides and ends solid"
>> unless I buy "Speedblock" which has no ends and therefore does not need
>> to
>> be 'threaded' over the vertical rebar. Are we talking about the same
>> things?? Everything else you mention makes a lot of sense and should be
>> easy to effectuate. Thanks for the good hints.
>>
>> Ivan Vegvary
>
> Bond beam blocks are different and are designed so that you can lay
> horizontal rebar through them and fill the cavity with cement / mortar
> to create a continuous bond beam. They are necessary at the top of the
> foundation and at certain intervals of vertical spacing. Take a look at
> (and perhaps purchase) the Taunton Press Foundations and Concrete work
> book you can find at Depot / Lowe's.
>
> Pete C.

[block with one side solid so
>> > you can fill it with concrete]
Thanks, Pete
I do know what a bond beam and block looks like, Pete. It's just the above
"one side solid" that still confuses me. Bond beams have both ends and the
middle web notched for the rebar. Since my main question was 'how to fill
the last row of concrete' I thought you were referring to a specially made
(one side solid?) block just for that occasion.
Thanks, Ivan



Posted by Jim Elbrecht on July 20, 2006, 12:45 pm

-snip-
>I do know what a bond beam and block looks like, Pete. It's just the above
>"one side solid" that still confuses me.

I probably started the confusion by not saying- 'solid *bottom*'.

Sorry 'bout that.

Jim


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