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Framing a wall MiamiCuse 09-15-2007
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Posted by MiamiCuse on September 15, 2007, 8:44 pm
I have a question about framing an interior wall.

The way I have seen it done, you have the bottom plate and top plate and
studs in between, and the bottom plate to be PT since it's resting on
concrete slab. The drywall goes on top.

However, I recently demoed part of my house, and I had to extend existing
walls and build new walls. I did not notice it at the time, but today I
realized that the original construction had nailed furring strips (seems to
be 3/4" x 3") to the bottom plate on both sides. See the picture below:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/framing/P1010352.jpg

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/framing/P1010354.jpg

and the drywall actually sit on top of it flushed. I also measured the
ceiling and it's 99" above the slab instead of standard 96", I wonder if
they raised the ceiling so as to accomodate 2 sheets of 4x8 and the strip at
the bottom.

Is there any advantage of doing it this way? I would think the baseboards
will attach better?

I was going to frame the new walls differently, but seeing now how they did
it I think I have no choice but to do the same, or else my drywall will not
touch the ceiling, and I have to buy drywall sheets that match the thickness
of that strip.

Always running into surprises.

MC




Real Goods Solar, Inc.
Posted by marson on September 15, 2007, 9:44 pm
> I have a question about framing an interior wall.
>
> The way I have seen it done, you have the bottom plate and top plate and
> studs in between, and the bottom plate to be PT since it's resting on
> concrete slab. The drywall goes on top.
>
> However, I recently demoed part of my house, and I had to extend existing
> walls and build new walls. I did not notice it at the time, but today I
> realized that the original construction had nailed furring strips (seems to
> be 3/4" x 3") to the bottom plate on both sides. See the picture below:
>
> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/framing/P1010352.jpg
>
> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/framing/P1010354.jpg
>
> and the drywall actually sit on top of it flushed. I also measured the
> ceiling and it's 99" above the slab instead of standard 96", I wonder if
> they raised the ceiling so as to accomodate 2 sheets of 4x8 and the strip at
> the bottom.
>
> Is there any advantage of doing it this way? I would think the baseboards
> will attach better?
>
> I was going to frame the new walls differently, but seeing now how they did
> it I think I have no choice but to do the same, or else my drywall will not
> touch the ceiling, and I have to buy drywall sheets that match the thickness
> of that strip.
>
> Always running into surprises.
>
> MC

Well there are many ways to skin this cat. If your walls are an
unusual thickness, then you will have to fir them out to match
existing. I don't think many people would monkey with using 3/4
firring on the bottom plate to flush with the sheetrock any more. It
would make base trim a bit easier, but wood is pretty expensive.
Standard procedure is to hang the top sheet first to get as tight a
fit as possible to the ceiling. If your base is tall enough to cover
on the bottom, you could fill the bottom three inches with sheetrock
or whatever and not even bother taping the bottom joint. Your base
would have to be tall enough to cover the factory tapered seam--it
would probably have to be about 5". You could also leave the 3" gap
between the sheets, and fill this with 3/8 rock--this would be easy to
tape as the factory tapered seams would butt into the 3/8 rock and the
whole works gets taped and filled. Yet another approach is to buy
some 54" rock---so you would use a 4 foot sheet and a 51" sheet.



Posted by Robert Allison on September 15, 2007, 11:32 pm
MiamiCuse wrote:
> I have a question about framing an interior wall.
>
> The way I have seen it done, you have the bottom plate and top plate and
> studs in between, and the bottom plate to be PT since it's resting on
> concrete slab. The drywall goes on top.
>
> However, I recently demoed part of my house, and I had to extend existing
> walls and build new walls. I did not notice it at the time, but today I
> realized that the original construction had nailed furring strips (seems to
> be 3/4" x 3") to the bottom plate on both sides. See the picture below:
>
> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/framing/P1010352.jpg
>
> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/framing/P1010354.jpg
>
> and the drywall actually sit on top of it flushed. I also measured the
> ceiling and it's 99" above the slab instead of standard 96", I wonder if
> they raised the ceiling so as to accomodate 2 sheets of 4x8 and the strip at
> the bottom.
>
> Is there any advantage of doing it this way? I would think the baseboards
> will attach better?
>
> I was going to frame the new walls differently, but seeing now how they did
> it I think I have no choice but to do the same, or else my drywall will not
> touch the ceiling, and I have to buy drywall sheets that match the thickness
> of that strip.
>
> Always running into surprises.
>
> MC

Sounds like someone used 8' 2x4s instead of studs and then
used the nailers to fill in at the bottom. Just leave off the
bottom nailer and use blocks to hold the base out at the
bottom, or use strips of sheetrock as filler strips.

--
Robert Allison        
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

Posted by marson on September 16, 2007, 8:01 am
> MiamiCuse wrote:
> > I have a question about framing an interior wall.
>
> > The way I have seen it done, you have the bottom plate and top plate and
> > studs in between, and the bottom plate to be PT since it's resting on
> > concrete slab. The drywall goes on top.
>
> > However, I recently demoed part of my house, and I had to extend existing
> > walls and build new walls. I did not notice it at the time, but today I
> > realized that the original construction had nailed furring strips (seems to
> > be 3/4" x 3") to the bottom plate on both sides. See the picture below:
>
> >http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/framing/P1010352.jpg
>
> >http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/framing/P1010354.jpg
>
> > and the drywall actually sit on top of it flushed. I also measured the
> > ceiling and it's 99" above the slab instead of standard 96", I wonder if
> > they raised the ceiling so as to accomodate 2 sheets of 4x8 and the strip at
> > the bottom.
>
> > Is there any advantage of doing it this way? I would think the baseboards
> > will attach better?
>
> > I was going to frame the new walls differently, but seeing now how they did
> > it I think I have no choice but to do the same, or else my drywall will not
> > touch the ceiling, and I have to buy drywall sheets that match the thickness
> > of that strip.
>
> > Always running into surprises.
>
> > MC
>
> Sounds like someone used 8' 2x4s instead of studs and then
> used the nailers to fill in at the bottom. Just leave off the
> bottom nailer and use blocks to hold the base out at the
> bottom, or use strips of sheetrock as filler strips.
>
> --
> Robert Allison
> Rimshot, Inc.
> Georgetown, TX

Yeah robert, but if his base is only 3" tall, the top edge will fall
right on the factory tapered seam--he'll have to crawl around on his
hands and knees and mud that sucker then.


Posted by Robert Allison on September 16, 2007, 11:28 am
marson wrote:
>
>>MiamiCuse wrote:
>>
>>>I have a question about framing an interior wall.
>>
>>>The way I have seen it done, you have the bottom plate and top plate and
>>>studs in between, and the bottom plate to be PT since it's resting on
>>>concrete slab. The drywall goes on top.
>>
>>>However, I recently demoed part of my house, and I had to extend existing
>>>walls and build new walls. I did not notice it at the time, but today I
>>>realized that the original construction had nailed furring strips (seems to
>>>be 3/4" x 3") to the bottom plate on both sides. See the picture below:
>>
>>>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/framing/P1010352.jpg
>>
>>>http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/framing/P1010354.jpg
>>
>>>and the drywall actually sit on top of it flushed. I also measured the
>>>ceiling and it's 99" above the slab instead of standard 96", I wonder if
>>>they raised the ceiling so as to accomodate 2 sheets of 4x8 and the strip at
>>>the bottom.
>>
>>>Is there any advantage of doing it this way? I would think the baseboards
>>>will attach better?
>>
>>>I was going to frame the new walls differently, but seeing now how they did
>>>it I think I have no choice but to do the same, or else my drywall will not
>>>touch the ceiling, and I have to buy drywall sheets that match the thickness
>>>of that strip.
>>
>>>Always running into surprises.
>>
>>>MC
>>
>>Sounds like someone used 8' 2x4s instead of studs and then
>>used the nailers to fill in at the bottom. Just leave off the
>>bottom nailer and use blocks to hold the base out at the
>>bottom, or use strips of sheetrock as filler strips.
>>
>>--
>>Robert Allison
>>Rimshot, Inc.
>>Georgetown, TX
>
>
> Yeah robert, but if his base is only 3" tall, the top edge will fall
> right on the factory tapered seam--he'll have to crawl around on his
> hands and knees and mud that sucker then.
>

True, but you are going to have to really look hard to find a
base that is only 3". When you reach that size base it is
almost always 3-1/2" or 3-5/8". That shouldn't be a problem.
If he has some base that is problematic, then what I would
do is run a sheet of drywall to the ceiling, run a sheet to
1/2" off the floor and fill in the gap between the two sheets.
That way, there is just one joint to mud in the middle.


--
Robert Allison        
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

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