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Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here.
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Posted by RicodJour on September 24, 2009, 1:30 am
On Sep 23, 11:09=A0pm, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
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> >> > I would suggest you either go all wood or all steel. =A0The main
> >> > benefits of steel framing; straighter members, bug & rot free (but
> >> > they can rust) & more price stablity than timber. But with prices do=
> >> > on timber I really don't the advantage since timber framing is quite=
> >> > bit easier for most of us. =A0Stud too long, skilsaw or chop saw.
> >> > Nailed framing is faster & easier than screwed together framing.
> >> I suppose I am trying to avoid the hassle of building a wall on the
> >> floor, then hoisting it up, and installing a header and/or shimming.
> >> Is there less labor in that than I am assuming?
> >> It seems nice to be able to throw up some metal top & bottom and cut
> >> studs to fit. Am I "smoking the weed"?
> Nothing stopping you from doing the same with all wood.
> Puit your sill-plate and header in place, cut studs to fit, and screw
> together toe-nail style with deck screws.
> Fast, easy, and solid.
The OP asked if what he intended with the metal track and wood studs
makes sense. I do it for a living so I figured I'd tell him it does.
Your way, while standard for some, is also a lot slower with little
benefit. If you're building a bearing wall, you want tight, if it's a
partition you don't need, or necessarily want, tight. As Tony was
pointing out, building an inadvertent bearing wall might not be the
best idea. Using the metal track allows gang cutting of studs and
then just snapping them into place between the two tracks.
show/hide quoted text
> >If you are, it isn't the good stuff because you're still making sense.
> >My standard operating procedure for basement partitioning is to use a
> >PT bottom plate with metal track on top of it and a metal top track at
> >the ceiling joists. =A0I install the top track first, plumb down to
> >locate the bottom plate, shoot in (or Tapcon) the PT plate to the
> >slab, then attach the metal track on top. =A0Cut the wood studs about
> >1/4" short of a tight fit between the tracks, then slip the studs into
> >place.
> I put a strip of DriCore down under the sill plate - no pressure
> treated lumber inside my house.
To each his own - my point was to use something that is rot and insect
resistant. Cedar would also work. I don't know that I follow you
comment - you cut up the 2' squares to make 3.5" strips? Do you mean
that you install your partitioning on top of a DriCore (sub)floor?
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Posted by Tony Hwang on September 22, 2009, 8:50 pm
Bryan Scholtes wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> I am framing my basement, and love the idea of building a metal-stud
> wall in place. It seems very convenient to just attach metal top
> (header) and bottom (plate) studs and then cut the vertical studs to
> fit inside them.
>
> However, I also like to hang heavy things on my wall, and I don't like
> the added cost of metal-specific electrical boxes. For this reason I'd
> prefer wood vertical studs.
>
> Is it possible (or code) to use metal for the top and bottom, and
> attach wood vertical studs to them?
>
Hi,
Tight fit framed wall is not a good idea.
Make it sort of float.
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Posted by Bryan Scholtes on September 23, 2009, 11:42 am
show/hide quoted text
> Bryan Scholtes wrote:
> > I am framing my basement, and love the idea of building a metal-stud
> > wall in place. It seems very convenient to just attach metal top
> > (header) and bottom (plate) studs and then cut the vertical studs to
> > fit inside them.
> > However, I also like to hang heavy things on my wall, and I don't like
> > the added cost of metal-specific electrical boxes. For this reason I'd
> > prefer wood vertical studs.
> > Is it possible (or code) to use metal for the top and bottom, and
> > attach wood vertical studs to them?
> Hi,
> Tight fit framed wall is not a good idea.
> Make it sort of float.
Thanks, can you elaborate?
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Posted by Tony Hwang on September 23, 2009, 8:05 pm
Bryan Scholtes wrote:
show/hide quoted text
>> Bryan Scholtes wrote:
>>> I am framing my basement, and love the idea of building a metal-stud
>>> wall in place. It seems very convenient to just attach metal top
>>> (header) and bottom (plate) studs and then cut the vertical studs to
>>> fit inside them.
>>> However, I also like to hang heavy things on my wall, and I don't like
>>> the added cost of metal-specific electrical boxes. For this reason I'd
>>> prefer wood vertical studs.
>>> Is it possible (or code) to use metal for the top and bottom, and
>>> attach wood vertical studs to them?
>> Hi,
>> Tight fit framed wall is not a good idea.
>> Make it sort of float.
>
> Thanks, can you elaborate?
Hi,
Let the frame height has an inch or bit more gap. So in case there is a
settling or sagging of the ceiling, walls won't buckle. I frame that way
always. Bottom sole plate is nailed into floor but I use jack nails thru
a drilled holes to secure the top plate. Also studs little bit off the
wall to make it straight vertically. Wall is not really flat top to bottom.
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Page 3 of 3 << first < 1 2 3
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> >> > benefits of steel framing; straighter members, bug & rot free (but
> >> > they can rust) & more price stablity than timber. But with prices do=
> >> > on timber I really don't the advantage since timber framing is quite=
> >> > bit easier for most of us. =A0Stud too long, skilsaw or chop saw.
> >> > Nailed framing is faster & easier than screwed together framing.
> >> I suppose I am trying to avoid the hassle of building a wall on the
> >> floor, then hoisting it up, and installing a header and/or shimming.
> >> Is there less labor in that than I am assuming?
> >> It seems nice to be able to throw up some metal top & bottom and cut
> >> studs to fit. Am I "smoking the weed"?
> Nothing stopping you from doing the same with all wood.
> Puit your sill-plate and header in place, cut studs to fit, and screw
> together toe-nail style with deck screws.
> Fast, easy, and solid.