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French Drain through Load Bearing Wall?

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French Drain through Load Bearing Wall? Gritz_1 03-30-2008
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Posted by aemeijers on April 2, 2008, 6:53 pm
Banty wrote:
>>
>>> aemeijers says...
>>>> I still say water should be redirected or stopped outside the basement
>>>> perimeter. If that can't be done without heroic measures, well, maybe
>>>> that was a bad place to put a house/basement. (
>>> It's never been explained here that I've seen - exactly **why** is an
exterior
>>> perimeter drain preferable to an interior tile drain??
>> I can think of 2 reasons offhand-[from personal experience]- lower
>> humidity in the basement, and less chance of filling the block up with
>> water & 'rotting' them.
>>
>> Jim
>
> What exactly do you mean by 'rotting' the concrete block?
>
> Interior french drain systems usually include a way to drain the bottom blocks
> of water, if any, to redirect along with water in the trench.
>
> Banty
>
If there is water in the block, that means the wall is always damp, even
when it 'feels' dry. Concrete is not waterproof- that is what you see
when that white haze (efflorescence?) shows up near leaks- the white
stuff is minerals the water leached out of the concrete and mortar,
thereby weakening it. Doing construction demo as a kid, you could always
tell walls that had been wet long-term- you could pop the bricks or
blocks apart with just a tap. It eats away at the mortar first, and then
at the concrete itself.

And when you have water exposed to the heated air of the basement, even
if hidden under the trim covering the slit trench along the wall, that
can't help but spike the humidity down there. Even when I don't have
visible leaks in summer, I have to empty the dehumidifier every 2nd day.
(Sure wish the floor drains hadn't rusted/teakettled shut...:^( ) My
sump pit has been bone-dry since I have lived here- it is surface water
coming down through the backfill and failed waterproofing, migrating
through the walls. I'm convinced replacing the outside drains (assuming
they are there at all) and redoing the waterproofing would fix the
problem, but since the basement doesn't actually flood, it would
probably be a money loser at resale time. (Trust me to buy a house right
when the 5-7 % a year appreciation in housing values stops dead in its
tracks. Value of this place is MAYBE going up at the rate of inflation.)

Interior drains beat a wet basement, but a waterproof basement envelope
is what you should strive for.

--
aem sends...


Posted by Jim Elbrecht on April 3, 2008, 8:01 am

-snip-
>What exactly do you mean by 'rotting' the concrete block?
>

Constantly wet blocks degrade.

>Interior french drain systems usually include a way to drain the bottom blocks
>of water, if any, to redirect along with water in the trench.

Usually is a mighty big word. And even if they are installed, a small
weep hole is more likely to clog than a 4" perf-pipe.

Another advantage [in northern climates] of keeping that groundwater
outside of your house is heat loss. The best insulation is on the
outside of your block under a waterproof membrane. Then the slab and
walls become part of your heat sink. Water running through is a
constant source of 50degree or less coolant.

Jim

Posted by hallerb@aol.com on April 3, 2008, 8:20 am
>
> -snip-
>
> >What exactly do you mean by 'rotting' the concrete block?
>
> Constantly wet blocks degrade.
>
> >Interior french drain systems usually include a way to drain the bottom b=
locks
> >of water, if any, to redirect along with water in the trench.
>
> Usually is a mighty big word. =EF=BF=BDAnd even if they are installed, a s=
mall
> weep hole is more likely to clog than a 4" perf-pipe.
>
> Another advantage [in northern climates] of keeping that groundwater
> outside of your house is heat loss. =EF=BF=BDThe best insulation is on the=

> outside of your block under a waterproof membrane. =EF=BF=BDThen the slab =
and
> walls become part of your heat sink. =EF=BF=BD =EF=BF=BD Water running thr=
ough is a
> constant source of 50degree or less coolant.
>
> Jim

if your building a brand new homew install BOTH, the trouble is most
of us own existing homes, and beyond the obvious downspot clogged a
interior french drain is the MOST effective.....

been there done all this.....


Posted by Banty on April 3, 2008, 9:12 am
>
>
>-snip-
>>What exactly do you mean by 'rotting' the concrete block?
>>
>
>Constantly wet blocks degrade.
>
>>Interior french drain systems usually include a way to drain the bottom blocks
>>of water, if any, to redirect along with water in the trench.
>
>Usually is a mighty big word. And even if they are installed, a small
>weep hole is more likely to clog than a 4" perf-pipe.

?? "big word"

I've seen what B-Dry does. And what Vulcan did on one part of my house. B-Dry
much better - decent sized weepholes in each cavity of the bottom block, very
unlikely to clog. The weepholes *drain into* the trench with the perf-pipe (of
whatever sort). Both are present.

>
>Another advantage [in northern climates] of keeping that groundwater
>outside of your house is heat loss. The best insulation is on the
>outside of your block under a waterproof membrane. Then the slab and
>walls become part of your heat sink. Water running through is a
>constant source of 50degree or less coolant.

We're talking about taking groundwater and redirecting it, from just outside the
foundation at the footer, vs. just inside the foundation. How much of a heat
sink difference do you think that is?

BTW, I agree that, at least around here in our clay-shale geology, new
construction should have *both*. But most of us like myself purchase existing
houses.

Banty


Posted by Banty on March 31, 2008, 8:35 am
>
>> Gritz_1 wrote:
>>> We have a bi-level home on a hill; recently the garage, which is about
>>> 6' under ground, has been taking on water after a heavy storm. The
>>> house is on a slope, and we know that hydrostatic pressure is the
>>> culprit. We asked 4 contractors for ideas/bids and all suggested a
>>> French drain-sump pump set-up, which seems like the correct way to go.
>>> The sticking point is this; the garage is a 2 car, divided by a
>>> cinderblock, load bearing wall. One contractor says he can just go
>>> through that wall, and around the perimeter of the garage. This makes
>>> the job much less expensive, instead of going around 6 walls with the
>>> drain, he is going around 3, so the linear footage is much smaller. He
>>> says, the hole that would be cut through the load bearing wall is
>>> insignificant, and will be recemented anyway. I tend to agree with
>>> him after thinking about it, but I do not want to wake up with a
>>> collapsed/cracked wall one day! I would love to hear everyone's
>>> opnions.
>> My opinion is to regrade the back yard, and put in a swale to redirect the
>> water around the garage. If that isn't enough, bite the bullet, and dig
>> out the backfill on the outside of those 2 sides, and put in a proper
>> foundation drain, with proper gravel and whatever above. While the trench
>> is open, replace the waterproofing on the outside of the wall. Interior
>> french drains are a second-best solution in a basement, where the floor
>> gets almost no load. But putting them in a garage, thereby breaking the
>> link to where the slab sits on the footer, seems to be asking for trouble.
>> Not to mention, how warm does the garage stay? Ever get cold by where the
>> big doors open?
>>
>> IMHO, water should be redirected or stopped outside the basement wall.
>>
>> (Yes, I just had a site survey from a 'reputable' basement waterproofing
>> company, and even after I told him I grew up in the business and knew
>> better, he still tried to sell me snake oil. As he was packing up, he even
>> tried to offer me a discount if I would sign a contract and give him a
>> check right then.)
>>
>> But having said all that- no, a small hole in the bottom corner of the
>> dividing wall, to tuck a tile under there, won't seriously affect the
>> load-bearing capacity. I assume you have a door through the wall already?
>> Just stay away from right under the door frame.
>>
>> --
>> aem sends...
>
>
>From one who has gone through the drain problem from you know where, may I
>say that your suggestions are the first ones that make any sense.
>
>Gritz has tried to describe his problem, but it is a bit difficult to do so.
>And I can understand that.
>
>Your comment about french drain people selling snake oil is absolutely
>right. They wanted to do that on my property for $1-2000. The last owner
>sold rather than deal with it. I decided to do it myself. I found my
>problem was caused by construction fill of a deep ditch between my house and
>the neighbors; the street slopes downward toward me and the lawns are even
>with the curb. As I said, apparently before the houses were finished there
>was a big ditch there until they filled it in. The problem was that they
>used construction sand: very porous.
>
>After digging it all out, I could see that the groundwater would go six feet
>under the surface, then under my crawl space, which was like a swamp. The
>french drain guys wanted all that money to dig a 24" french drain. A lot of
>good that would do!
>
>Like your suggestion, I dug out around the house. The crawl space had been
>filled in with concrete block some years ago, but it wasn't sealed very
>good. I sealed and waterproofed it, then put a border of 4mil vinyl
>sheeting on it before I filled it in.
>
>Where the snake oil guys would have put a 24" french drain, I dug a
>50'X2'X6' deep trench, put a 4" socked slotted pipe at the bottom, then a
>sheet of 4mil vinyl along the side of the trench. The pipe went around the
>house to the lower side, where I got permission from the city to put a drain
>in the curb. I tied my gutter drains and a basement drain into it.
>
>This drastic fix works. We've had less than moderate rains so far this
>spring and haven't had any for nearly a week, but that drain that comes out
>of my curb is still running down the street today. It shows no sign of
>stopping.
>
>They would have put in the french drain and missed all that water!
>
>Oh, by the way, that crawl space is dry as a bone, even in rainy weather.
>The partial basement, which used to be slimy, is now dry as a bone.
>

Good thing you were apparently situated to do all that yourself so I won't ask
you about labor, bringing equipment to the site, etc. (did you compare even the
costs of materials, like the gravel, so what the "snake oil" would have been??)

Banty


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