Home Page link

Freshly soldered joint leaks; what now?

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 5 of 7       < 1 2 3 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Freshly soldered joint leaks; what now? Mortimer Schnerd, RN 05-01-2008
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by Jim Redelfs on May 2, 2008, 7:19 am
"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" <mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com> wrote:

> I consider myself fortunate I didn't catch anything on fire.

And in that regard, brave sir, your project was not a complete failure.
It was partially successful. Unfortunately, you have more work to do.

You are also to be commended for your self-honesty.

Good luck with your project.
--
:)
JR

Posted by S. Barker on May 1, 2008, 10:30 pm
Blow the lines clear of water, and re-sweat the joints with lots of paste.

s


"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" <mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com> wrote in message
>I spent a good while yesterday after noon with the spiders and snakes under
>my house replacing some valves that the last plumber had installed in the
>wrong sequence so that it was impossible to blow the lines clear before the
>first freeze of the season. The new valves are now in place and seem to be
>fine but I found that some very awkward places as I worked towards the
>outside faucet leak at the unions.... maybe three out of more than a dozen
>that I did. So what do I do now?
>
> I can easily blow the lines clear now but I'm reluctant to negate any more
> work than I absolutely have to in order to correct the problem. None of
> these leaks are gully washers... just drip, drip, drip... but I know I
> will not be able to live with them. What is the best way to fix the
> leaks? I'm talking about 1/2" copper lines and fittings.
>
>
>
> --
> Mortimer Schnerd, RN
> mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com
>



Posted by Red Green on May 1, 2008, 11:07 pm
"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" <mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com> wrote in

> I spent a good while yesterday after noon with the spiders and snakes
> under my house replacing some valves that the last plumber had
> installed in the wrong sequence so that it was impossible to blow the
> lines clear before the first freeze of the season. The new valves are
> now in place and seem to be fine but I found that some very awkward
> places as I worked towards the outside faucet leak at the unions....
> maybe three out of more than a dozen that I did. So what do I do now?
>
> I can easily blow the lines clear now but I'm reluctant to negate any
> more work than I absolutely have to in order to correct the problem.
> None of these leaks are gully washers... just drip, drip, drip... but
> I know I will not be able to live with them. What is the best way to
> fix the leaks? I'm talking about 1/2" copper lines and fittings.
>
>
>

As already said, redo it. There are several thing that make a good job. One
is to make sure the joints are REALLY cleaned. Shiny copper clean.

Get yourself some inside & outside tubing cleaners. Good for lots of other
stuff too but don't get them cruddy then use to clean tubing.

http://search.hardwarestore.com/?query=tube%20brush&tId=2210


Posted by Mortimer Schnerd, RN on May 2, 2008, 3:50 pm
Red Green wrote:
> As already said, redo it. There are several thing that make a good job. One
> is to make sure the joints are REALLY cleaned. Shiny copper clean.
>
> Get yourself some inside & outside tubing cleaners. Good for lots of other
> stuff too but don't get them cruddy then use to clean tubing.


I am happy to report the job is finished and no more leaks. I wandered down to
Lowes and bought a few things: specifically a heat shield and a MAP torch. I
cut a new section, cleaned up the ends bright and shiny, fluxed the unions and
the ends of the tubing and had at it.

The map torch was a big improvement over the propane torch I had been using.
One of the things I liked was the momentary switch on it... I pressed the
trigger, the gas came on and then it ignited. ZIt stayed ignited until i let go
of the trigger, allowing me to free up my hands very quickly. I also dug out
the knee pads which made it much more comfortable.

So, bottom line: next fall when the temperatures start dropping, I can turn off
the water under the house, access a port on the valve and then blow out the line
from the valveto under the back deck to the outside faucet on the edge of the
deck... leaving no water in the line to freeze and split. Life is good.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com



Posted by on May 2, 2008, 4:53 pm
On Fri, 2 May 2008 15:50:01 -0400, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"
<mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com> wrote:

>Red Green wrote:
>> As already said, redo it. There are several thing that make a good job. One
>> is to make sure the joints are REALLY cleaned. Shiny copper clean.
>>
>> Get yourself some inside & outside tubing cleaners. Good for lots of other
>> stuff too but don't get them cruddy then use to clean tubing.
>
>
>I am happy to report the job is finished and no more leaks. I wandered down to
>Lowes and bought a few things: specifically a heat shield and a MAP torch. I
>cut a new section, cleaned up the ends bright and shiny, fluxed the unions and
>the ends of the tubing and had at it.
>
>The map torch was a big improvement over the propane torch I had been using.
>One of the things I liked was the momentary switch on it... I pressed the
>trigger, the gas came on and then it ignited. ZIt stayed ignited until i let
go
>of the trigger, allowing me to free up my hands very quickly. I also dug out
>the knee pads which made it much more comfortable.
>
>So, bottom line: next fall when the temperatures start dropping, I can turn
off
>the water under the house, access a port on the valve and then blow out the
line
>from the valveto under the back deck to the outside faucet on the edge of the
>deck... leaving no water in the line to freeze and split. Life is good.

BRAVO!

Page 5 of 7       < 1 2 3 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
How to "re-spackle" painted, freshly installed sheetrock? February 27, 2007, 11:52 am
solderless vs soldered copper joints. August 6, 2006, 8:11 pm
Brass valve fails after soldered for 5 days August 4, 2006, 9:21 am
joint compound April 7, 2006, 4:32 pm
Leaking Copper Joint November 13, 2005, 7:49 am
Ceiling Plaster Joint? November 18, 2005, 3:42 pm
wiring joint question April 3, 2006, 5:03 pm
joint treatment compound April 19, 2006, 9:42 am
Joint compound over paint? May 23, 2006, 6:21 pm
drywall joint variances August 5, 2006, 2:27 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap