Home Page link

Freshly soldered joint leaks; what now?

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 6 of 7       < 1 2 3 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Freshly soldered joint leaks; what now? Mortimer Schnerd, RN 05-01-2008
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by Red Green on May 2, 2008, 8:28 pm
"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" <mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com> wrote in

> Red Green wrote:
>> As already said, redo it. There are several thing that make a good
>> job. One is to make sure the joints are REALLY cleaned. Shiny copper
>> clean.
>>
>> Get yourself some inside & outside tubing cleaners. Good for lots of
>> other stuff too but don't get them cruddy then use to clean tubing.
>
>
> I am happy to report the job is finished and no more leaks. I
> wandered down to Lowes and bought a few things: specifically a heat
> shield and a MAP torch. I cut a new section, cleaned up the ends
> bright and shiny, fluxed the unions and the ends of the tubing and had
> at it.
>
> The map torch was a big improvement over the propane torch I had been
> using. One of the things I liked was the momentary switch on it... I
> pressed the trigger, the gas came on and then it ignited. ZIt stayed
> ignited until i let go of the trigger, allowing me to free up my hands
> very quickly. I also dug out the knee pads which made it much more
> comfortable.
>
> So, bottom line: next fall when the temperatures start dropping, I
> can turn off the water under the house, access a port on the valve and
> then blow out the line from the valveto under the back deck to the
> outside faucet on the edge of the deck... leaving no water in the line
> to freeze and split. Life is good.
>
>
>

Attaboy!

That's one thing I don't have is a mapp torch. From what I hear, once
you've tried it you never go back ;-) Maybe it's my propane torch head
but I hate that when I tilt the torch various ways the flame changes.

Is that a torch head issue anyone? If so, does the same thing happen with
mapp?


Posted by Boden on May 2, 2008, 11:21 pm
Red Green wrote:
> "Mortimer Schnerd, RN" <mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com> wrote in
>
>
>>Red Green wrote:
>>
>>>As already said, redo it. There are several thing that make a good
>>>job. One is to make sure the joints are REALLY cleaned. Shiny copper
>>>clean.
>>>
>>>Get yourself some inside & outside tubing cleaners. Good for lots of
>>>other stuff too but don't get them cruddy then use to clean tubing.
>>
>>
>>I am happy to report the job is finished and no more leaks. I
>>wandered down to Lowes and bought a few things: specifically a heat
>>shield and a MAP torch. I cut a new section, cleaned up the ends
>>bright and shiny, fluxed the unions and the ends of the tubing and had
>>at it.
>>
>>The map torch was a big improvement over the propane torch I had been
>>using. One of the things I liked was the momentary switch on it... I
>>pressed the trigger, the gas came on and then it ignited. ZIt stayed
>>ignited until i let go of the trigger, allowing me to free up my hands
>>very quickly. I also dug out the knee pads which made it much more
>>comfortable.
>>
>>So, bottom line: next fall when the temperatures start dropping, I
>>can turn off the water under the house, access a port on the valve and
>>then blow out the line from the valveto under the back deck to the
>>outside faucet on the edge of the deck... leaving no water in the line
>>to freeze and split. Life is good.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Attaboy!
>
> That's one thing I don't have is a mapp torch. From what I hear, once
> you've tried it you never go back ;-) Maybe it's my propane torch head
> but I hate that when I tilt the torch various ways the flame changes.
>
> Is that a torch head issue anyone? If so, does the same thing happen with
> mapp?
>
With any torch if it is tilted such that liquid rather that gaseous
phase fuel enters the torch the flame will be impacted.

About 15 years ago I gave up and visited my trusty pawn shop. I came
out with an acetylne B-bottle and a turbo torch on a 50 foot hose. I'll
never go back to the tank with a torch on top.

Boden

Posted by Stormin Mormon on May 5, 2008, 10:02 am
Those turbo torches, the ones that whistle like a jet engine? Mapp is about
the same temp range. And you don't have to use a sparker. I'd much rather
have a mapp tank, than a B=tank and long hose.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.



With any torch if it is tilted such that liquid rather that gaseous
phase fuel enters the torch the flame will be impacted.

About 15 years ago I gave up and visited my trusty pawn shop. I came
out with an acetylne B-bottle and a turbo torch on a 50 foot hose. I'll
never go back to the tank with a torch on top.

Boden



Posted by Stormin Mormon on May 5, 2008, 10:00 am
Mapp tends to run best, upright. It's seriously hot, compared to propane.
Allows you to heat, solder, and get out quickly. Can be useful for valves,
so you can heat the joint quick and hot, but the heat doesn't have the time
to kill the valve. Of course, you're using the wet rag immediately as the
solder changes color and hardens.

One thing to note. Mapp doesn't work if the tank is cold. So, in the winter,
a tank stored in the car won't work. You have to warm up the tank to get it
to work.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.



Attaboy!

That's one thing I don't have is a mapp torch. From what I hear, once
you've tried it you never go back ;-) Maybe it's my propane torch head
but I hate that when I tilt the torch various ways the flame changes.

Is that a torch head issue anyone? If so, does the same thing happen with
mapp?



Posted by MLD on May 4, 2008, 12:04 pm

"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" <mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com> wrote in message
> Red Green wrote:
>> As already said, redo it. There are several thing that make a good job.
>> One
>> is to make sure the joints are REALLY cleaned. Shiny copper clean.
>>
>> Get yourself some inside & outside tubing cleaners. Good for lots of
>> other
>> stuff too but don't get them cruddy then use to clean tubing.
>
>
> I am happy to report the job is finished and no more leaks. I wandered
> down to Lowes and bought a few things: specifically a heat shield and a
> MAP torch. I cut a new section, cleaned up the ends bright and shiny,
> fluxed the unions and the ends of the tubing and had at it.
>
> The map torch was a big improvement over the propane torch I had been
> using. One of the things I liked was the momentary switch on it... I
> pressed the trigger, the gas came on and then it ignited. ZIt stayed
> ignited until i let go of the trigger, allowing me to free up my hands
> very quickly. I also dug out the knee pads which made it much more
> comfortable.
>
> So, bottom line: next fall when the temperatures start dropping, I can
> turn off the water under the house, access a port on the valve and then
> blow out the line from the valveto under the back deck to the outside
> faucet on the edge of the deck... leaving no water in the line to freeze
> and split. Life is good.
>
>
>
> --
> Mortimer Schnerd, RN
> mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com
>
Doesn't it make you feel better to do the job right and then have it all
work out. Long term satisfaction.
MLD


Page 6 of 7       < 1 2 3 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
How to "re-spackle" painted, freshly installed sheetrock? February 27, 2007, 11:52 am
solderless vs soldered copper joints. August 6, 2006, 8:11 pm
Brass valve fails after soldered for 5 days August 4, 2006, 9:21 am
joint compound April 7, 2006, 4:32 pm
Leaking Copper Joint November 13, 2005, 7:49 am
Ceiling Plaster Joint? November 18, 2005, 3:42 pm
wiring joint question April 3, 2006, 5:03 pm
joint treatment compound April 19, 2006, 9:42 am
Joint compound over paint? May 23, 2006, 6:21 pm
drywall joint variances August 5, 2006, 2:27 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap