Home Page link

From chalk lines to roof lines--Putting final shingles at the top

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 2 of 3       < 1 2 3 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
From chalk lines to roof lines--Putting final shingles at the top redwoodcoast 09-25-2006
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by on September 25, 2006, 8:00 pm
all of what has been said is good, unless you used some odd shingles.
if you used random gap shingles, then there is a special not so random
top shingle to lay on the top row. sold seperately of course. glad it
was included with my house kit.

Empressess #124457


The best Games


<a href=http://www.gamestotal.com/>Multiplayer Online Games</a> <a
href=http://www.gamestotal.com/>Strategy Games</a><br><a
href=http://uc.gamestotal.com/>Unification Wars</a> - <a
href=http://uc.gamestotal.com/>Massive Multiplayer Online
Games</a><br><a href=http://gc.gamestotal.com/>Galactic Conquest</a> -
<a href=http://gc.gamestotal.com/>Strategy Games</a><br><a
href=http://www.stephenyong.com/runescape.htm>Runescape</a><br><a
href=http://www.stephenyong.com/kingsofchaos.htm>Kings of chaos</a><br>




aemeijers@att.net wrote:
> >A couple of weeks ago, I asked a question about how to operate a
> > chalkline in relation to putting new three-tab asphalt shingles on a
> > shed roof.
> >
> > Got some great answers and my son and I went to work. Unfortunately, it
> > was much more work than I anticipated, and being a "40-something" mom
> > with an 18-year-old not too enthusiastic son as a co-worker, just
> > getting the bundles of shingles on the roof just about killed both of
> > us.
> >
> > So, work has progressed quite slowly. However, the end is in sight. We
> > are at the top! We measured so as to adjust the last few rows of
> > shingles so that they end right at the top.
> >
> > Perfect! Well, maybe not. This is a shed roof, basically a slanted
> > piece of plywood built on an angle with none of those fancy valleys,
> > ridges and other parts of a roof that we know nothing about. So, other
> > than cutting off parts of the three tabs at the end of each row, it has
> > been pretty simple.
> >
> > Except, what do we do now. My son pointed out, just as we prepared to
> > start the last row, that half the shingle will be grey, the bottom half
> > with the tabs will be white and the "black tarry strip across the
> > shingle will also be exposed. And where do we nail it?
> >
> > I did buy a piece of drip edge that will come up over the top of
> > shingle and I suppose we could nail right at the top, slop roof cement
> > where the shingle and drip edge will meet and go from there....will
> > that work.
> >
> > But, hey, I'm a woman, it is still going to look ugly with the
> > half-half color and tar at the top, and with using the chalkline and
> > all throughout, we have otherwise a very "perfect" looking job. Of
> > course it took us some 12 hours so far for 8 bundles...
> >
> You cut the tabs off a row of shingles, and nail them up individually.
> (Actually, you usually cut the shingles right above the tar line, but
> whatever works.) Yes, some spots of roofing cement here and there may be
> needed, if a tab lands where there is no sticky spot. You cap the thing off
> with premade ridge vent, or cap shingles, or (most people) with a bunch of
> shingles cut in thirds, with the tops tapered so the next shingle hides them
> At the end, you nail down a cut tab to cover the last light spot, and seal
> the nails with some tar, and sprinkle some of the same granules you scraped
> off an extra shingle into the tar spots to hide them. (Thy actually sell the
> granules at the roofing store for big spots, but most people only need a
> tiny bit.)
>
> If none of this makes sense, google for 'basic roofiug', or go find a DIY
> book, to see pictures. It ain't hard, just filthy and nasty.
>
> aem sends...


PexSupply Save 50 468x60
Posted by kevin on September 25, 2006, 8:16 pm
Actually, I think the other replies might be completely confusing
depending on what kind of roof you have.

Do you have sort of the classic american monopoly house "two slanted
pieces meeting in a ridge at the top" roof, a so called "gable roof"?
If so, then listen to the other replies. It just comes down to cutting
a bunch of shingles in thirds, then laying the pieces out like a big
caterpillar right down the ridge so that only the nice part of each
piece is showing. The Very last one you can cut off the ugly part. You
end up with 4 nails showing on that very last piece. This method works
basically the same if you have a ridge vent, too.

Or, do you have a very simple "one slanted piece" kind of roof,
basically just half of a gable roof, which is called a "shed roof"? If
so then the caterpillar trick doesn't work, since there is nothing on
the other side of the peak. In this case, shingle right up to the very
top edge. Hopefully your last row will have the visible ugly part
butting right up against the top edge. Or even better, it will hang
over a bit, and you can trim it so that it fits exactly. Now nail your
piece of drip edge on so that it sits on *top* of that ugly part -- the
rain landing on the drip edge will either fall off the one side of the
roof, or run down on top of the ugly part of the top row of shingles.
Then, cut off the ugly part of an entire row of shingles, so all you
have left is the nice looking tabs. Just nail these across the top edge
of the roof, *over* the drip edge, and preferably hanging over a little
bit off the top edge of the roof, so the entire drip edge is not
visible from above and won't get rained on. These should cover up all
the ugly part that was still visible from the row before. You will end
up with a row or two of exposed nails holding on these last pieces.
Just put a dab of black roof cement on each nail head, and no one will
ever notice.

-Kevin


Posted by Lawrence on September 25, 2006, 8:50 pm

redwoodcoast@fastmail.fm wrote:
This is a shed roof, basically a slanted
> piece of plywood built on an angle with none of those fancy valleys,
> ridges and other parts of a roof that we know nothing about. So, other
> than cutting off parts of the three tabs at the end of each row, it has
> been pretty simple.
>
> Except, what do we do now. My son pointed out, just as we prepared to
> start the last row, that half the shingle will be grey, the bottom half
> with the tabs will be white and the "black tarry strip across the
> shingle will also be exposed. And where do we nail it?
>
> I did buy a piece of drip edge that will come up over the top of
> shingle and I suppose we could nail right at the top, slop roof cement
> where the shingle and drip edge will meet and go from there....will
> that work.
>
Pehaps I can summarize the other posts and add my bit. You cut the
shingles in half to make the last course. the drip edge you have may
not be useful at this point but you may be able to use a flashing which
is a a simple right angle made of galvanized metal. One edge of the
flashing can cover the edge of the last course. the other edge can
cover the adjacent wall. If there is siding on the adjacent wall then
the flashing would ideally slip underneath that siding. If that is not
possible then you can nail it to the adjacent wall and cover the edge
of the flashing (and nails) with cement. What nails cannot be covered
with flashing can be covered with roofing cement.

Lawrence


Posted by on September 25, 2006, 10:46 pm

redwoodcoast@fastmail.fm wrote:
Hi all, OP again.

Just to clear things up. This is a small free-standing shed. And from
my last post here a few weeks ago, I learned that this type of roof is
called a "shed roof." Unfortunately, I don't remember the name of the
poster that told me that....

So, a very simple freestanding structure with a slanted roof. If you
stand at the front of the shed, the roof is probably 14 or so feet
high. If you go to the back, the roof is down to, oh, say, 7 feet high
-- this all being guess.

Anyway. Had three roofers out earlier who all wanted around $700 to
roof this with three-tab....decided could not afford it, but
considering the labor and the aches and pains that son and I had, maybe
that would have been the smarter move....LOL>

Anyway, sounds as if I need to do the last "course" as I thought and
then do another course of only three-tab cut-offs and then put the
"drip edge" over the top of that...it's not really a drip edge, I don't
think. It's a three inch, bent in the middle, thing I got at the home
center....Anyway, I think I have some half-baked ideas. We'll try them
out on Saturday.

Of course, if any of you any anything to add, feel free.


Posted by kevin on September 25, 2006, 11:35 pm
Good luck and have fun.

As for the drip edge, just be the rain and wind -- imagine where the
water will go when the wind is blowing (it can go uphill a ways). And
whatever you do will likely be fine, since this is just a shed and
won't be storing valuables.

-Kevin


Page 2 of 3       < 1 2 3 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
No Roof Shingles August 19, 2006, 12:20 pm
Roof Shingles October 9, 2007, 9:41 am
Roof Shingles Lifespan ? December 29, 2005, 4:10 pm
Roof Shingles Lifespan ? December 29, 2005, 4:11 pm
Zinc on roof shingles June 19, 2006, 11:48 pm
How do I tell who made the shingles on my roof? October 12, 2006, 4:25 pm
New roof or second layer of shingles? March 6, 2007, 7:00 pm
Metal roof shingles April 15, 2008, 10:31 am
When is it time to replace roof shingles? July 28, 2005, 8:08 am
Roof Pitch for Standard Shingles December 14, 2005, 10:59 am

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap