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Posted by ransley on June 21, 2008, 12:49 am
> On 6/20/2008 9:35 AM nos...@gmail.com spake thus:
>
> > The front door of my house is out of square. The top of the door
> > slopes down from the hinge side to the lock side leaving a gap. Do I
> > need to shim from the bottom? TIA
>
> Yes, but here's the deal on shimming the door: If you shim at the bottom
> as you propose, you'll have to redrill the hinge holes to move the door
> up towards the top. If the gap (and therefore the amount the door must
> be moved) is at least 1/4", this *might* work, but it'll be difficult if
> the distance is less, since the new holes will be right next to the old
> holes. (In this case, you'll need to *completely* fill the screw holes,
> by drilling them out and gluing in dowels, then drill the new holes.)
>
> The alternative is to keep the hinges where they are and shim at the
> top, which will be a lot easier but more noticeable.
>
> Here's what I'd do:
>
> 1. Make sure hinges are fully tightened. If any screws are stripped in
> their holes (very common), use the old toothpick-and-glue trick to make
> them hold. You want to make sure that none of the misalignment is due to
> loose hinges.
>
> 2. Measure the gap at the top on the lock side. This is the (approx.)
> size of the shim you'll need, assuming the bottom of the door lines up OK=
.
>
> 3. Shim the door and re-plane the top to match the jamb.
>
> --
> The best argument against democracy is a five-minute
> conversation with the average voter.
>
> - Attributed to Winston Churchill
He said the door is out of square and that it sags to the lock--side,
most likely its tight in height, at the hinge side at top so it cant
and should not be raised your "at least 1/4". [ where you ever got
that figure from!] Now he may likely have the normal tolerance at the
hinge side. So sure he could push out the bottom hinge with a shim,
and do nothing more and get it square, [without plaining] maybe you
need another Chemist for a "primer" on door operation.
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