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Fuse box to CB Panel - logistics

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Fuse box to CB Panel - logistics RichK 07-27-2007
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Posted by Pete C. on July 27, 2007, 3:29 pm
RichK wrote:
>
> Thanks Eric for a very sensible and to the point response. This is a v.
> good solution, when there is space in the immediate vicinity of the old fuse
> box.
>
> If the case, where I want to locate the new panel a few (say 6') from the
> fuesbox, wondering if
> this is still allowable. A bit more wire, but the same principle. Reason:
> old fuse box is in a finished part of a basement and want to locate new CB
> panel in an unfinished part.
>
> I'm also considering a small junction box with TB's that would potentially
> fit into existing space along with a new CB panel.
>
> Regards,
>
> RichK

The distance between the pull box and the new panel isn't critical, if
you want to locate the new panel 6' away that's perfectly fine. Don't
use the old fuse panel as a pull box, spend the $20 for a new one, the
inspector will be much happier with it. As with any pull box or junction
box, it has to be accessible, so you can't bury it behind sheetrock in
your finished space. You can get oversized covers for the pull box that
will overlap the sheetrock for a flush / finished appearance.

Pete C.


>
>
> > New CB panel (w/new service wiring) installed next to existing fusebox.
> Fusebox and CB panel connected together with 1 or more large (2"?) pieces
> of EMT.
>
> > The guts (fuses, sockets, etc. but not wires) of the fusebox were removed,
> effectively turning it into a junction box. Short
> > wires were run from the CB panel thru the EMT into the ex-fusebox and
> spliced to the existing wiring going to the rest of the
> > house.
> >
> > Eric Law
> >

Posted by RichK on July 27, 2007, 4:37 pm
Thanks for your help Pete C,



> Don't use the old fuse panel as a pull box, spend the $20 for a new one,
the
> inspector will be much happier with it.

So would I :-) In the case in point there are already two fuse boxes, one
being an adder for A/C. So I want to consolidate. Am also assuming that a
pull box might be a bit smaller.

> You can get oversized covers for the pull box that will overlap the
sheetrock for a flush / finished appearance.

That sounds even better.

Am also curious, as to the requirement for the neutrals running separately
from pull box to new panel. Obviously less work to run just one, as with
the ground.

Regards,

RichK






Posted by Pete C. on July 28, 2007, 3:41 am
RichK wrote:
>
> Thanks for your help Pete C,
>
>
> > Don't use the old fuse panel as a pull box, spend the $20 for a new one,
> the
> > inspector will be much happier with it.
>
> So would I :-) In the case in point there are already two fuse boxes, one
> being an adder for A/C. So I want to consolidate. Am also assuming that a
> pull box might be a bit smaller.
>
> > You can get oversized covers for the pull box that will overlap the
> sheetrock for a flush / finished appearance.
>
> That sounds even better.
>
> Am also curious, as to the requirement for the neutrals running separately
> from pull box to new panel. Obviously less work to run just one, as with
> the ground.
>
> Regards,
>
> RichK

I Don't have a code reference handy, but an obvious reason for separate
neutrals is that for GFCI circuit breakers if used and the AFCI circuit
breakers now required for circuits serving bedrooms, the circuit neutral
is required to run through the breaker so that the breaker circuitry can
make measurements of neutral current.

Posted by BillGill on July 28, 2007, 9:20 am
RichK wrote:
> Thanks for your help Pete C,

>
> Am also curious, as to the requirement for the neutrals running separately
> from pull box to new panel. Obviously less work to run just one, as with
> the ground.
>
> Regards,
>
> RichK
>
>
>
>
>

The obvious to me answer is that if you use just one
neutral all of the current from all of the circuits
winds up running through that one piece of wire. This
could easily lead to an overload condition.

Bill Gill

Posted by Stormin Mormon on July 28, 2007, 8:12 pm
With 220 volt feed to the house, it's very possible that if each
"leg" was running the same amperage, you'd have zero amps in the
neutral. So, the neutral is only for the imbalance.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.


:
: The obvious to me answer is that if you use just one
: neutral all of the current from all of the circuits
: winds up running through that one piece of wire. This
: could easily lead to an overload condition.
:
: Bill Gill



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