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Posted by on March 8, 2007, 6:56 am
> wrote:
>
> >At least it seems to me to be a rip-off.
> >We have a GE (electric) stove top we put in when we built the house ten
> >years ago. It has been satisfactory, but one of the cooking elements does
> >not heat. I exchanged it with another and the same location does not heat,
> >but both elements heat in another location, so it isn't a bad element.
>
> >I assume it is the control that is bad, but have not checked it. I called
> >GE to order a new control, figuring it would be perhaps at max, $20. Boy
> >was I wrong, it is $57.55. Oh well, I guess you gotta bite the bullet.
> >But the next shock was that they charge $16.82 for shipping, bringing the
> >total to $74.37.
>
> That's a lot of money. If you see a stove the same brand as yours in
> the trash, you can get one there for free. Carry a few tools in your
> car. I was late to work once and I passed up a stove just like mine.
> Later I needed the broil/bake switch which cost 35 dollars. Boy was I
> annoyed.
>
> >Sure seems to me that almost $17, is a bit overboard for mailing a small
> >part. I did not order it. Am going to do some trouble shooting first, and
> >if I do need the control, see if I can find a generic part.
>
> Not only that, I'd make sure that I didn't just need the socket the
> element plugs into. That's all I needed.
>
> Not sure about your case, but I could tell because when it wouldn't go
> on, I could twist the burner a bit and then it would go on. Maybe I
> heard a tiny click (a spark at the socket) when it went on in this
> manner, I'm not sure. I was busy so I let this go on for a few
> months until it was too annoying.
>
> Maybe you can test the socket by removing the burner element, sticking
> probes in the two holes, and then turning on the burner. IIRC it has
> 240 volts AC so set your meter to the right scale.
>
> But a better test might be lift the top of the stove and touch the
> probes to the place where the wires meet the socket. Unless you have
> alligator clip probe(s), I think this would take three hands so get
> someone to turn the stove on for you.
>
> If it's only the socket, they have them everywhere for 10? dollars
> iirc. There are two models, based on the brand of your stove. You
> sort of have to assemble two out of three parts, but it's fun and not
> too hard.
>
>
>
> >Anyway, it sure seems to me to be a rip-off, both on price and shipping.
>
> >Guess I'm just blowing off steam and not asking any question, unless someone
> >knows if they make generic parts.
>
> >Bob- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Check the online appliance parts suppliers. You'll likely find that
you can get it for less, maybe saving 20%. But, in general, this is
nothing new. The prices manufacturers charge for replacement parts
is many X what you would think they should cost. If you put an
appliance together piece by piece, it would cost 10X what a new one
costs.
A friend bought one of the ceramic flat top ranges last year for a
vacation house he occasionally rents out. Bad idea. Within a couple
months, a someone dropped something on it, making a quarter size chip
and a crack serveral inchs long. I checked online for a replacement
and it was $300+. The whole stove cost him $350 new. Luckily, it
still works, so he's just living with it. His other mistake was
returning the security deposit before he found the damage.
I symphatize with you, but just something we have to put up with.
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