Home Page link

GFCI Question "take two"

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 1 of 2       1 2 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
GFCI Question "take two" <j_richard 07-30-2005
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by on July 30, 2005, 3:19 pm


Imagine a hypothetical situation where you have a load center for a Spa,
wherein it contains a 2-pole 30 amp GFCI breaker (for heater) and a 20 amp
2-pole GFCI breaker. The 2-20 amp can be tripped (from a short circuit)
independently of the other, no trip bar connecting them, but when you hit
the GFCI trip button they both trip. This breaker operates the 110v loads
like the blower/light/ozanator etc. I've seen where, on some installations,
instead of having individual GFCI breakers, The 60 amp main is GFCI. In
this case since there is no 220v neutral load from the heater, should I use
the neutral load from the 110v stuff to hook to the 30 amp 220v GFCI. To be
on the safe side I drove a new ground rod to compliment the cold water
ground and bonded it back to my service panel. I know there was life and
hot tubs before GFCI, I just want to get the opinion of someone who knows.
No offense Todd H. (my smart-ass young poster) but this is not you. I
appreciate the Yellow pages advise but it wasn't really helpful




Posted by SQLit on July 30, 2005, 10:21 am



> Imagine a hypothetical situation where you have a load center for a Spa,
> wherein it contains a 2-pole 30 amp GFCI breaker (for heater) and a 20 amp
> 2-pole GFCI breaker. The 2-20 amp can be tripped (from a short circuit)
> independently of the other,

Personally I would want the whole thing to shut down not just individual
circuits. ( not a code requirement )

The last spa I worked on had a landing area for the incomming feeders and we
protected the whole thing at the panel with a gfci.
Every time I have seen multipule gfci's used it was either problematic or
coordination was impossible. (not speaking about adjustable breakers, just
residential )

I ran a #6 bond wire even though not required. Call me paranoid.

no trip bar connecting them, but when you hit
> the GFCI trip button they both trip. This breaker operates the 110v loads
> like the blower/light/ozanator etc. I've seen where, on some
installations,
> instead of having individual GFCI breakers, The 60 amp main is GFCI. In
> this case since there is no 220v neutral load from the heater, should I
use

Why would you want to do this? GFCI's measure imbalances in a circuit. Why
would you want to combine circuits? See above
> the neutral load from the 110v stuff to hook to the 30 amp 220v GFCI. To
be
> on the safe side I drove a new ground rod to compliment the cold water

What is the age of the home? Did your panel have an ground installed
already? (probably if cica ~1968 and newer) Were there 2 bare copper wires
in the panel? For an supplemental ground to be effective it needs to be
installed out of the sphere of grounding. example, ground rod 8 feet long so
the second ground rod would be installed a mininum of 8 feet way. If
installed closer then the new ground rod is not as effective as it could be.
I assume you used the same size wire as the water bond for you service.

> ground and bonded it back to my service panel. I know there was life and
> hot tubs before GFCI, I just want to get the opinion of someone who knows.
> No offense Todd H. (my smart-ass young poster) but this is not you. I
> appreciate the Yellow pages advise but it wasn't really helpful

My suggestion is to protect the panel with a GFCI and use regular breakers
for the other loads. AND seek local professional help. Hypothetically you
have a situation brewing here.




Posted by on July 30, 2005, 6:37 pm


>Personally I would want the whole thing to shut down not just individual
> circuits. ( not a code requirement )

I agree. I'm not trying to cut corners, just dealing with primary panel
breaker space and cost of new 60 amp GFCI.

> What is the age of the home? Did your panel have an ground installed
> already? (probably if cica ~1968 and newer) Were there 2 bare copper
> wires
> in the panel? For an supplemental ground to be effective it needs to be
> installed out of the sphere of grounding. example, ground rod 8 feet long
> so
> the second ground rod would be installed a mininum of 8 feet way.

'66. One cold water ground. More than 8 feet away. I think Bud and RBM
answered my question. I'm at least going to buy a new 30 amp 2-pole GFCI
and probably a new 60 and replace other two at load center. Another reason
I want to go with a new 30 amp is this spa (used) came with this
configuration factory.
Thanks for your input.

>
>> Imagine a hypothetical situation where you have a load center for a Spa,
>> wherein it contains a 2-pole 30 amp GFCI breaker (for heater) and a 20
>> amp
>> 2-pole GFCI breaker. The 2-20 amp can be tripped (from a short circuit)
>> independently of the other,
>
> Personally I would want the whole thing to shut down not just individual
> circuits. ( not a code requirement )
>
> The last spa I worked on had a landing area for the incomming feeders and
> we
> protected the whole thing at the panel with a gfci.
> Every time I have seen multipule gfci's used it was either problematic or
> coordination was impossible. (not speaking about adjustable breakers,
> just
> residential )
>
> I ran a #6 bond wire even though not required. Call me paranoid.
>
> no trip bar connecting them, but when you hit
>> the GFCI trip button they both trip. This breaker operates the 110v loads
>> like the blower/light/ozanator etc. I've seen where, on some
> installations,
>> instead of having individual GFCI breakers, The 60 amp main is GFCI. In
>> this case since there is no 220v neutral load from the heater, should I
> use
>
> Why would you want to do this? GFCI's measure imbalances in a circuit.
> Why
> would you want to combine circuits? See above
>> the neutral load from the 110v stuff to hook to the 30 amp 220v GFCI. To
> be
>> on the safe side I drove a new ground rod to compliment the cold water
>
> What is the age of the home? Did your panel have an ground installed
> already? (probably if cica ~1968 and newer) Were there 2 bare copper
> wires
> in the panel? For an supplemental ground to be effective it needs to be
> installed out of the sphere of grounding. example, ground rod 8 feet long
> so
> the second ground rod would be installed a mininum of 8 feet way. If
> installed closer then the new ground rod is not as effective as it could
> be.
> I assume you used the same size wire as the water bond for you service.
>
>> ground and bonded it back to my service panel. I know there was life and
>> hot tubs before GFCI, I just want to get the opinion of someone who
>> knows.
>> No offense Todd H. (my smart-ass young poster) but this is not you. I
>> appreciate the Yellow pages advise but it wasn't really helpful
>
> My suggestion is to protect the panel with a GFCI and use regular breakers
> for the other loads. AND seek local professional help. Hypothetically you
> have a situation brewing here.
>
>




Posted by RBM on July 30, 2005, 11:33 am


I don't mean to sound like a smart ass but your description doesn't sound
accurate. Like I said previously, you DON'T drive ground rods to protect a
tub or the related equipment. You also don't connect the neutral from a GFCI
breaker to something it is not protecting. If it is a straight 240 volt
heater, it doesn't use a neutral so you don't have one to connect. It does
however sound like you may have a defective GFCI breaker

> Imagine a hypothetical situation where you have a load center for a Spa,
> wherein it contains a 2-pole 30 amp GFCI breaker (for heater) and a 20 amp
> 2-pole GFCI breaker. The 2-20 amp can be tripped (from a short circuit)
> independently of the other, no trip bar connecting them, but when you hit
> the GFCI trip button they both trip. This breaker operates the 110v loads
> like the blower/light/ozanator etc. I've seen where, on some
> installations, instead of having individual GFCI breakers, The 60 amp main
> is GFCI. In this case since there is no 220v neutral load from the
> heater, should I use the neutral load from the 110v stuff to hook to the
> 30 amp 220v GFCI. To be on the safe side I drove a new ground rod to
> compliment the cold water ground and bonded it back to my service panel.
> I know there was life and hot tubs before GFCI, I just want to get the
> opinion of someone who knows.
> No offense Todd H. (my smart-ass young poster) but this is not you. I
> appreciate the Yellow pages advise but it wasn't really helpful
>




Posted by on July 30, 2005, 4:16 pm


RBM

You aren't !

On the ground rod thing. This is an older house, And without measuring
Impeadence to ground from my current service Gound connection to cold water
connection, I just added a ground rod, bonded it to service panel. The spa
is also bonded to this ground in the service panel.

on the breaker. I guess I could go buy another breaker but I would like
too test this one . I think what you might be saying is that if the breaker
was functioning correctly it should trip (GFCI trip button) without having
anything landed on the neutral lug of the breaker. The 30 I have would not
trip with or without the breaker supplied neutral was landed on neutral bus.
I just assumed that is why it didn't work.

thanks.

>I don't mean to sound like a smart ass but your description doesn't sound
>accurate. Like I said previously, you DON'T drive ground rods to protect a
>tub or the related equipment. You also don't connect the neutral from a
>GFCI breaker to something it is not protecting. If it is a straight 240
>volt heater, it doesn't use a neutral so you don't have one to connect. It
>does however sound like you may have a defective GFCI breaker
>
>> Imagine a hypothetical situation where you have a load center for a Spa,
>> wherein it contains a 2-pole 30 amp GFCI breaker (for heater) and a 20
>> amp 2-pole GFCI breaker. The 2-20 amp can be tripped (from a short
>> circuit) independently of the other, no trip bar connecting them, but
>> when you hit the GFCI trip button they both trip. This breaker operates
>> the 110v loads like the blower/light/ozanator etc. I've seen where, on
>> some installations, instead of having individual GFCI breakers, The 60
>> amp main is GFCI. In this case since there is no 220v neutral load from
>> the heater, should I use the neutral load from the 110v stuff to hook to
>> the 30 amp 220v GFCI. To be on the safe side I drove a new ground rod to
>> compliment the cold water ground and bonded it back to my service panel.
>> I know there was life and hot tubs before GFCI, I just want to get the
>> opinion of someone who knows.
>> No offense Todd H. (my smart-ass young poster) but this is not you. I
>> appreciate the Yellow pages advise but it wasn't really helpful
>>
>
>




Page 1 of 2       1 2 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
GFCI Question August 7, 2005, 8:43 pm
GFCI Question? December 1, 2005, 9:40 am
gfci question July 1, 2005, 6:31 pm
GFCI question March 29, 2007, 10:39 pm
Another GFCI Question June 23, 2006, 10:13 am
Another GFCI question; sorry! May 15, 2008, 2:23 am
GFCI question August 22, 2008, 8:04 pm
Re: GFCI question August 23, 2008, 2:03 pm
Re: GFCI question August 23, 2008, 3:35 pm
Re: GFCI question August 25, 2008, 12:45 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap