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Subject Author Date
GFCI question unklerichie 08-22-2008
---> Re: GFCI question John Grabowski08-22-2008
|   `--> Re: GFCI question Steve Barker DL...08-23-2008
`--> Re: GFCI question Stormin Mormon08-25-2008
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Posted by TWayne on August 25, 2008, 12:10 pm


> TWayne wrote:
>
> ...
>>
>> A 40" fan has to have a pretty good sized motor and takes several
>> seconds for it to come up to speed. Everything being reactive,
>> while it is starting, it is creating reverse EMF
>> (electro-motive-force) which, during that time, is making the
>> current in the two feed wires go out of phase with each other.
> B.S. Unless you have a very big reservoir for electrons, the current
> on the two feed wires will not be "out of phase".
> A large capacitor to ground would be such a reservoir, but that is
> a ground fault, and the GFCI should trip for that.
>
> ...
>> If it still pops, you could try VERY CAREFULLY (ELECTRICITY CAN
>> *KILL* YOU) TRY shorting around the GFCI with a lead until the fan
>> gets running. Then remove the bypass; If the fan continues to run,
>> there is there is no problem with the fan.
> Not necessarily. There may be both mechanical and electrical
> differences in the motor during acceleration that could cause
> a ground fault during acceleration. OP didn't mention whether
> this motor had a centrifugal switch controlling the start winding.
>
> Most likely you have a ground fault in the motor.
> It may be solid or it may be intermittent.
> Have you tried measuring the resistance from hot to ground
> for the motor?

Since Neutral and Ground are tied together back in the breaker box,
that's not going to prove anything without disconnecting the wires and
even then without a voltage to break down the gap it likely wouldn't
show anything but the resistance part of the fan motor.
I wouldn't even bother with that; it'll measure near zero, only a few
ohms to a hundred or so depending on the fan motor coils.



Posted by M Q on August 25, 2008, 12:50 pm


TWayne wrote:

...
>>Most likely you have a ground fault in the motor.
>>It may be solid or it may be intermittent.
>>Have you tried measuring the resistance from hot to ground
>>for the motor?
>
>
> Since Neutral and Ground are tied together back in the breaker box,
> that's not going to prove anything without disconnecting the wires and
> even then without a voltage to break down the gap it likely wouldn't
> show anything but the resistance part of the fan motor.
> I wouldn't even bother with that; it'll measure near zero, only a few
> ohms to a hundred or so depending on the fan motor coils.
>
>
Of course you disconnect the motor before measuring!


Posted by Stormin Mormon on August 25, 2008, 10:22 am


The way you tell what the problem is. Notice when the GFCI trips. If the
GFCI trips consistenly with one appliance other, then the problem is with
the appliance. For example, if one appliance consistently runs for a couple
seconds and then trips the GFCI, you can be fairly sure that one appliance
has a power leak.

A standard socket might keep the appliance running, but won't be as safe.
It's unlikely anyone will be shocked by a 40 inch shop fan, especially if
the fan is properly grounded. So, a non GFCI socket may be a work around for
you.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


Hello Group.

I have a problem with a GFCI tripping every time I turn on my shop
fan. This line has a 40" shop fan (on a wall switch) and three
outlets. I can use the outlets fine, but when I turn on the fan, it
runs for about ten seconds and then it trips the GFCI. It was wired
by a licensed electrician and worked fine for ten years. What is the
best way to figure out what's bad, the fan motor, the GFCI, or maybe
the breaker? Any advice?

Thanks.

unklerichie



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