"GREAT STUFF" - Page 3

Posted by aemeijers on November 3, 2009, 11:24 pm

The Daring Dufas wrote:

> Van Chocstraw wrote:

>> The Daring Dufas wrote:

>>> MiamiCuse wrote:

(snip)

>>>> These small cans are expensive at $4-$7 a can. If I need larger
>>>> quantities, they don't sell them in garbage can sizes?
>>>> MC
>>> That stuff works great up the tailpipe of some jerks BMW too.
>>> TDD

>> Depends on how soon after they start the car. They could just blow it
>> all out if it's still wet.

>
> That's why you use a long extension tube that will reach way
> up in there to the muffler. *snicker*
>
> TDD

A large Idaho potato and short length of broom stick works well, and is
a lot cheaper.

--
aem sends...

Posted by The Daring Dufas on November 3, 2009, 11:43 pm

aemeijers wrote:

> The Daring Dufas wrote:

>> Van Chocstraw wrote:

>>> The Daring Dufas wrote:
>>>> MiamiCuse wrote:

> (snip)

>>>>> These small cans are expensive at $4-$7 a can. If I need larger
>>>>> quantities, they don't sell them in garbage can sizes?
>>>>> MC
>>>> That stuff works great up the tailpipe of some jerks BMW too.
>>>> TDD
>>> Depends on how soon after they start the car. They could just blow it
>>> all out if it's still wet.

>> That's why you use a long extension tube that will reach way
>> up in there to the muffler. *snicker*
>> TDD

>
> A large Idaho potato and short length of broom stick works well, and is
> a lot cheaper.
>
> --
> aem sends...

The tater is easy to get out but a muffler full of foam.........

TDD

Posted by Stormin Mormon on November 4, 2009, 11:23 am

I have used the foam to fill in voids, in vehicle sheet
metal. Helps keep moisture out, and rocker panels and such
last a lot longer.

I've heard that criters and insects don't go near it, but
others have found differently. I'd go ahead, and foam it in.
A couple of hints from experience:

* You get one use of the can. Plan several projects, and use
the entire cat at one time.
* The uncured stuff doesn't come off of hands, clothing,
etc. Handle it like chem bio waste, and don't touch it.
* Have an empty shopping bag, in your pocket. When you're
finished, shove the can and tube into the bag.
* After it's cured (next day) you can trim or shape it with
razor knife, or sharp steak knife. Cured foam is not
dangerous to hands, clothes, etc.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

I have a question on those foam sealant especially the GREAT
STUFF
products.

First, I think those are basically for insulation and
nothing else,
right?

Would you use it in places where no insulation is necessary,
but you
still want to put up a water tight barrier?

For example, I have a 3" PVC pipe that exits the house below
the slab
through the block wall (the block wall extends below the
slab to at
least 24" below, don't really know how deep it goes have not
got to
the bottom of it). Anyways I drilled a hole through the
block wall
about 3"x3" for the pipe to pass. The hole is uneven and
it's through
a hollow block wall. I don't need to insulate it since it's
18" below
my concrete slab, but I want to stop bugs, tree roots,
rodents, or
rain runoffs from coming through it. I patched it with
concrete mix
on the outside of the hole. But the entire hollowed space
in between,
do I spray the cavity with this foam stuff?

Are there any fundamental differences between the Fireblock
foam, door
and window foam, cracks and gaps foam and big gap foam?

There are many places in my block wall electricians have
hollowed out
for recessed boxes. I am thinking of filling those with
foam.
However since the wall is made of hollowed concrete blocks,
the space
behind the hole is big, sometimes it extends above and below
to the
voids of the adjacent blocks. Being in Miami I would like
to insulate
best I can. What do you recommend be the most effective way
to seal
these holes?

These small cans are expensive at $4-$7 a can. If I need
larger
quantities, they don't sell them in garbage can sizes?

MC

Posted by aemeijers on November 4, 2009, 9:53 pm

Stormin Mormon wrote:

> I have used the foam to fill in voids, in vehicle sheet
> metal. Helps keep moisture out, and rocker panels and such
> last a lot longer.
>

(snip)

Maybe in warm and/or dry areas. I tried that up here in salt country
once, and it rotted the whole area out, while the rocker/C-pillar on the
other side stayed fine by comparision. I ended up popping the bondo
plugs out, and digging the foam out as best I could with a coat hanger,
and mudding the whole thing with the fiber-reinforced bondo stuff over
the traditional filler of wadded up window screen. Best I can figure,
since the space wasn't totally filled or sealed, it held water against
the backside of the bare steel in the dead space. It seemed like a good
idea at the time, but it bit me in the butt. Perhaps if it was done on
bone-dry virgin metal where rust didn't already have a foothold, it
would work better.

--
aem sends...

Posted by RicodJour on November 4, 2009, 10:06 pm

> Stormin Mormon wrote:

> > I have used the foam to fill in voids, in vehicle sheet
> > metal. Helps keep moisture out, and rocker panels and such
> > last a lot longer.

> (snip)
> Maybe in warm and/or dry areas. I tried that up here in salt country
> once, and it rotted the whole area out, while the rocker/C-pillar on the
> other side stayed fine by comparision. I ended up popping the bondo
> plugs out, and digging the foam out as best I could with a coat hanger,
> and mudding the whole thing with the fiber-reinforced bondo stuff over
> the traditional filler of wadded up window screen. Best I can figure,
> since the space wasn't totally filled or sealed, it held water against
> the backside of the bare steel in the dead space. It seemed like a good
> idea at the time, but it bit me in the butt. Perhaps if it was done on
> bone-dry virgin metal where rust didn't already have a foothold, it
> would work better.

I wouldn't count on it. It's the same thing as a building. It either
dries to the inside, or dries to the outside. If you prevent drying,
you will get rust.

R

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