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Galvanized Pipe kellyj00@gmail.com 12-21-2006
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Posted by on December 22, 2006, 12:22 am


>Grandpa wrote:
>>
>> Question - in all that talk about using water pipes for grounding,
>> someone mentioned bonding the water heater inlet and outlet pipes
>> together. If you're 100% PEX from the water meter, would that be
>> necessary?
>
>No, you don't use water pipes for grounding, you ground the water pipes. A
>subtle, but important difference.
>
>

In an older house it is possible that the water pipes were used for
the ground and that the pipes are in fact still the one and only
ground on the premises. If that is the case it will be necessary to
install a code-approved ground when replacing the pipes


--
Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm@charm.net

Posted by kellyj00@gmail.com on December 22, 2006, 8:53 am


Thanks for the responses fellas.


Posted by Eigenvector on December 22, 2006, 5:49 pm



>>Grandpa wrote:
>>>
>>> Question - in all that talk about using water pipes for grounding,
>>> someone mentioned bonding the water heater inlet and outlet pipes
>>> together. If you're 100% PEX from the water meter, would that be
>>> necessary?
>>
>>No, you don't use water pipes for grounding, you ground the water pipes. A
>>subtle, but important difference.
>>
>>
>
> In an older house it is possible that the water pipes were used for
> the ground and that the pipes are in fact still the one and only
> ground on the premises. If that is the case it will be necessary to
> install a code-approved ground when replacing the pipes
>
>
> --
> Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler.
>
> Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm@charm.net


Yes pay attention to that. There are lots of houses with plenty of gotchas
like that, espcially ones built in the 50's and 60's where grounding was
first becoming standard and desirable. My house was a virtual deathtrap of
grounds to water pipes - when the actual grounding was installed every and
all grounds unaccounted for were clipped by the electrican so as to rule out
fault loops and shock hazards.



Posted by kellyj00@gmail.com on December 27, 2006, 9:43 am


I have fiberglass insulation in my crawl space, should I use copper as
I would have to sweat most of the joints very near the fiberglass?

Fiberglass, I'm sure isn't flammable, just not sure if it's a good
idea.

Copper is $7 for 1/2" x 8ft at home depot here in Kansas! PEX is 50ft
x 1/2" for $25 here, and the tool is a rental for $10 a day at my local
hardware store.


Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on December 27, 2006, 10:27 am



>I have fiberglass insulation in my crawl space, should I use copper as
> I would have to sweat most of the joints very near the fiberglass?
>
> Fiberglass, I'm sure isn't flammable, just not sure if it's a good
> idea.
>
> Copper is $7 for 1/2" x 8ft at home depot here in Kansas! PEX is 50ft
> x 1/2" for $25 here, and the tool is a rental for $10 a day at my local
> hardware store.

Use what suits the job best. Sweating the joint is simple enough. Just put
a small piece of drywall between the joint and the fiberglass to hold it
away.



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