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Posted by waves2ya on September 3, 2008, 7:30 am
> "waves2ya" wrote
>
> > I've an unheated garage many years old.
>
> How many? =A0Also is it attached to the house or 'free standing'? =A0Both=
make a
> difference.
>
> > One side the concrete floor
> > meets the wall (wood beams) just fine; but on the other side a gap of
> > about an inch or two can be seen along a length of at least 20 feet.
> > Critters see it too and worm their way into the shelter...
>
> If attached to the house, much more of a problem and a more solid 'fix'
> needed.
>
> > First - is this gap indicative of a greater problem in the garage (the
> > wall is solid and straight)
>
> Depends on how old it is. =A0Say, 20-30 years, and hasnt changed in last =
5-10,
> not a problem.
>
> > and secondly, how can I seal this gap...?
> > Add concrete...? =A0Patch with 'hardware cloth'...?
>
> Hardware cloth will not work more than a very short time. =A0While anothe=
r
> suggested mortar (a very possible solution) it may not be easy to apply
> depending on the design of the fill area and my be pretty unsightly both
> based on that design, and your skill level. =A0If your skills with it are=
nt
> pretty good, you will create a potential 'hack looking job' that can driv=
e
> off a buyer if it's attached to the house. =A0Less so if a free standing =
unit
> and not apparent from outside of it.
>
> I can think of several simple fixes that would work in most climates but
> they make presumptions on the construction of the 'wall'. =A0Will work fo=
r
> attached garage or free standing sorts.
>
> 1. =A0If it's pretty much a bare wall with studs on the inside and some s=
ort
> of exterior siding, get some of the blue foam largish squares and cut pan=
els
> in that about 1ft tall and run them down to the floor using 3 layers at
> least. =A0Set these in a bottom of thick layered caulking. =A0Over the st=
uds,
> you may want to add that sort of board with the holes in it you can add
> hooks to for tools, floor to 'top'.
> =A0 =A0- This presumes no real drywall etc is there already, water doesnt=
come
> in the gap due to landscaping or area
> =A0 =A0- If presumptions are right, the smart thing is to insulate all th=
e way
> up as it's real easy to just add some rolled 'pink insulation' between th=
e
> studs at this stage then add the simple 'pegboard' (I believe that is the
> name of it). =A0You may want to do the whole garage with it.
>
> 2. =A0If you do get water flow in there, you wouldnt have drywall left so=
we
> can rule that out but you need a proper water barrier. =A0Mortar is good =
but
> you'll want to cover it with 'peg board' as in #1 above unless you know h=
ow
> to do it really well.
>
> 3. =A0If you get no water, and do have something like drywall or perhaps
> paneling of some sort, I'd fill the gap tightly with thin 'shim wood' and
> loads of caulk all coating everything, then put up a baseboard on the
> inside. =A0The wood in mind is sold in 6-8ft lengths and you'd add it
> 'longwise' (same orientation as the wall).
>
> Add more information on the circumstances and we can help narrow this dow=
n
> for you better ok? =A0Nice folks here but there were too many variables l=
eft
> to really answer.
Is detached from house; nothing structurally has changed in many
years; dry - but wall in uninsulated (no drywall, etc.)...
Thanks, again.
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