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Garage Door Spring Rips Garage Apart andy 07-07-2007
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Posted by Steve Barker on July 8, 2007, 2:09 pm
Well for one thing, they're a superior system. and for another thing, when
they break, they don't tear shit up.

--
Steve Barker







> - Huh? How does a torsion spring present a 'different danger' than a
> extension spring?
>
> One of the responses was to replace the door with one that uses
> torsion springs, implying
>



Posted by DerbyDad03 on July 7, 2007, 3:13 pm
On Jul 7, 2:30 pm, a...@invalid.com wrote:
> One of the cables broke on my garage door. It appears that when it
> broke the spring pressure did the damage. The door track is (was)
> hung from a vertical 2x4 coming down from the ceiling. (I have an 8
> foot high door in a garage with a 9 foot ceiling). The spring was
> attached to a large eye hook in that 2x4. The spring actually
> shattered that 2x4 causing the track to become disconnected and free
> hanging. The spring was found in the rear of the garage where it
> knocked a bunch of cans of oil and other automotive chemicals all over
> the floor and a chunk of wood was ripped off one shelf. This left a
> major mess with oil on the floor.
>
> Luckily I entered the garage via the walk in door. I was shocked when
> I went in there. I first noticed the oil mess and started cussing at
> my cats, thinking they had gotten in there. But there were no cats.
> When I turned around I noticed the door track hanging free and soon
> discovered the spring on the floor.
>
> I heard these springs are dangerous, but I never knew they could do
> this much damage. I know I can fix this, and this time I intend to
> use a hardwood 2x4 or maybe a 4x4 if I can find one. However, I dont
> like the idea of walking into a garage with these springs ready to
> fly, which could cause severe injury.
>
> Is there any way to secure the spring so if something breaks, at least
> it will stay up in the air where it belongs?
> This is an older 8 foot high, 9 foot wide wooden door. It's not that
> heavy, but still needs the springs to lift it. Where I used to live
> we had a 10 foot wide fiberglass door and I could lift it without
> springs, although it was a bit of a struggle. Those springs were not
> as large (and likely not as powerful).
>
> I'm off to buy a new cable, but I wont feel safe going into the garage
> until I can find a way to make those springs safer. Placing them
> inside a steel tube (pipe) seems like one way, but how?
>
> Anyone got any tips?
>
> Thanks
>
> Andy

After an about a week's absence, a coworker came into work with a face
that looked like it had been beaten with a bat. In fact, it had been
beaten with a garage door spring that let go as he was walking through
the garage. Luckily, his son heard a strange sound from the garage and
went out to find his dad on the floor - broken, bleeding and barely
concious.

His face was one ugly mess.



Posted by Paul Franklin on July 7, 2007, 3:31 pm
On Sat, 07 Jul 2007 13:30:43 -0500, andy@invalid.com wrote:
<snip?
>
>Is there any way to secure the spring so if something breaks, at least
>it will stay up in the air where it belongs?
>This is an older 8 foot high, 9 foot wide wooden door. It's not that
>heavy, but still needs the springs to lift it. Where I used to live
>we had a 10 foot wide fiberglass door and I could lift it without
>springs, although it was a bit of a struggle. Those springs were not
>as large (and likely not as powerful).
>
>I'm off to buy a new cable, but I wont feel safe going into the garage
>until I can find a way to make those springs safer. Placing them
>inside a steel tube (pipe) seems like one way, but how?
>
>Anyone got any tips?
>

Extension springs should always have a second, separate piece of wire
rope running through the middle of the spring and secured solidly at
each end with a separate screw eye (not the one holding the spring.
This is called a spring keeper, and it keeps the spring from flying
loose if it breaks or comes free from the cable or attachment point.
Pick the attachment points so the spring can slide along the keeper as
it extends and contracts.

HTH,

Paul




Posted by on July 7, 2007, 3:46 pm
On Sat, 07 Jul 2007 15:31:41 -0400, Paul Franklin

>On Sat, 07 Jul 2007 13:30:43 -0500, andy@invalid.com wrote:
><snip?
>>
>>Is there any way to secure the spring so if something breaks, at least
>>it will stay up in the air where it belongs?
>>This is an older 8 foot high, 9 foot wide wooden door. It's not that
>>heavy, but still needs the springs to lift it. Where I used to live
>>we had a 10 foot wide fiberglass door and I could lift it without
>>springs, although it was a bit of a struggle. Those springs were not
>>as large (and likely not as powerful).
>>
>>I'm off to buy a new cable, but I wont feel safe going into the garage
>>until I can find a way to make those springs safer. Placing them
>>inside a steel tube (pipe) seems like one way, but how?
>>
>>Anyone got any tips?
>>
>
>Extension springs should always have a second, separate piece of wire
>rope running through the middle of the spring and secured solidly at
>each end with a separate screw eye (not the one holding the spring.
>This is called a spring keeper, and it keeps the spring from flying
>loose if it breaks or comes free from the cable or attachment point.
>Pick the attachment points so the spring can slide along the keeper as
>it extends and contracts.
>
>HTH,
>
>Paul
>
>

OK, so what you are saying is the cable goes thru the inside of the
springs coil and attaches somewhere to the garage frame, right?
This makes sense. If there is a picture on a website that would help
so I know if this cable goes straight or what.....

Buying a new door is not in the budget, and I sort of like my old
wooden one. These fiberglass doors are ugly. I will replace the
springs and cables, but that still dont account for metal failure
since anything can break at any time. I do like the idea of these
extra cables.

Thanks

Andy


Posted by DerbyDad03 on July 7, 2007, 3:58 pm
On Jul 7, 3:46 pm, a...@invalid.com wrote:
> On Sat, 07 Jul 2007 15:31:41 -0400, Paul Franklin
>
>
>
>
>
> >On Sat, 07 Jul 2007 13:30:43 -0500, a...@invalid.com wrote:
> ><snip?
>
> >>Is there any way to secure the spring so if something breaks, at least
> >>it will stay up in the air where it belongs?
> >>This is an older 8 foot high, 9 foot wide wooden door. It's not that
> >>heavy, but still needs the springs to lift it. Where I used to live
> >>we had a 10 foot wide fiberglass door and I could lift it without
> >>springs, although it was a bit of a struggle. Those springs were not
> >>as large (and likely not as powerful).
>
> >>I'm off to buy a new cable, but I wont feel safe going into the garage
> >>until I can find a way to make those springs safer. Placing them
> >>inside a steel tube (pipe) seems like one way, but how?
>
> >>Anyone got any tips?
>
> >Extension springs should always have a second, separate piece of wire
> >rope running through the middle of the spring and secured solidly at
> >each end with a separate screw eye (not the one holding the spring.
> >This is called a spring keeper, and it keeps the spring from flying
> >loose if it breaks or comes free from the cable or attachment point.
> >Pick the attachment points so the spring can slide along the keeper as
> >it extends and contracts.
>
> >HTH,
>
> >Paul
>
> OK, so what you are saying is the cable goes thru the inside of the
> springs coil and attaches somewhere to the garage frame, right?
> This makes sense. If there is a picture on a website that would help
> so I know if this cable goes straight or what.....
>
> Buying a new door is not in the budget, and I sort of like my old
> wooden one. These fiberglass doors are ugly. I will replace the
> springs and cables, but that still dont account for metal failure
> since anything can break at any time. I do like the idea of these
> extra cables.
>
> Thanks
>
> Andy- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

-- If there is a picture on a website that would help so I know if
this cable goes straight or what.....

See page 4:

http://www.clopaydoor.com/publicfiles/StndrdExtSpringAssemblyInstruct.pdf




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