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Posted by RBM on July 19, 2007, 7:42 pm
> Hey all!
>
> I am in the early planning stages of what will eventually be a 2 circuit
> wiring job (using NM 12-2) for my new attached garage. But, as you
> might have guessed, I've got a few questions (actually a few more than a
> few) that one of you folks might be able to help me with.
>
> First, I'll fill you in on the background a bit. My ranch house used to
> have a two car garage built into the basement. I didn't like that
> arrangement, so I had a new two car garage built on that end of the
> house (where the old "garage" was). The new garage is fastened to the
> exterior brick wall of the house and opens into the basement (which will
> be finished...in time). The garage roof is built using trusses as
> you'll see in the photos (I'd like to use some of the empty space up
> there for light storage....holiday stuff, small boxes, etc.) The garage
> interior will eventually be drywalled and finished as well.
>
> Anyway, I am now ready to feed electric into the new garage. My current
> intention is to run two circuits - one for the outside outlets / lights,
> and one for the interior outlets / lights.
>
> That being the case, I've been reading up on wiring - both on the
> web/usenet and in several reference books - and I think I'm now ready
> tackle this project. Prior to submitting the permit application,
> however, I'd like to pick some brains on a number of concerns I've
> encountered while planning out the project. I posted some photos of the
> garage to help explain what I'd like to do. Web address is below. So,
> in no particular order, here I go....
>
> 1. What is the appropriate distance above or below an outlet box (and if
> it applies, a switch as well) to drill the hole through the stud? One
> reference calls for 6-8" above or below the box, while the other calls
> for 12" above. Does above or below really matter? What drives the hole
> location? The distance at which you staple the NM to the stud? If it
> makes a difference (though I don't really see why it would), I do plan
> on slapping nail plates on the studs.
>
Just drill the holes in the center of the studs
> 2. When encountering a window (or door), is it best practice to go below
> the window (or above the door) through the cripple studs, or run the
> romex through the attic space? Going through the cripples would save
> romex and the need to protect the cable running through the attic, but
> if there is a compelling reason to go up and over, I will plan it that
> way.
>
> Also, if you go through the cripples, is there a distance away from the
> door/window you have to be? None of my references mention that, though
> they do mention the alternatives I state above. Of course, one of the
> books states that it is also acceptable to run the cable through the
> shimmed space around the door, although I don't think I'd want to do
> that, especially if later owners decide to take the door out and end up
> cutting through the cable.
>
Do what's easiest for you. Sometimes using a little more cable will save a
lot of drilling. Don't install cables anywhere where they could be hit by
nails or screws
> 3. Speaking of running romex in the attic space, I will have to for the
> sake of the outlets in the ceiling powering the garage door openers, as
> well as the three carriage lights on the front of the garage (go from
> one light up into the attic space over the garage doors then down to the
> next). In both cases, the wire will have to run perpendicular to the
> truss bottom chords (again, see pictures for clarification). Can 3/4"
> EMT be used as an adequate protection for the cable for the short runs
> (15' or so) in the attic? My reference books talk about making a track
> out of 2x4s and 2x6s that would sit on top of the chords, but that's a
> bit of a pain, and at current lumber prices, a fair bit more expensive,
> not to mention heavier, and they seem to offer only minimal protection
> from above. If EMT is allowable per the NEC, do I have to run the
> individual wires in it, or can I run the romex as is? I have seen EMT
> run vertically on walls with the romex inside it as is. I know this is
> a heat issue (and hence can result in derating of the romex), and I'm
> curious if the requirements change according to the length of the run
> within the EMT. Also, whether using the track or the EMT, what sort of
> protection do I need to provide for the few inches of exposed wire at
> the ends before the cable is fed back down into the garage wall?
>
Use wood or PVC for suplimental protection. Metal conduits can cut the
plastic and become energized, unless bonded
> 4. On the side of the garage attached to the house, I was planning on
> using 2x2 strips attached to the concrete / brick to support the
> drywall. For electrical cable run along that wall, my intention was to
> use 3/4" EMT and just have rather large notches in the 2x2s (which I
> don't like either, but since I can fasten the boards directly to the old
> exterior wall, it would likely be OK). However, I just started
> wondering whether notching the 2x2s on the back side (against the
> existing house) and running the romex flush against the concrete/brick
> wall would be sufficient (i.e. much smaller notches since the EMT would
> be out of the picture). The wire would be at least as far away from the
> drywall as any other wall in the garage, and there is little worry about
> hitting it from the other side (unless someone decides to bore through
> the 8" of concrete foundation). Thoughts?
>
Notch the back side and use nail plates on the front
> In the end, if I have to go with 2x4s for a "standard" stud wall, I
> guess I will.
>
> 5. Although I can likely work around this, another question pertains to
> drilling up through the bottom chord of the two end trusses to get the
> wire up into the attic space. I don't expect a structural concern since
> they are both fully supported by other means, but I thought I'd ask.
>
> 6. Now, regarding running the two romex cables into the basement (and to
> the service panel), I will have to go through either concrete or brick,
> though I haven't measured yet which one it'll be (probably brick). In
> either case, I'll have a hole going through anywhere from 4 to 8" of
> masonry. Can I feed both runs through a single hole, or should I drill
> two? Not a big deal, just extra effort.
>
One hole is fine, don't make it to small
> 7. Last question....for now anyway....has anyone ever experienced
> interference running electrical along side the control wires for the
> garage door (particularly, these are the ones that lead to the safety
> beams near the bottom of the garage door).
>
> No
> Sorry for the rather lengthy post, but these are the questions that make
> be go hmmmmm....
>
>
>
> Pics of the garage are located at:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/kevindressel/
>
> If you would like to see additional pics, I can certainly accommodate.
>
>
>
> Thank you all a lot on this!
>
> Regards,
> Kevin
>
> P.S. If you respond to me directly, take the _ out of the return email
> address, but I will be checking this newsgroup regularly.
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