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Garage Floor Drain Problem

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Garage Floor Drain Problem d_g_peterson 02-18-2007
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Posted by d_g_peterson on February 18, 2007, 2:09 pm


I have a drainage problem in a newly poured garage floor. Being in
very rural area I had only 1 or 2 contractors to choose from. The
contractor that I hired poured the 4' stem wall, did a great job, but
then failed to follow thru with the slab for amost a month. Kept
saying they were backed up with work. The carpenters that built the
garage claimed to have experience in pouring garage floors, so I
agreed to let them pour. Bad Idea. The floor is 24x28, is 5 inches
thick, and has drain in center. The floor is heated, hydronic pex
tubing. Although I asked that the pitch be set to between 1/8 and 1/4
per foot, it's not even close. Using a laser, I measured at MOST only
1 inch drop from perimeter (about 14') to drain center. My math tells
me that 2 1/2 or more is what I should have. No water drains at all
from any point, and there are several "duck ponds". I suspect
somebody was over-zealous with a power trowel. The guys that did the
work are willing to make good, but I don't think they have a clue as
to how, so... what to do? I thought at first maybe there was some
leveling product or something that could be troweled, but after some
googling I get the impression this won't work (wont stick, will crack,
etc.). The responsible party seems to think the only viable option is
to grind the slab to the correct pitch. Ok, but I am worried about
cutting the hydronic tubing, not knowing exactly how deep it is
embedded. I planned on coating the floor with an epoxy paint, so not
too worried about appearance. Help!

Posted by Steve Barker on February 18, 2007, 2:20 pm




--
Steve Barker
Paola, KS
BNSF (BN) Fort Scott Sub MP 50
Nikon CP 995
www.barkerranch.net



>I have a drainage problem in a newly poured garage floor. Being in
> very rural area I had only 1 or 2 contractors to choose from. The
> contractor that I hired poured the 4' stem wall, did a great job, but
> then failed to follow thru with the slab for amost a month. Kept
> saying they were backed up with work. The carpenters that built the
> garage claimed to have experience in pouring garage floors, so I
> agreed to let them pour. Bad Idea. The floor is 24x28, is 5 inches
> thick, and has drain in center. The floor is heated, hydronic pex
> tubing. Although I asked that the pitch be set to between 1/8 and 1/4
> per foot, it's not even close. Using a laser, I measured at MOST only
> 1 inch drop from perimeter (about 14') to drain center. My math tells
> me that 2 1/2 or more is what I should have. No water drains at all
> from any point, and there are several "duck ponds". I suspect
> somebody was over-zealous with a power trowel. The guys that did the
> work are willing to make good, but I don't think they have a clue as
> to how, so... what to do? I thought at first maybe there was some
> leveling product or something that could be troweled, but after some
> googling I get the impression this won't work (wont stick, will crack,
> etc.). The responsible party seems to think the only viable option is
> to grind the slab to the correct pitch. Ok, but I am worried about
> cutting the hydronic tubing, not knowing exactly how deep it is
> embedded. I planned on coating the floor with an epoxy paint, so not
> too worried about appearance. Help!



Posted by Steve Barker on February 18, 2007, 2:22 pm


Unless they're willing to assume the entire cost of ripping it out, and
replacing it all including the tubing work, then I'd leave it alone. Most
slabs won't run toward a drain, and I personally sure as hell wouldn't want
a 2 1/2" drop in my floor in 14'. I'd feel like a crazy house. A good foam
squeegee is what you need.

--
Steve Barker



>I have a drainage problem in a newly poured garage floor. Being in
> very rural area I had only 1 or 2 contractors to choose from. The
> contractor that I hired poured the 4' stem wall, did a great job, but
> then failed to follow thru with the slab for amost a month. Kept
> saying they were backed up with work. The carpenters that built the
> garage claimed to have experience in pouring garage floors, so I
> agreed to let them pour. Bad Idea. The floor is 24x28, is 5 inches
> thick, and has drain in center. The floor is heated, hydronic pex
> tubing. Although I asked that the pitch be set to between 1/8 and 1/4
> per foot, it's not even close. Using a laser, I measured at MOST only
> 1 inch drop from perimeter (about 14') to drain center. My math tells
> me that 2 1/2 or more is what I should have. No water drains at all
> from any point, and there are several "duck ponds". I suspect
> somebody was over-zealous with a power trowel. The guys that did the
> work are willing to make good, but I don't think they have a clue as
> to how, so... what to do? I thought at first maybe there was some
> leveling product or something that could be troweled, but after some
> googling I get the impression this won't work (wont stick, will crack,
> etc.). The responsible party seems to think the only viable option is
> to grind the slab to the correct pitch. Ok, but I am worried about
> cutting the hydronic tubing, not knowing exactly how deep it is
> embedded. I planned on coating the floor with an epoxy paint, so not
> too worried about appearance. Help!



Posted by hallerb@aol.com on February 18, 2007, 2:30 pm


wrote:
> Unless they're willing to assume the entire cost of ripping it out, and
> replacing it all including the tubing work, then I'd leave it alone. =A0M=
ost
> slabs won't run toward a drain, and I personally sure as hell wouldn't wa=
nt
> a 2 1/2" drop in my floor in 14'. =A0I'd feel like a crazy house. =A0A go=
od foam
> squeegee is what you need.
>
> --
> Steve Barker
>
>
>
>
>
> >I have a drainage problem in a newly poured garage floor. =A0Being in
> > very rural area I had only 1 or 2 contractors to choose from. The
> > contractor that I hired poured the 4' stem wall, did a great job, but
> > then failed to follow thru with the slab for amost a month. Kept
> > saying they were backed up with work. The carpenters that built the
> > garage claimed to have experience in pouring garage floors, so I
> > agreed to let them pour. Bad Idea. The floor is 24x28, is 5 inches
> > thick, and has drain in center. The floor is heated, hydronic pex
> > tubing. =A0Although I asked that the pitch be set to between 1/8 and 1/4
> > per foot, it's not even close. =A0Using a laser, I measured at MOST only
> > 1 inch drop from perimeter (about 14') to drain center. My math tells
> > me that 2 1/2 or more is what I should have. No water drains at all
> > from any point, and there are several "duck ponds". =A0I suspect
> > somebody was over-zealous with a power trowel. =A0The guys that did the
> > work are willing to make good, but I don't think they have a clue as
> > to how, so... what to do? =A0I thought at first maybe there was some
> > leveling product or something that could be troweled, but after some
> > googling I get the impression this won't work (wont stick, will crack,
> > etc.). The responsible party seems to think the only viable option is
> > to grind the slab to the correct pitch. Ok, but I am worried about
> > cutting the hydronic tubing, not knowing exactly how deep it is
> > embedded. =A0I planned on coating the floor with an epoxy paint, so not
> > too worried about appearance. =A0Help!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Well my first home had a garage floor drain and that type of slope, it
was a non issue.

sadly I think ripping it up and starting over is all thats available:(

If yoiur willing to live with it a BIG discount is due from the
contractor.......

I had a imiliar issue with my asphalt driveway they sloped it the
wrong way and left some puddles which are a hazard every winter,
creating icy patches..........

I would have them rip it up and start over including all new heat
lines. Its a cost of doing business for the contractor and they
WOULDNT do it again!


Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on February 18, 2007, 3:11 pm



> I thought at first maybe there was some
> leveling product or something that could be troweled, but after some
> googling I get the impression this won't work (wont stick, will crack,
> etc.). The responsible party seems to think the only viable option is
> to grind the slab to the correct pitch. Ok, but I am worried about
> cutting the hydronic tubing, not knowing exactly how deep it is
> embedded.

Go to http://www.mcmaster.com/ and page 1977. Problem solved.



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