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Posted by wrldruler on August 21, 2008, 3:52 pm
Hello,
I am converting my garage into a living room, and have a question
about framing.
I have 11 foot ceilings, soon to be 10 foot once I add the floor. 7'
is 2x4, and the bottom
3' is concrete block.
Of course, the block sticks out further than the 2x4. I need advice on
how best to even this wall out. I want to add a 1x3 or 2x3 frame from
floor to ceiling, and then drywall.
I've been told that 4" of insuation (R13) is enough, so I do not
intend to bring out the 2x4
any further.
This new frame will be flush against my block, but there will be a 7"+
gap between the frame and the 2x4's.
Two questions:
(1) Will a 1x3 frame be strong enough to support 10' of drywall? Or do
I need a 2x3?
(2) What do I do with the 7"+ gap between the frame and the existing
2x4's? Do I leave it alone, pack with more insulation ???
Thanks,
Chris
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Posted by Oren on August 21, 2008, 4:05 pm
On Thu, 21 Aug 2008 12:52:57 -0700 (PDT), wrldruler
>Hello,
>
>I am converting my garage into a living room, and have a question
>about framing.
>
>I have 11 foot ceilings, soon to be 10 foot once I add the floor. 7'
>is 2x4, and the bottom
>3' is concrete block.
>
>Of course, the block sticks out further than the 2x4. I need advice on
>how best to even this wall out. I want to add a 1x3 or 2x3 frame from
>floor to ceiling, and then drywall.
>
>I've been told that 4" of insuation (R13) is enough, so I do not
>intend to bring out the 2x4
>any further.
>
>This new frame will be flush against my block, but there will be a 7"+
>gap between the frame and the 2x4's.
>
>Two questions:
>
>(1) Will a 1x3 frame be strong enough to support 10' of drywall? Or do
>I need a 2x3?
>
>(2) What do I do with the 7"+ gap between the frame and the existing
>2x4's? Do I leave it alone, pack with more insulation ???
>
>Thanks,
>
>Chris
Will you have a doorway passage EXIT from this area to the driveway?
Contact your local permit office.
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Posted by dpb on August 21, 2008, 4:17 pm
wrldruler wrote:
...
> I have 11 foot ceilings, soon to be 10 foot once I add the floor. 7'
> is 2x4, and the bottom 3' is concrete block.
>
> Of course, the block sticks out further than the 2x4. I need advice on
> how best to even this wall out. I want to add a 1x3 or 2x3 frame from
> floor to ceiling, and then drywall.
>
> I've been told that 4" of insuation (R13) is enough, so I do not
> intend to bring out the 2x4 any further.
>
> This new frame will be flush against my block, but there will be a 7"+
> gap between the frame and the 2x4's.
>
> Two questions:
>
> (1) Will a 1x3 frame be strong enough to support 10' of drywall? Or do
> I need a 2x3?
>
> (2) What do I do with the 7"+ gap between the frame and the existing
> 2x4's? Do I leave it alone, pack with more insulation ???
I'd question the absolute need to make the wall surface flat the whole
way -- make the difference a "feature" instead would be one way.
On the specific questions -- unless you're in a very mild climate, I'd
recommend since you've got the space anyway to add at least R-19.
Energy costs are going nowhere but up so in the long run it'll pay and
the incremental cost since you have the room is minimal. You'll
definitely want some high-density insulation over that section of block
wall, though, or you'll have a cold radiator behind the wallboard
forever that will make it very uncomfortable living space in winters or
require far more heating than it should (again, unless you're in a very
temperate zone).
1x3's will be strong enough but on edge won't supply enough nailing
profile and on face won't be rigid enough. Your choice really is to
frame an interior wall inside the exterior if you're determined to make
the wall one plane. Might be good place for metal studs on that inner.
Discussed insulation earlier...more is almost always better,
particularly when it doesn't/won't cost anything more in construction
than not.
--
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Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on August 21, 2008, 9:10 pm
>
> This new frame will be flush against my block, but there will be a 7"+
> gap between the frame and the 2x4's.
>
> Two questions:
>
> (1) Will a 1x3 frame be strong enough to support 10' of drywall? Or do
> I need a 2x3?
>
> (2) What do I do with the 7"+ gap between the frame and the existing
> 2x4's? Do I leave it alone, pack with more insulation ???
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris
As for the added insulation, that depends on your climate. Very cold --
yes, but if temperate, little advantage.
As for the difference in thickness, you can make it in two sections. My
house is what is known as a split entry or raised ranch. It is a very
common style here and the lower level is down about 4' below grade with a
concrete foundation. The most common finishing method is to frame the
concrete section with 2 x 4 and leave the upper section with the 2 x 4 (or
6) as built. Then the top of the concrete is framed with 1 x 3 and a
finished shelf is put on top. A little trim and you have a shelf on the
outer wall. Paint or stain as desired.
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Posted by cshenk on August 21, 2008, 11:55 pm
"wrldruler" wrote
> I have 11 foot ceilings, soon to be 10 foot once I add the floor. 7'
> is 2x4, and the bottom
> 3' is concrete block.
>
> Of course, the block sticks out further than the 2x4. I need advice on
> how best to even this wall out. I want to add a 1x3 or 2x3 frame from
> floor to ceiling, and then drywall.
Need 2x3 or 2x4 or it will be very awkward to nail the drywall to something
as thin as a 1x3. Yes, it can be done, but it wont be easy and it may not
be all that stable.
> I've been told that 4" of insuation (R13) is enough, so I do not
> intend to bring out the 2x4
> any further.
Where are you climate wise? Thats makes a big difference. You need to
insulate the blocks in a cold climate (but in a hot one, not so much as the
walls above). I had an apartment (town house) once with a finished garage a
bit like this in each unit. They were not finished the same so I'll
describe both.
Here's what he did in mine. He actually extended out the cinderblocks a
little with some sort of false brick (about 1 inch thick it seemed) and ran
a nice molding ontop of it. Then above he used 2 of the sections between
the framing to make recessed book shelves. Behind it, he said he had 3
layers of the best 'thin board insulation' he could get. He then layered
the inside with some wood that when painted looked lots like drywall. IE:
it didnt look like cheap plywood just painted. The walls elsewhere were
filled fat as he could with insulation (2 layers of R13? Not really sure)
then mine had a nice wood paneling added on 3 walls and the 4th was false
brick to the ceiling (the one against the house). Code note: Both had
doors to the kitchen and an added door at the old front where the garage
was. It was required there.
The other one also used the cinderblock to be a 'feature' but there he used
drywall above (same inset book shelves and insulation) and below he used
some premade wainscot stained wood panels mounted flush to the blocks. They
were slightly higher so he made a little wood strip on hinges in 3ft
sections that you could lift it up and the wiring was run through there with
the outlets above. No you couldnt open them without a screwdriver. He used
some simple brushed brass angle fittings like you might see on an oriental
jewlrey box (toddler protection, possibly code required as well). Oh, where
I had the full false brick wall, he had wallpaper above the wainscot lower
section.
Lots of variations on what you can do!
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