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Garage Pad and concrete block

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Garage Pad and concrete block dbuckley 07-12-2005
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Posted by on July 12, 2005, 11:07 am


I'm building a 24 x 28 garage/shop and would like to have more than an
8 foot ceiling height in it. It's going to be a 4" monolithic pad and
I was thinking of laying 1 or 2 courses of 8" concrete block and
building with standard studs to keep from doing lots of cutting. One
corner of the pad will be about 16" - 20" below grade, but I won't be
backfilling around it, so I think I will be ok.

Some questions...
1. Any issues with this approach for increased height? Will put j
bolts in block and pressure treated sil plate.

2. When running the electrical conduit (stand alone garage), would you
run the underground conduit through the floor/block so it goes straight
up the inside walls?

3. If I am using 1 or 2 courses of block, is there a recommended way
of tilting up the stick framed walls onto the block/sill plate?

4. any general suggestion/things to look out for?



Posted by SQLit on July 12, 2005, 11:47 am



> I'm building a 24 x 28 garage/shop and would like to have more than an
> 8 foot ceiling height in it. It's going to be a 4" monolithic pad and
> I was thinking of laying 1 or 2 courses of 8" concrete block and
> building with standard studs to keep from doing lots of cutting. One
> corner of the pad will be about 16" - 20" below grade, but I won't be
> backfilling around it, so I think I will be ok.
>
> Some questions...
> 1. Any issues with this approach for increased height? Will put j
> bolts in block and pressure treated sil plate.

What does your zoning requirements say? Where I live you will not be
building walls on a 4 inch pad even with steel in it. Wall require a
foundation, where I live that would be a stem and footer.
Stems are a mininium of 24 inches wide and 12 inches deep. Footers are
usually 8 inches thick and height as needed.

> 2. When running the electrical conduit (stand alone garage), would you
> run the underground conduit through the floor/block so it goes straight
> up the inside walls?

Sure would depend on the lay out of the building for me. I have done it both
ways. Conduit is more expensive but changeable. Last garage I did was with
3000 Wiremold. Got the Wiremold for a song and then I could just put what I
wanted where I wanted.

> 3. If I am using 1 or 2 courses of block, is there a recommended way
> of tilting up the stick framed walls onto the block/sill plate?

See number 1


> 4. any general suggestion/things to look out for?

Call the zoning folks and have a visit with them before you walk off that
short pier. Could save ya a peck of trouble.




Posted by on July 12, 2005, 12:14 pm


Sorry, let me clarify, monolithic pad that is 4" in middle and has 12"
on the edges.



Posted by SQLit on July 12, 2005, 9:13 pm

> After the last one had me going, I can't wait to see how this one
> transpires..
> Searcher
>
The last one In retrospect dumping the salt OUT OF the bags into wheel
barrow ( clean) spreading around the pool with shovel might of been a better
idea, to bad I didn't think of that.



Posted by on July 12, 2005, 3:16 pm



>What does your zoning requirements say? Where I live you will not be
>building walls on a 4 inch pad even with steel in it. Wall require a
>foundation, where I live that would be a stem and footer.
>Stems are a mininium of 24 inches wide and 12 inches deep. Footers are
>usually 8 inches thick and height as needed.


I second that. In S Fla where frost heaving is not an issue we still
need a 8" deep x 12" wide "bell" around the perimeter of a slab we are
building on. It needs 2 #5 rebar in it.
If you are anywhere that the ground freezes this footer must be below
the frost line.

If uplift is not an issue you can just imbed J bolts in the top course
of the block wall to anchor the stick built wall. If this is a wind
code area you need rebar tied to the footer steel, extending up to the
top 2 courses of the block that are poured solid with #5 rebar across
the top of that in "U" block.
The wall gets bolted to that with straps into the studs and straps
from the top of the studs, over the trusses.




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