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Garage Pad and concrete block

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Garage Pad and concrete block dbuckley 07-12-2005
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Posted by Wes Stewart on July 12, 2005, 12:54 pm


On 12 Jul 2005 11:07:12 -0700, dbuckley@mail.com wrote:

>I'm building a 24 x 28 garage/shop and would like to have more than an
>8 foot ceiling height in it. It's going to be a 4" monolithic pad and
>I was thinking of laying 1 or 2 courses of 8" concrete block and
>building with standard studs to keep from doing lots of cutting. One
>corner of the pad will be about 16" - 20" below grade, but I won't be
>backfilling around it, so I think I will be ok.
>
>Some questions...
>1. Any issues with this approach for increased height? Will put j
>bolts in block and pressure treated sil plate.

The main issue I have is why. If you're intent on a CMU stem wall,
why not just pour a standard footing and build up from there? If
you're intent on the monopour then use longer studs. You don't say
-how much- higher than 8' you want. If it's say 10', buy 12 footers
and whack them off. You'll need the offcuts for blocking anyway.
>
>2. When running the electrical conduit (stand alone garage), would you
>run the underground conduit through the floor/block so it goes straight
>up the inside walls?

No. My house is CMU/slab on grade and I hate having wiring and
plumbing buried in concrete. I'm doing a bath remodel and have to
change some plumbing in an exterior wall. What a PITA.

>
>3. If I am using 1 or 2 courses of block, is there a recommended way
>of tilting up the stick framed walls onto the block/sill plate?

Depends on how much muscle you have. I built my garage mostly by
myself. 2 X 6 X 12' DF studs with the stem about 6" above the slab.
I'm a ham radio operator and had some sections of steel radio tower
around that I used as gin poles for some lifting when working alone.
(I used the same technique to lift the 30' I-joists and the 8 X 12 X
16' garage door headers) Otherwise my neighbor and I were able to tip
up 12' wall sections but it's tricky. A couple of more hands would
make it -much- easier. Nail on the braces with one nail before
lifting so that you only have to nail off the bottom end when the wall
is plumb.

>
>4. any general suggestion/things to look out for?

Make the slab 2" thicker and use some rebar.



Posted by Mike Dobony on July 12, 2005, 10:06 pm

> After the last one had me going, I can't wait to see how this one
> transpires..
> Searcher
>
The last one In retrospect dumping the salt OUT OF the bags into wheel
barrow ( clean) spreading around the pool with shovel might of been a better
idea, to bad I didn't think of that.



Posted by Big_Jake on July 13, 2005, 12:26 am

> After the last one had me going, I can't wait to see how this one
> transpires..
> Searcher
>
The last one In retrospect dumping the salt OUT OF the bags into wheel
barrow ( clean) spreading around the pool with shovel might of been a better
idea, to bad I didn't think of that.



Posted by HerHusband on July 13, 2005, 10:11 am


> I'm building a 24 x 28 garage/shop and would like to have more than an
> 8 foot ceiling height in it. It's going to be a 4" monolithic pad and
> I was thinking of laying 1 or 2 courses of 8" concrete block and
> building with standard studs to keep from doing lots of cutting. One
> corner of the pad will be about 16" - 20" below grade, but I won't be
> backfilling around it, so I think I will be ok.

"Thickened Edge Monolithic Slabs" are common here in the Pacific Northwest,
but see your "Garage Height" thread to see my reasons why I decided against
that type of foundation.

I recommend a standard footing, with perimeter foundation wall. Then pour
your non-structural slab.

> 2. When running the electrical conduit (stand alone garage), would you
> run the underground conduit through the floor/block so it goes straight
> up the inside walls?

I chose to run my conduit up through the footing and perimeter foundation
wall (before we poured the concrete). This keeps it out of sight, and
provides a little extra protection.

The alternative is to run the conduit on the exterior of the building, then
punch a hole through the wall to connect to your electrical panel. Seems
messy and more vulnerable to me.

I installed two 2" conduits for electrical, two 3/4" conduits for phone or
other use, and a couple of 1" PVC pipes before I poured the footing/wall. I
only used one of each, but it was easier to install the extras now in case
I need them in the future.

> 3. If I am using 1 or 2 courses of block, is there a recommended way
> of tilting up the stick framed walls onto the block/sill plate?

My wife and I worked alone, and built our walls in 8' sections. I cut all
the PT sills to length first, drilled the holes for the anchor bolts, and
made sure they all fit before proceding. Then, I framed up the wall section
on the garage slab, and nailed on the plywood siding. I placed a foam "sill
sealer" on top of the foundation, then my wife and I got on each side of
the wall, and lifted the bottom edge up onto the foundation. We then moved
down to the top end of the wall, and tilted it up into place. She held the
wall plumb while I banged it into position, loosely tightened the nuts on
the anchor bolts, and nailed it in place. Any "stubborn" walls that didn't
line up right were easily coaxed into place using pipe clamps to pull the
wall sections together. It's a bit more difficult than just tilting up on a
flat floor, but not much.

Anthony


Posted by on July 14, 2005, 5:01 am


good to know and thanks for the info...how did you connect the 8'
sections together? by nailing the studs on the edge together? does
this cause any structural strength loss at all?



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