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Subject Author Date
Garage door insulation Walter Cohen 09-30-2006
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Posted by Joseph Meehan on October 1, 2006, 3:13 pm
edavid3001@gmail.com wrote:
> My garage is insulated above it and in the walls. I suffer the
> problem of the OP. My garage door leaks a lot of air because of gaps
> when shut. While I do not heat the garage, it does keep warmer
> which is nice. I've always wondered how to properly fill the gaps,
> considering I have an arched garage entry.

Mine is much the same, and it does stay warmer in the winter and cooler
in the summer. However I don't recommend trying to seal it up. I like it
loose. If you were to seal it well, you would be sealing in all the
moisture that comes in with the cars and would likely end up with more rust
etc.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit



AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc.
Posted by on October 2, 2006, 9:49 am
> loose. If you were to seal it well, you would be sealing in all the
> moisture that comes in with the cars and would likely end up with more rust
> etc.

Yes, it is very dry in the garage right now. I have wood stairs in
there up to the house that are not stained. They are 7 years old and
in almost new condition.


Posted by Phisherman on October 1, 2006, 11:28 am
On Sat, 30 Sep 2006 20:37:43 -0400, "Walter Cohen"

>I have two wooden garage doors (home is 45 years old and doors seem to be
>also). For the most part they work well in the original tracks as far as
>going up and down with my Craftsman openers. However they never do (and
>never did) seem to fit real well when they are closed shut. I can see light
>at the top and at certain areas along each side.
>My HVAC guy mentioned that I really should try to have the doors insulated -
>meaning the endges, so that it makes a reasonable seal during both winter
>and summer seasons to help out a bit with air infiltration. He said this
>type of around the door insulation could be gotten from Home Depot.
>
>If the doors don't ever seem to close tightly in the first place will any
>side molding insulation really do anything? I'm thinking that if anything
>it might further interfere with the travel of the doors and ultimately get
>rubbed or torn off anyway.
>
>Thoghts on this?
>Thanks.
>Walter
>

Mine don't seal tightly, but I consider that a good thing. The bottom
6" of garage space is full of toxic fumes so the cracks help ventilate
the garage.

Posted by Pop`ö on October 4, 2006, 1:43 pm


Walter Cohen wrote:
> I have two wooden garage doors (home is 45 years old and doors seem
> to be also). For the most part they work well in the original tracks
> as far as going up and down with my Craftsman openers. However they
> never do (and never did) seem to fit real well when they are closed
> shut. I can see light at the top and at certain areas along each
> side.

Possible causes:
-- Door not closing completely, pushing the top in against the top of the
opening.
-- Worn or loose trim.
The door should "pop" a little when you pull the emergency release
rope/handle.
There should be a springy mechanism, usually part of the emergency
release, where as the door finishes the last inch or so of movement, the
spring compresses, pushing the top firmly against the opening.

> My HVAC guy mentioned that I really should try to have the doors
> insulated - meaning the endges, so that it makes a reasonable seal
> during both winter and summer seasons to help out a bit with air
> infiltration. He said this type of around the door insulation could
> be gotten from Home Depot.

Yes, it can, and it's not expensive, it's easy to apply, and works well.
Definitely a DIY project for an afternoon.
>
> If the doors don't ever seem to close tightly in the first place will
> any side molding insulation really do anything?

It IS possible the tracks are misaligned and they aren't holding the door
close enough to the opening, but it sounds like your guy would have noticed
if that were the problem. It has to be a loose fit in order for the door to
be able to slide up and down without being stuck by pressing against the
frame.

Yes. That is the purpose of such insulation. Most any garage door will let
you see light along the sides in places and at the top, too. It's more a
trim than it is an insulation and simply lightly presses against the door
edges (sides and top) to complete the seal.

I'm thinking that if
> anything it might further interfere with the travel of the doors and
> ultimately get rubbed or torn off anyway.

We've lived here 14 years now. The seals (insulation in your constext
apparently) are just now beginning to show wear. I re-hammered the staples
last year to reseat it, and it still works well. I'm hoping to get around
to replacing it this fall.

It's just sort of a flexible "lip" that nails to the frame and when the door
comes down, it slips up against it and seals the openings.
Heated or not, they're very handy since they keep out dust and dirt and,
if it's an attached garage, it also keeps the cold wind from refilling the
garage as the cold air slowly leaks into the house walls and house itself.

HTH
Pop`

>
> Thoghts on this?
> Thanks.
> Walter




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