Garage door - round II

Posted by MikeB on October 8, 2009, 7:28 pm

And so it starts. Some of you may recall I had a garage door replaced
(http://groups.google.com/group/alt.home.repair/browse_frm/thread/
5fa483212a08b839 - hope the link works)

Well, it everything seemed OK, but last night the door started to
refuse to close. It would go down to about 12 incehs from the ground
and then reverse. In the past that meant that there were stuff haning
off the bottom of the door (spiderwebs with leaves) that interrupted
the optical line to stop the door from closing. However, in those
cases the door would make a loud clicking noise and the light would
flash 3 times. Now none of this happeded.

I unhooked the door from the automatic opener and it went down
smoothly enough. Once it was closed, the opener would run down fine
and relatch as well. I was baffled.

I put in a call to the guy who installed the door and he came out. He
apologized and said that he forgot to adjust the opener. He made some
adjustments and the door started closing again. However, now if one
tries to obstruct the door, it requires significant more force before
the door would reverse direction. I'm thinking this door made of 24-
guage steel is substantially lighter than the old wooden door? Then is
my garage door handyman trying to hide a installation flaw by turning
up the force of the closer?

Are there online specs I can look up to determine the settings on my
garage door opener and verify that they are set correctly? It is a
Liftmaster Professional 1/2 hp.

Thanks.

Posted by BQ340 on October 8, 2009, 8:32 pm

MikeB wrote:

> And so it starts. Some of you may recall I had a garage door replaced
> (http://groups.google.com/group/alt.home.repair/browse_frm/thread/
> 5fa483212a08b839 - hope the link works)
>
> Well, it everything seemed OK, but last night the door started to
> refuse to close. It would go down to about 12 incehs from the ground
> and then reverse. In the past that meant that there were stuff haning
> off the bottom of the door (spiderwebs with leaves) that interrupted
> the optical line to stop the door from closing. However, in those
> cases the door would make a loud clicking noise and the light would
> flash 3 times. Now none of this happeded.
>
> I unhooked the door from the automatic opener and it went down
> smoothly enough. Once it was closed, the opener would run down fine
> and relatch as well. I was baffled.
>
> I put in a call to the guy who installed the door and he came out. He
> apologized and said that he forgot to adjust the opener. He made some
> adjustments and the door started closing again. However, now if one
> tries to obstruct the door, it requires significant more force before
> the door would reverse direction. I'm thinking this door made of 24-
> guage steel is substantially lighter than the old wooden door? Then is
> my garage door handyman trying to hide a installation flaw by turning
> up the force of the closer?
>
> Are there online specs I can look up to determine the settings on my
> garage door opener and verify that they are set correctly? It is a
> Liftmaster Professional 1/2 hp.
>
> Thanks.

The opener should reverse it it detects only a few pounds of pressure.
When you tried it by hand did it start bind even slightly toward the
end? Usually either the tracks flare inward pinching the rollers or the
track is too close to the wall at the bottom when that happens.

MikeB

Posted by MikeB on October 8, 2009, 9:32 pm

> MikeB wrote:

> > And so it starts. Some of you may recall I had a garage door replaced
> > (http://groups.google.com/group/alt.home.repair/browse_frm/thread/
> > 5fa483212a08b839 - hope the link works)
> > Well, it everything seemed OK, but last night the door started to
> > refuse to close. It would go down to about 12 incehs from the ground
> > and then reverse. In the past that meant that there were stuff haning
> > off the bottom of the door (spiderwebs with leaves) that interrupted
> > the optical line to stop the door from closing. However, in those
> > cases the door would make a loud clicking noise and the light would
> > flash 3 times. Now none of this happeded.
> > I unhooked the door from the automatic opener and it went down
> > smoothly enough. Once it was closed, the opener would run down fine
> > and relatch as well. I was baffled.
> > I put in a call to the guy who installed the door and he came out. He
> > apologized and said that he forgot to adjust the opener. He made some
> > adjustments and the door started closing again. However, now if one
> > tries to obstruct the door, it requires significant more force before
> > the door would reverse direction. I'm thinking this door made of 24-
> > guage steel is substantially lighter than the old wooden door? Then is
> > my garage door handyman trying to hide a installation flaw by turning
> > up the force of the closer?
> > Are there online specs I can look up to determine the settings on my
> > garage door opener and verify that they are set correctly? It is a
> > Liftmaster Professional 1/2 hp.
> > Thanks.

> The opener should reverse it it detects only a few pounds of pressure.
> When you tried it by hand did it start bind even slightly toward the
> end? Usually either the tracks flare inward pinching the rollers or the
> track is too close to the wall at the bottom when that happens.
> MikeB

Do you mean "bend?"

I'm surprised, it worked fine since Thursday last week, but started
giving trouble as of last night.

Posted by BQ340 on October 8, 2009, 9:47 pm

MikeB wrote:

>> MikeB wrote:

>>> And so it starts. Some of you may recall I had a garage door replaced
>>> (http://groups.google.com/group/alt.home.repair/browse_frm/thread/
>>> 5fa483212a08b839 - hope the link works)
>>> Well, it everything seemed OK, but last night the door started to
>>> refuse to close. It would go down to about 12 incehs from the ground
>>> and then reverse. In the past that meant that there were stuff haning
>>> off the bottom of the door (spiderwebs with leaves) that interrupted
>>> the optical line to stop the door from closing. However, in those
>>> cases the door would make a loud clicking noise and the light would
>>> flash 3 times. Now none of this happeded.
>>> I unhooked the door from the automatic opener and it went down
>>> smoothly enough. Once it was closed, the opener would run down fine
>>> and relatch as well. I was baffled.
>>> I put in a call to the guy who installed the door and he came out. He
>>> apologized and said that he forgot to adjust the opener. He made some
>>> adjustments and the door started closing again. However, now if one
>>> tries to obstruct the door, it requires significant more force before
>>> the door would reverse direction. I'm thinking this door made of 24-
>>> guage steel is substantially lighter than the old wooden door? Then is
>>> my garage door handyman trying to hide a installation flaw by turning
>>> up the force of the closer?
>>> Are there online specs I can look up to determine the settings on my
>>> garage door opener and verify that they are set correctly? It is a
>>> Liftmaster Professional 1/2 hp.
>>> Thanks.

>> The opener should reverse it it detects only a few pounds of pressure.
>> When you tried it by hand did it start bind even slightly toward the
>> end? Usually either the tracks flare inward pinching the rollers or the
>> track is too close to the wall at the bottom when that happens.
>> MikeB

>
> Do you mean "bend?"
>
> I'm surprised, it worked fine since Thursday last week, but started
> giving trouble as of last night.

No, bind -as in more force to close the door.

You might see it as a "littler harder but not very much" towards the end
of travel & the opener sees it as "downforce limit exceeded, reverse now"

Wood framing swells/moves with temp/humidity, maybe either or both has
changed since installation?

MikeB

Posted by hr(bob) hofmann@att.net on October 8, 2009, 9:53 pm

> > MikeB wrote:

> > > And so it starts. Some of you may recall I had a garage door replaced
> > > (http://groups.google.com/group/alt.home.repair/browse_frm/thread/
> > > 5fa483212a08b839 - hope the link works)
> > > Well, it everything seemed OK, but last night the door started to
> > > refuse to close. It would go down to about 12 incehs from the ground
> > > and then reverse. In the past that meant that there were stuff haning
> > > off the bottom of the door (spiderwebs with leaves) that interrupted
> > > the optical line to stop the door from closing. However, in those
> > > cases the door would make a loud clicking noise and the light would
> > > flash 3 times. Now none of this happeded.
> > > I unhooked the door from the automatic opener and it went down
> > > smoothly enough. Once it was closed, the opener would run down fine
> > > and relatch as well. I was baffled.
> > > I put in a call to the guy who installed the door and he came out. He
> > > apologized and said that he forgot to adjust the opener. He made some
> > > adjustments and the door started closing again. However, now if one
> > > tries to obstruct the door, it requires significant more force before
> > > the door would reverse direction. I'm thinking this door made of 24-
> > > guage steel is substantially lighter than the old wooden door? Then i=

> > > my garage door handyman trying to hide a installation flaw by turning
> > > up the force of the closer?
> > > Are there online specs I can look up to determine the settings on my
> > > garage door opener and verify that they are set correctly? It is a
> > > Liftmaster Professional 1/2 hp.
> > > Thanks.

> > The opener should reverse it it detects only a few pounds of pressure.
> > When you tried it by hand did it start bind even slightly toward the
> > end? Usually either the tracks flare inward pinching the rollers or the
> > track is too close to the wall at the bottom when that happens.
> > MikeB

> Do you mean "bend?"
> I'm surprised, it worked fine since Thursday last week, but started
> giving trouble as of last night.- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

Do you have the instruction booklet? It should show what to adjust
and say how to do it. Most openers have one or two knob adjustments
and aren't any big deal to set properly. First the door must go up
and down smoothly without the opener being connected. There should be
a release to undo the door so it can be operated manually in case of a
power failure. Disconnect the door and see that it moves smoothly
from top to bottom. It should be balanced so that it starts to close
by itself when about 2/3 of the way down, and be more or less neutral
when halfway down.

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