Garage door - round II

Posted by C & E on October 8, 2009, 8:52 pm

He made some adjustments and the door started closing again. However, now if
one tries to obstruct the door, it requires significant more force before
the door would reverse direction. I'm thinking this door made of 24-

> guage steel is substantially lighter than the old wooden door? Then is my
> garage door handyman trying to hide a installation flaw by turning up the
> force of the closer?
<snip>
> Thanks.

Too bad you didn't think to ask the man who actually installed it while he
was there, willing and eager to fix his minorly flawed job. Now, a call to
him makes you a PITA.

Posted by MikeB on October 8, 2009, 9:30 pm

> And so it starts. Some of you may recall I had a garage door replaced

> > (http://groups.google.com/group/alt.home.repair/browse_frm/thread/
> > 5fa483212a08b839 - hope the link works)
> > Well, it everything seemed OK, but last night the door started to refus=

> > to close.

> He made some adjustments and the door started closing again. However, now=

> one tries to obstruct the door, it requires significant more force before
> the door would reverse direction. I'm thinking this door made of 24-

> > guage steel is substantially lighter than the old wooden door? Then is =

> > garage door handyman trying to hide a installation flaw by turning up t=

> > force of the closer?
> > Thanks.

> Too bad you didn't think to ask the man who actually installed it while h=

> was there, willing and eager to fix his minorly flawed job. =A0Now, a cal=

l to

> him makes you a PITA.

What should I ask him? If he is hiding an installation defect? If he
is, is he going to admit it? the guy who came out is the same guy that
did the original work. He did say that he should have made an
adjustment to the opener and forgot, but it is my fear that he has
made he wrong type of adjustment.

I'm using this ng as a resource to validate the work he has done.

Posted by Pat on October 8, 2009, 11:06 pm

I'm using this ng as a resource to validate the work he has done.

We can't validate it because we can't examine it. Perhaps you should hire a
different mechanic for a second opinion?

Posted by MikeB on October 9, 2009, 9:12 am

> I'm using this ng as a resource to validate the work he has done.
> We can't validate it because we can't examine it. =A0Perhaps you should h=

ire a

> different mechanic for a second opinion?

Probably should have said "sanity check."

Posted by Tony on October 9, 2009, 7:18 pm

MikeB wrote:

> And so it starts. Some of you may recall I had a garage door replaced
> (http://groups.google.com/group/alt.home.repair/browse_frm/thread/
> 5fa483212a08b839 - hope the link works)
>
> Well, it everything seemed OK, but last night the door started to
> refuse to close. It would go down to about 12 incehs from the ground
> and then reverse. In the past that meant that there were stuff haning
> off the bottom of the door (spiderwebs with leaves) that interrupted
> the optical line to stop the door from closing. However, in those
> cases the door would make a loud clicking noise and the light would
> flash 3 times. Now none of this happeded.
>
> I unhooked the door from the automatic opener and it went down
> smoothly enough. Once it was closed, the opener would run down fine
> and relatch as well. I was baffled.
>
> I put in a call to the guy who installed the door and he came out. He
> apologized and said that he forgot to adjust the opener. He made some
> adjustments and the door started closing again. However, now if one
> tries to obstruct the door, it requires significant more force before
> the door would reverse direction. I'm thinking this door made of 24-
> guage steel is substantially lighter than the old wooden door? Then is
> my garage door handyman trying to hide a installation flaw by turning
> up the force of the closer?
>
> Are there online specs I can look up to determine the settings on my
> garage door opener and verify that they are set correctly? It is a
> Liftmaster Professional 1/2 hp.

Sounds like he forgot to adjust it, then when he did, he went overboard
and adjusted it too far so he wouldn't hear from you again. Little did
he know that *you* know how the safety feature is supposed to work. Get
a ladder and look for adjustments on it. Look for one marked "force",
or "down force", "closing force". Find a happy medium between it not
closing and it having too much closing force. While doing this also
test stopping and starting it at different positions. Mine took a
little fine adjustment there.

A quick search looks like the "Liftmaster" is just a model or line of
Chamberlain openers. Find the exact model number on the unit if you
want to search for a manual.

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Garage door - round II - Page 2