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Garage perimiter with 4" block?

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Garage perimiter with 4" block? dbuckley 07-25-2005
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Posted by Harry K on July 28, 2005, 6:45 am




dbuckley@mail.com wrote:
> Harry K, you'll be happy to know that I talked to the building
> inspector and told him I was going to use 8" block...
>
> I would like to thank everyone for their posts. It's good to hear
> consistent information.

Just a bit more add on. Someone else suggested hiring the job out. I
agree if you have never layed block before. It is a tiring,
frustrating job for an amatuer and very difficult to do well the first
time (or even the 5th or 6th in my case).

The first layer of block -should- be locked to the slab in some
fashion, pinned with rebar is the usual every so many blocks (building
dept again). Then every so many cores must be filled. Again building
department. That is all to ensure the kneewall, slab, and garage
remain connected.

I can't tell what your expertise is in building so if you have done it,
just ignore this post.

Harry K



Posted by SQLit on July 25, 2005, 12:22 pm



> Building a 24X28 garage. Any reason that I have to use 8x8x16 concrete
> block for the base (2 courses) instead of 4x8x16 block? Since I am
> framing with 2x4, seems that using 4" block wouldn't be an issue? But
> I am a novice.
>
> Thanks.


Where I live stem wall are a minimum of 8 inches wide.

What does the building department in your area say?

Lots of things to consider, height, use, are you planning on hoisting
anything from the structure?
frost or water tables.




Posted by Rick on July 25, 2005, 3:48 pm




dbuckley@mail.com wrote:
> Building a 24X28 garage. Any reason that I have to use 8x8x16 concrete
> block for the base (2 courses) instead of 4x8x16 block? Since I am
> framing with 2x4, seems that using 4" block wouldn't be an issue? But
> I am a novice.
>
> Thanks.

When you started the other thread I was going to suggest you hire an
experienced mason to lay the block. I'll do that now. He'll be done
(and you'll be ready to start framing) long before you would get the
first course done on one side satisfactorily.

Masonry is one of those skills that looks really easy when you see
someone else do it (unless you just have a knack for it). But if you
want to try it, more power to you...



Posted by clintonG on July 25, 2005, 7:28 pm


The 4" block do not provide enough 'footing' to prevent the block from
rotating (tip over) which can theoretically occur when the walls of the
garage are subjected to heavy loads (wind, snow, soil) causing the walls to
bow inwards (diaphragm).

<%= Clinton Gallagher
METROmilwaukee (sm) "A Regional Information Service"
NET csgallagher AT metromilwaukee.com
URL http://metromilwaukee.com/
URL http://clintongallagher.metromilwaukee.com/




> Building a 24X28 garage. Any reason that I have to use 8x8x16 concrete
> block for the base (2 courses) instead of 4x8x16 block? Since I am
> framing with 2x4, seems that using 4" block wouldn't be an issue? But
> I am a novice.
>
> Thanks.
>




Posted by Harry K on July 25, 2005, 12:42 pm




clintonG wrote:
> The 4" block do not provide enough 'footing' to prevent the block from
> rotating (tip over) which can theoretically occur when the walls of the
> garage are subjected to heavy loads (wind, snow, soil) causing the walls to
> bow inwards (diaphragm).
>
> <%= Clinton Gallagher
> METROmilwaukee (sm) "A Regional Information Service"
> NET csgallagher AT metromilwaukee.com
> URL http://metromilwaukee.com/
> URL http://clintongallagher.metromilwaukee.com/
>
>
>
>
> > Building a 24X28 garage. Any reason that I have to use 8x8x16 concrete
> > block for the base (2 courses) instead of 4x8x16 block? Since I am
> > framing with 2x4, seems that using 4" block wouldn't be an issue? But
> > I am a novice.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >

Use whatever the building department says, I suspect it will be 8". If
you have never layed block before, you will find 8" enough of a problem
to lay well, 4" forget it, you'll never do it and make it look right.

Harry K



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