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Posted by ransley on April 1, 2008, 12:33 pm
On Apr 1, 8:10=A0am, trad...@optonline.net wrote:
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> > > I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the=
> > > fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few w=
eb
> > > sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead o=
f
> > > just
> > > a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of Chicago =
and
> > > the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado came
> > > through.
> > > I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or two at the m=
ost
> > > and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is sizing the un=
it
> > > to
> > > my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting but I have all
> > > compact fluorescents.
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> > > Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic set=
up,
> > > Rich
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> > Something else to consider, is how you balance the load so you dont
> > burn our the unit, its two legs make 220, using only one is not
> > correct, thats where a transfer panel makes it work safely.
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> > OK I've been looking at more units and switches and I think I'm going to=
use
> > my 16HP Briggs engine and get a 5500 watt PTO unit and make the generato=
r
> > from that. Then use the money I didn't spend on an engine to get a trans=
fer
> > switch and set this up properly.
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> Am I the only one that sees problems with this approach? =A0 Like
> doesn't a normal generator unit have a more precise governor mechanism
> to keep the speed/freq constant? =A0 And won't a 16HP engine use a hell
> of a lot more gas than an engine correctly sized for a 5500 watt
> generator?- Hide quoted text -
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> - Show quoted text -
You are right the govenor wont keep a steady rpm when loading and
unloading he is going to have big swings that can damage things, cheap
gens often go from 125 to 100 under full load, my generac keeps it
near to 2 v with electronics and Honda EUs do maybe 1v
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