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Grounding a Plumbing Drain Pipe

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Grounding a Plumbing Drain Pipe bobfredonia 06-25-2008
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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on June 25, 2008, 11:17 pm
> I'd demand a citation in the building code or plumbing code that requires
> this. =EF=BF=BDHe won't be able to cite it, i'll bet.
>
> s
>
>
>
>
>
> > The building inspector came over yesterday and said that most of my
> > remodeling looked fine. =EF=BF=BDHowever he said that I must ground the=
drain
> > pipe where it exits the house before going to the septic tank. =EF=BF=
=BDI
> > questioned how to do this, and he said to drive two ground rods at
> > least ten feet apart, connect them together with #6 bare cable, using
> > ground rod clamps, and connect the cable to the pipe with an approved
> > clamp. =EF=BF=BDI have called every electrical and plumbing supply stor=
e in
> > the area and no one sells an approved clamp for 4 inch schedule 40 PVC
> > pipe. =EF=BF=BDWhen I called the inspector and asked him where to get t=
he
> > clamp, he got real rude and said it is not his job to do my shopping
> > and suggested using the internet. =EF=BF=BDI am not finding anything on=
line
> > either. Where can I get one? =EF=BF=BD(He said I can NOT use a large ho=
se
> > clamp, which I suggested).
>
> > Bob- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

on a related note a large chunk of my drains were replaced with PVC,
in the center. this leaves a ungrounded vent at roof level.

is this a hazard?

Posted by S. Barker on June 26, 2008, 2:07 am
The wording in the NEC says "any piping that COULD become energized". I'd
reckon this leaves out most drain pipes even if they were metal.

s


> I'd demand a citation in the building code or plumbing code that requires
> this. ?He won't be able to cite it, i'll bet.
>
> s
>
>
>
>
>
> > The building inspector came over yesterday and said that most of my
> > remodeling looked fine. ?However he said that I must ground the drain
> > pipe where it exits the house before going to the septic tank. ?I
> > questioned how to do this, and he said to drive two ground rods at
> > least ten feet apart, connect them together with #6 bare cable, using
> > ground rod clamps, and connect the cable to the pipe with an approved
> > clamp. ?I have called every electrical and plumbing supply store in
> > the area and no one sells an approved clamp for 4 inch schedule 40 PVC
> > pipe. ?When I called the inspector and asked him where to get the
> > clamp, he got real rude and said it is not his job to do my shopping
> > and suggested using the internet. ?I am not finding anything online
> > either. Where can I get one? ?(He said I can NOT use a large hose
> > clamp, which I suggested).
>
> > Bob- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

on a related note a large chunk of my drains were replaced with PVC,
in the center. this leaves a ungrounded vent at roof level.

is this a hazard?



Posted by hallerb@aol.com on June 26, 2008, 8:13 am
On Jun 26, 5:48=EF=BF=BDam, letter...@invalid.com wrote:
> On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 20:17:44 -0700 (PDT), "hall...@aol.com"
>
>
>
>
>
> >> I'd demand a citation in the building code or plumbing code that requi=
res
> >> this. ?He won't be able to cite it, i'll bet.
>
> >> s
>
>
>
> >> > The building inspector came over yesterday and said that most of my
> >> > remodeling looked fine. ?However he said that I must ground the drai=
n
> >> > pipe where it exits the house before going to the septic tank. ?I
> >> > questioned how to do this, and he said to drive two ground rods at
> >> > least ten feet apart, connect them together with #6 bare cable, usin=
g
> >> > ground rod clamps, and connect the cable to the pipe with an approve=
d
> >> > clamp. ?I have called every electrical and plumbing supply store in
> >> > the area and no one sells an approved clamp for 4 inch schedule 40 P=
VC
> >> > pipe. ?When I called the inspector and asked him where to get the
> >> > clamp, he got real rude and said it is not his job to do my shopping
> >> > and suggested using the internet. ?I am not finding anything online
> >> > either. Where can I get one? ?(He said I can NOT use a large hose
> >> > clamp, which I suggested).
>
> >> > Bob- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> >on a related note a large chunk of my drains were replaced with PVC,
> >in the center. this leaves a ungrounded vent at roof level.
>
> >is this a hazard?
>
> Thats a good question. =EF=BF=BDI see no electrical reason, but if that v=
ent
> was to get struck by lightning, it would have no path to ground. =EF=BF=
=BDAnd
> being on a roof, it could get struck and I have heard of vents getting
> struck and even blowing them to pieces. =EF=BF=BDI am not sure what
> requirements exist or how you would go about grounding it, if its that
> tar coated black cast iron. =EF=BF=BDI bet there are a lot of houses like=
this
> and how many people even thing about it.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

yeah this new question now fascinates me, if for no other reason than
curosity. have lived here since 1972 and havent been struck....

wish I had thought about this before sealing up the walls.

it was a major project.

Posted by HerHusband on June 26, 2008, 11:12 am
> The building inspector came over yesterday and said that most of my
> remodeling looked fine. However he said that I must ground the drain
> pipe where it exits the house before going to the septic tank. I
> questioned how to do this, and he said to drive two ground rods at
> least ten feet apart, connect them together with #6 bare cable, using
> ground rod clamps, and connect the cable to the pipe with an approved
> clamp. I have called every electrical and plumbing supply store in
> the area and no one sells an approved clamp for 4 inch schedule 40 PVC
> pipe.

1. PVC pipe doesn't conduct electricity, so you cannot ground it.

2. Plumbing is not grounded to protect the plumbing, it's to offer more
grounding for the electrical system in addition to the two copper ground
rods.

3. Grounding can be accomplished in a variety of ways, including ground
rods, underground metal piping, buried metal plates, or tying into the
metal rebar of the foundation. Any and all grounds available should be tied
together electrically to prevent voltage differential between them (i.e.
connect the ground rods, metal cold water pipes exiting the building,
telephone grounding, etc.)


Posted by HeyBub on June 26, 2008, 11:51 am
HerHusband wrote:
>
> 1. PVC pipe doesn't conduct electricity, so you cannot ground it.

It's like eating candles; you don't actually know until you try.

>
> 2. Plumbing is not grounded to protect the plumbing, it's to offer
> more grounding for the electrical system in addition to the two
> copper ground rods.

No, grounding of the plumbing is done to protect humans. But it is the
plumbing that is connected to ground, not the electrical system being
grounded through the plumbing.


>
> 3. Grounding can be accomplished in a variety of ways, including
> ground rods, underground metal piping, buried metal plates, or tying
> into the metal rebar of the foundation. Any and all grounds available
> should be tied together electrically to prevent voltage differential
> between them (i.e. connect the ground rods, metal cold water pipes
> exiting the building, telephone grounding, etc.)

You don't ground electrical stuff by connecting it to a water pipe; you
ground the water pipe by connecting it to the electrical ground (one way or
another). The technique is the same, but the rationale differs.



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