|
Posted by PHILIPWOLF@comcast.net on June 2, 2006, 7:13 am
Thanks for the help, guys.
phil
PipeDown wrote:
> > PHILIPWOLF@comcast.net wrote:
> >> I have a halogen torchier lamp that uses the type T bulb. The lamp
> >> will not lite. I've already replaced the lamp but I'd like to make
> >> this a "project." The lamp uses a rheostat type switch and I was
> >> wondering if anyone had any ideas. I was going to use my multi tester
> >> to check to see if juice is getting through. The bulb is new. If no
> >> juice is getting through, should I check the switch next? Anybody know
> >> of any circuitry inside the lamp? I haven't begun to take it apart
> >> yet. Any help will be welcome.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance
> >>
> >> phil
> >>
> >
> >
> > What do you mean by "rheostat type switch". Do you mean it's a
> > continuously variable solid state dimmer?
> >
> > If so, as previously stated, check continuity from the cord plug prongs to
> > where the cord splices to the switch/lamp socket.
> >
> > If it IS a continuously variable solid state dimmer and it's bad, chances
> > are you'd not easily find an economical replacement. I'd consider
> > replacing it with a simple on-off switch if you want to keep that lamp for
> > occassional use.
> >
> > HTH,
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> > --
> > Jeffry Wisnia
> > (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
> > "Life is like a sewer -- what you get out of it depends on what you put
> > into it."
>
> Dimmers have been known to be burned out when a bulb burns out. The instant
> the filament on the bulb burns, there is a spike in voltage (or was that
> current) you might see as that last bright flash as it blows out. This
> spike can and does damage the SCR (transistor looking 3 pin device in the
> dimmer control) if its current rating is borderline (as it may be in cheaper
> switches). Better dimmers have a device rated for a much higher inrush
> current but it cost a tiny bit more.
| 
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap