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HELP! Water heater KEEPS leaking at top fitting - argh!

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HELP! Water heater KEEPS leaking at top fitting - argh! MrC1 08-10-2005
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Posted by twstanley on August 10, 2005, 11:19 am


You can also sweat a threaded end onto the hot water pipe and then use
a flexible copper piece with threaded fittings and rubber gaskets on
each end in place of hard soldering the pipe to the tank.

See the following:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Watts-J-Flex-Water-Heater-Conn-WFF-12-Copper-Plumbing_W0QQitemZ7536140289QQcategoryZ63900QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

That is what I used to connect our water heater to the existing copper
plumbing, it works great.



AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc.
Posted by MrC1 on August 10, 2005, 1:49 pm


There's an interesting solution!

> You can also sweat a threaded end onto the hot water pipe and then use
> a flexible copper piece with threaded fittings and rubber gaskets on
> each end in place of hard soldering the pipe to the tank.
>
> See the following:
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/Watts-J-Flex-Water-Heater-Conn-WFF-12-Copper-Plumbing_W0QQitemZ7536140289QQcategoryZ63900QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> That is what I used to connect our water heater to the existing copper
> plumbing, it works great.
>




Posted by MrC1 on August 10, 2005, 1:49 pm


Whodat,
What makes you say the hot side should be copper instead of iron? Is that a
standard procedure I'm not aware of or just a trick to help stop leaks, or
???

Thanks for the great info.


>
> greetings
> you have to change the existing nipple in the tank
> the cold side has the dip tube, so your hot just gets a brass nipple
> and a 3/4 copper to female adapter.
> unscrew the existing nipple. use about a 3inch brass nipple, with a
> copper stub pre-sweated in the female adapter, so you keep the heat off
> the tank
>
> you should use teflon tape but also the grey pro dope , [ not the blue
> crap that hardens up] smear a little grey dope in the female "hot"
> opening of the tank. tape the nipple and also put some grey dope over
> that.
>
> the anode rod should be changed every 8 yrs. its screwed in the top of
> the tank. some water should be drained off the bottom every couple of
> months.
>
> but 1 last thing....that tank being up in the attic, if its over 10 yrs
> old....i would consider a new one, thats a disaster in the making.
> --good luck
>
>
> --
> whodat
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> whodat's Profile: http://www.homeplot.com/member.php?userid=35
> View this thread: http://www.homeplot.com/showthread.php?t=57010
>




Posted by on August 11, 2005, 1:39 am


On 10 Aug 2005 08:53:05 -0700, phughes200@hotmail.com wrote:

>I have had this happen to me on a shower facuet. When I soldered the
>pipe, the heat effected the telfon tape and resulted in a minor leak. I
>wrapped the joint that had the telfon tape (after replacing the tape)
>with a wet rag so it wouldn't get hot when I soldered the adjacent
>joint. A pro would be able o solder fast enough not to have this
>problem but I am not a pro. Might be your problem,

I agree. Dont solder it on the steel pipe. Make up the copper
pieces, then thread it onto the steel piece, and apply th teflon tape.

A few other ideas. They make an extra thick teflon tape. I'm not
sure of the purpose, but I have used it on stubborn fittings and it
worked. Silicone also works if you allow it enough time to dry before
applying pressure. The final thing would be to apply JB Weld to the
threads, but you will NEVER get it apart again. However, as a last
resort, it sure beats tossing a tank that wtill works, (The JB Weld
will need to dry completely before you pressure the tank) Clean the
threads in the tank thoroughly with a round wire brush before you do
the silicone or JB Weld.


Posted by Speedy Jim on August 10, 2005, 11:36 am


MrC1 wrote:
> I have a 50 gal gas water heater, which is, of course, in the attic where it
> can do the most damage if I spring a leak. I recently lost a 1'x1' patch of
> ceiling texture and paint below the heater, so I went up to check it out.
>
> I found that it had a very slow dribble-leak from the steel nipple fitting
> at the top of the tank on the 'out' (hot) side. The reason for the ceiling
> damage was that the morons that installed the drain pan barely tightened the
> PVC to the pan and didn't use any sealer whatsoever.
>
> I sealed up the pan and then got to work on the leak. I unsoldered the
> copper so I could work with the steel fitting. I removed the fitting and
> the threaded copper adapter, which were pretty corroded, so I replaced them.
> I used plenty of teflon tape on the steel pipe threads and cranked it down
> to spec: "dang tight". I then soldered the copper back together and let
> 'er rip. No problems for several days, but...
>
> Last night I checked the ceiling and it was dry. I then went up to check
> the water heater and sure enough, it had an identical leak! (ARGH!) It's
> dribbling from the base of the steel nipple fitting right where it threads
> into the top of the heater.
>
> Any ideas how to stop this freakin leak? I've got the fitting tight enough
> that I fear if I try to put another turn on it I might strip or split it,
> that is, if I'm able to get it that tight at all. It's really tight now.
>
> Thanks!!!
>
>
My guess would be that the threaded (female) boss on top of
the tank has corroded (in the threads).

Clean the threads out thoroughly and then use Loctite
when assembling the nipple back in (no Teflon or other).

This is a stop-gap measure if the boss is corroded
but should give you time to work something out.

Jim


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