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HELP! - water does not come back On after turning the water main back On virginphone2000 12-17-2006
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Posted by on December 17, 2006, 9:18 pm



yep utility says i am on the hook for it

SO how tuff is it to fix this?

Its in a 6" diameter PVC tube about 18" below ground. So I will have to
dig a hole around it to work.

Is this a threaded coupling on each side of the valve or what?

I am fairly handy and have done a lot of other home repair and
carpentry stuff - not alot of plumbing though (just replaced 2 outside
faucets which led to this problem),. So is this something I could do
myself or leave it to the pros?


Posted by Speedy Jim on December 17, 2006, 9:43 pm


virginphone2000@yahoo.com wrote:

> yep utility says i am on the hook for it
>
> SO how tuff is it to fix this?
>
> Its in a 6" diameter PVC tube about 18" below ground. So I will have to
> dig a hole around it to work.
>
> Is this a threaded coupling on each side of the valve or what?
>
> I am fairly handy and have done a lot of other home repair and
> carpentry stuff - not alot of plumbing though (just replaced 2 outside
> faucets which led to this problem),. So is this something I could do
> myself or leave it to the pros?
>

Can't tell from here what it looks like.
Or what pipe materials, etc.

You need *2* hefty pipe wrenches working
against each other .

Jim

Posted by Mike Dobony on December 18, 2006, 10:10 am



>
> yep utility says i am on the hook for it
>
> SO how tuff is it to fix this?
>
> Its in a 6" diameter PVC tube about 18" below ground. So I will have to
> dig a hole around it to work.
>

18"???? You must live in the deep south!


> Is this a threaded coupling on each side of the valve or what?
>
> I am fairly handy and have done a lot of other home repair and
> carpentry stuff - not alot of plumbing though (just replaced 2 outside
> faucets which led to this problem),. So is this something I could do
> myself or leave it to the pros?
>

When you take the valve off you will have full pressure running off it.
Suggest the pros on this one as it requires special equipment to contain the
pressure as the valve is replaced. You can save some money by doing the
digging yourself.



Posted by Speedy Jim on December 18, 2006, 11:18 am


Mike Dobony wrote:
>
<SNIP>
>
> When you take the valve off you will have full pressure running off it.
> Suggest the pros on this one as it requires special equipment to contain the
> pressure as the valve is replaced. You can save some money by doing the
> digging yourself.
>
>

No. He says there is a utility shutoff on the other side
of the meter.

Posted by on December 18, 2006, 11:50 am



virginphone2000@yahoo.com wrote:

> Its in a 6" diameter PVC tube about 18" below ground. So I will have to
> dig a hole around it to work.

Just had my main shutoff replaced about a year ago. Everybody I talked
to said gate valves are the worst. My gate valve stuck in the ON
position, not a good thing if something in the house sprung a leak,
would have had to shut the water off at the curb. My shutoff valve was
out in the open (live in the Phoenix AZ area, no freeze worries), so
access was easy, and no problem accommodating the longer handle on the
ball valve. This might not work for you, unless you can make more room
for the handle, maybe replace that 6" PVC tube access with something
the size of a sprinkler valve box?

>
> Is this a threaded coupling on each side of the valve or what?
>

In my case, soldered copper fittings, YMMV.

> I am fairly handy and have done a lot of other home repair and
> carpentry stuff - not alot of plumbing though (just replaced 2 outside
> faucets which led to this problem),. So is this something I could do
> myself or leave it to the pros?

I'm not comfortable with plumbing myself, changing a faucet or snaking
a drain is about as far as I want to go. Never soldered copper, don't
plan to start now. If you have the tools and the skills, go for it.

Jerry


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