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Hardibacker for kitchen tile backsplash?

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Hardibacker for kitchen tile backsplash? Wayne Whitney 06-24-2008
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Posted by Wayne Whitney on June 24, 2008, 4:33 pm
Hello,

I typically see kitchen tile backsplashes attached to drywall with
mastic. Is there any reason not to use Hardibacker and regular
thinset for a tile backsplash?

Walls are 9' tall, meaning I'll have three horizontal rows regardless.
So it's no extra trouble to just use Hardibacker for the middle row
instead of gypsum board veneer plaster base.

Cheers, Wayne

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Posted by bill on June 24, 2008, 4:45 pm
Hardbacker isn't necessary. Its overkill really, if it was a
commercial kitchen where lots of water was going to be splashed on the
tile it would be necessary. As for mastic, mastic is easier less
messy. You usually use this because thin-set isn't necessary.

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Posted by RicodJour on June 24, 2008, 5:04 pm
> Hello,
>
> I typically see kitchen tile backsplashes attached to drywall with
> mastic. Is there any reason not to use Hardibacker and regular
> thinset for a tile backsplash?

Any reason _not_ to? No. It's perfectly fine and a more durable
installation. Most people use mastic on the drywall which is a small
bit easier and cheaper. A backsplash is the one instance where I
don't have a problem with using mastic. A backsplash is not subject
to much in the way of water, weight or wear.

> Walls are 9' tall, meaning I'll have three horizontal rows regardless.
> So it's no extra trouble to just use Hardibacker for the middle row
> instead of gypsum board veneer plaster base.

That's a good way to do it. A nice trick, on a related topic is to
cut one sheet of drywall in half the long way and to use that at the
top and bottom with a full sheet in between (8' ceiling) when you're
doing a kitchen cabinet wall. It hides the horizontal seams behind
the cabinets so there's hardly any taping to be done. But you
probably already knew that... ;)

R

Posted by Wayne Whitney on June 24, 2008, 6:03 pm

> A nice trick, on a related topic is to cut one sheet of drywall in
> half the long way and to use that at the top and bottom with a full
> sheet in between (8' ceiling) when you're doing a kitchen cabinet
> wall. It hides the horizontal seams behind the cabinets so there's
> hardly any taping to be done.

Thanks for the tip, that makes a lot of sense.

On a related note, with 9' ceilings, I am tempted to get 9' sheets and
run them vertically on the walls without cabinets. I understand that
with normal drywall, the vertical joints this makes are more difficult
to tape and make disappear. However, I'm going to be using veneer
coat plaster, where all of the wall is coated with a thin coat (1/16"
to 1/8") of plaster. With this product, is there any reason to avoid
vertical seams?

Cheers, Wayne


Posted by RicodJour on June 24, 2008, 6:24 pm
>
> > A nice trick, on a related topic is to cut one sheet of drywall in
> > half the long way and to use that at the top and bottom with a full
> > sheet in between (8' ceiling) when you're doing a kitchen cabinet
> > wall. It hides the horizontal seams behind the cabinets so there's
> > hardly any taping to be done.
>
> Thanks for the tip, that makes a lot of sense.
>
> On a related note, with 9' ceilings, I am tempted to get 9' sheets and
> run them vertically on the walls without cabinets. I understand that
> with normal drywall, the vertical joints this makes are more difficult
> to tape and make disappear. However, I'm going to be using veneer
> coat plaster, where all of the wall is coated with a thin coat (1/16"
> to 1/8") of plaster. With this product, is there any reason to avoid
> vertical seams?

As long as your framing is reasonably straight, no, have at it.

I've never understood the "no vertical sheets" thing. People say
you'll see the seams more, but I have had zero problems hiding a
tapered-edges-meeting seam, regardless of orientation. Then again I
always hold a straightedge on the framing and have no qualms about
stapling up non-corrugated cardboard or thin paneling strips to make
things straight. On rare occasions I've used a power planer on the
studs, but that's a bit drastic.

R


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