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Posted by RicodJour on June 24, 2008, 10:34 pm
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> >> > A nice trick, on a related topic is to cut one sheet of drywall in
> >> > half the long way and to use that at the top and bottom with a full
> >> > sheet in between (8' ceiling) when you're doing a kitchen cabinet
> >> > wall. It hides the horizontal seams behind the cabinets so there's
> >> > hardly any taping to be done.
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> >> Thanks for the tip, that makes a lot of sense.
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> >> On a related note, with 9' ceilings, I am tempted to get 9' sheets and
> >> run them vertically on the walls without cabinets. I understand that
> >> with normal drywall, the vertical joints this makes are more difficult
> >> to tape and make disappear. However, I'm going to be using veneer
> >> coat plaster, where all of the wall is coated with a thin coat (1/16"
> >> to 1/8") of plaster. With this product, is there any reason to avoid
> >> vertical seams?
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> > As long as your framing is reasonably straight, no, have at it.
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> > I've never understood the "no vertical sheets" thing. People say
> > you'll see the seams more, but I have had zero problems hiding a
> > tapered-edges-meeting seam, regardless of orientation. Then again I
> > always hold a straightedge on the framing and have no qualms about
> > stapling up non-corrugated cardboard or thin paneling strips to make
> > things straight. On rare occasions I've used a power planer on the
> > studs, but that's a bit drastic.
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> What's so hard to understand? Would you put on your exterior sheathing
> vertical? Would you sheath your roof verticaly ? Sheetrock is part of the
> structure as well and the same rules apply...
Drywall is part of the structure in much the same way the doors are.
When designing a building the drywall is ignored - it does not enter
into the calculations for ultimate strength, deflection or anything
else. It does add strength, but that's a bonus, not calculated.
I was saying that it's not hard to hide tapered seams, and you're
apparently free associating on building components. I still don't
understand what your point is.
> Back on topic...Hardibacker not needed for kitchen backsplash...
You don't need to run sheetrock horizontally.
R
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