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Hardibacker for kitchen tile backsplash?

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Hardibacker for kitchen tile backsplash? Wayne Whitney 06-24-2008
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Posted by Wayne Whitney on June 24, 2008, 7:07 pm
Thanks, Wayne

Posted by benick on June 24, 2008, 8:39 pm

>>
>> > A nice trick, on a related topic is to cut one sheet of drywall in
>> > half the long way and to use that at the top and bottom with a full
>> > sheet in between (8' ceiling) when you're doing a kitchen cabinet
>> > wall. It hides the horizontal seams behind the cabinets so there's
>> > hardly any taping to be done.
>>
>> Thanks for the tip, that makes a lot of sense.
>>
>> On a related note, with 9' ceilings, I am tempted to get 9' sheets and
>> run them vertically on the walls without cabinets. I understand that
>> with normal drywall, the vertical joints this makes are more difficult
>> to tape and make disappear. However, I'm going to be using veneer
>> coat plaster, where all of the wall is coated with a thin coat (1/16"
>> to 1/8") of plaster. With this product, is there any reason to avoid
>> vertical seams?
>
> As long as your framing is reasonably straight, no, have at it.
>
> I've never understood the "no vertical sheets" thing. People say
> you'll see the seams more, but I have had zero problems hiding a
> tapered-edges-meeting seam, regardless of orientation. Then again I
> always hold a straightedge on the framing and have no qualms about
> stapling up non-corrugated cardboard or thin paneling strips to make
> things straight. On rare occasions I've used a power planer on the
> studs, but that's a bit drastic.
>
> R

What's so hard to understand? Would you put on your exterior sheathing
vertical? Would you sheath your roof verticaly ? Sheetrock is part of the
structure as well and the same rules apply...

Back on topic...Hardibacker not needed for kitchen backsplash...
>


Posted by Wayne Whitney on June 24, 2008, 9:28 pm

> What's so hard to understand? Would you put on your exterior
> sheathing vertical?

Well, if you are in a high wind or seismic zone, then you might--it
reduces the need for intermediate blocking.

> Would you sheath your roof vertically ?

No, but in this case the plywood is spanning between rafters, and you
always want the "strength axis" to be perpendicular to the supporting
members. For most plywood the strength axis is the long direction:
the face grain runs in the long direction, and as the outermost
fibers, the face grain contributes most to bending resistance.

> Sheetrock is part of the structure as well and the same rules
> apply...

That's not so clear: I don't think sheetrock has a strength axis. It
seems like it should be pretty isotropic.

Cheers, Wayne

Posted by RicodJour on June 24, 2008, 10:34 pm
>
>
>
>
>
> >> > A nice trick, on a related topic is to cut one sheet of drywall in
> >> > half the long way and to use that at the top and bottom with a full
> >> > sheet in between (8' ceiling) when you're doing a kitchen cabinet
> >> > wall. It hides the horizontal seams behind the cabinets so there's
> >> > hardly any taping to be done.
>
> >> Thanks for the tip, that makes a lot of sense.
>
> >> On a related note, with 9' ceilings, I am tempted to get 9' sheets and
> >> run them vertically on the walls without cabinets. I understand that
> >> with normal drywall, the vertical joints this makes are more difficult
> >> to tape and make disappear. However, I'm going to be using veneer
> >> coat plaster, where all of the wall is coated with a thin coat (1/16"
> >> to 1/8") of plaster. With this product, is there any reason to avoid
> >> vertical seams?
>
> > As long as your framing is reasonably straight, no, have at it.
>
> > I've never understood the "no vertical sheets" thing. People say
> > you'll see the seams more, but I have had zero problems hiding a
> > tapered-edges-meeting seam, regardless of orientation. Then again I
> > always hold a straightedge on the framing and have no qualms about
> > stapling up non-corrugated cardboard or thin paneling strips to make
> > things straight. On rare occasions I've used a power planer on the
> > studs, but that's a bit drastic.
>
>
> What's so hard to understand? Would you put on your exterior sheathing
> vertical? Would you sheath your roof verticaly ? Sheetrock is part of the
> structure as well and the same rules apply...

Drywall is part of the structure in much the same way the doors are.
When designing a building the drywall is ignored - it does not enter
into the calculations for ultimate strength, deflection or anything
else. It does add strength, but that's a bonus, not calculated.

I was saying that it's not hard to hide tapered seams, and you're
apparently free associating on building components. I still don't
understand what your point is.

> Back on topic...Hardibacker not needed for kitchen backsplash...

You don't need to run sheetrock horizontally.

R

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