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Hardwood floor for dummy question. korjae@gmail.com 10-30-2007
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Posted by korjae@gmail.com on October 30, 2007, 6:46 pm
Hi, I live in Canada and have done virtually no home renovation work
in my life so far.

Our family house has carpet across both floors and unfininshed
basement.

While trying to sell the store, I noticed lot of people prefer
hardwood floor so I decided to look at option of hardwood flooring
just 1st floor which consists of below.
Living room : 4.60 m x 3.66 m
Dining room : 3.68 m x 3.66 m
Kitchen : 6.25 m x 4.88 m
Family room : 6.70 m x 5.18 m
Library : 3.96 m x 3.35 m

Kitchen and hallway is tile so we will exclude that from discussion.

Question1: Do you guys think it's worth hardwood flooring just 1st
floor (since 2nd floors are mainly bedrooms) or should it be all
Hardwood or nothing?

Rest of it converted to feet and then calculated for total Sq. footage
is 855 Sq. feet.

Question2: Some friend told me I should approximate total amount of
materia I buy should be 20% more than Sq. footage due to corners,
partly used materials, etc. Is 20% accurate approximation?

Question3: Wood I am considering is Oak, Maple, or Malaysian Chery.
Is any of those 3 good choice or is there different characteristics I
should consider aside from how it looks?

Question4: For both experience and accomplishment satisfaction
purpose, I wanted to try it out myself instead of hiring certain
flooring company at roughly $2.5 per sq foot.
What's my risk? Will I possibly screw up subflooring if I do bad? Or
is it gonna be relatively low risk even if I screw up? I was
thinking of hiring some flooring company ONCE I screw up not from the
get-go.


Question5: If I decide to do it myself, what specific tools do I need
to rent? What submaterial (ones that need to be placed below hardwood
floor -> I have no knowledge on this one) do I need to buy on top of
hardwood?

Question6: Can moldings be reused after hardwood or should it be
replaced?


Thanks so much.

Jae


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Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on October 30, 2007, 7:20 pm


>
> Question1: Do you guys think it's worth hardwood flooring just 1st
> floor (since 2nd floors are mainly bedrooms) or should it be all
> Hardwood or nothing?

Yes, many people prefer carpet in bedrooms as it feels warmer on the feet.
OTOH, if you, or a family member, have allergies, go with the hardwood all
the way. Easier to clean the dust.



>
> Question3: Wood I am considering is Oak, Maple, or Malaysian Chery.
> Is any of those 3 good choice or is there different characteristics I
> should consider aside from how it looks?

Oak is the most popular, but I'd go with what looks good to me.
>
> Question4: For both experience and accomplishment satisfaction
> purpose, I wanted to try it out myself instead of hiring certain
> flooring company at roughly $2.5 per sq foot.
> What's my risk? Will I possibly screw up subflooring if I do bad? Or
> is it gonna be relatively low risk even if I screw up? I was
> thinking of hiring some flooring company ONCE I screw up not from the
> get-go.

Not knowing your skills, it is hard to say. One of the most difficult parts
of the te job is getting hte sanding right. Consider having that done by a
pro. Do some research, watch a few "how to" videos, try a small room first.

>
>
> Question5: If I decide to do it myself, what specific tools do I need
> to rent? What submaterial (ones that need to be placed below hardwood
> floor -> I have no knowledge on this one) do I need to buy on top of
> hardwood?

You need a naler, saws, and some normal measure and marking tools. Consider
buying a nailer nad selling it on ebay when done. It may work out cheaper
than renting.


>
> Question6: Can moldings be reused after hardwood or should it be
> replaced?

If you take them off with care they can be re-used. Take a good look at
them and see if they will enhance or detract from the new floor and decide
from there.



Posted by on October 30, 2007, 7:32 pm
>
> > Question1: Do you guys think it's worth hardwood flooring just 1st
> > floor (since 2nd floors are mainly bedrooms) or should it be all
> > Hardwood or nothing?
>
> Yes, many people prefer carpet in bedrooms as it feels warmer on the feet.
> OTOH, if you, or a family member, have allergies, go with the hardwood all
> the way. Easier to clean the dust.

Yes, many houses have hardwood in part of downstairs and carpet
upstairs. It all depends on what appeals to you and how much you want
to spend.



>
>
>
> > Question3: Wood I am considering is Oak, Maple, or Malaysian Chery.
> > Is any of those 3 good choice or is there different characteristics I
> > should consider aside from how it looks?
>
> Oak is the most popular, but I'd go with what looks good to me.

>
>
>
> > Question4: For both experience and accomplishment satisfaction
> > purpose, I wanted to try it out myself instead of hiring certain
> > flooring company at roughly $2.5 per sq foot.
> > What's my risk? Will I possibly screw up subflooring if I do bad? Or
> > is it gonna be relatively low risk even if I screw up? I was
> > thinking of hiring some flooring company ONCE I screw up not from the
> > get-go.
>
> Not knowing your skills, it is hard to say. One of the most difficult parts
> of the te job is getting hte sanding right. Consider having that done by a
> pro. Do some research, watch a few "how to" videos, try a small room first.

You can avoid the wholes sanding finishing part by using the
engineered pre-finished products. That is what I would do if I were
installing it. Without knowing your skills, I agree with Edwin, hard
to say. I do lots of home projects, but if I were putting wood in
the entire 1st floor, I'd hire a pro. If it were just doing one room
that was less crtical, like maybe a bedroom you want to use as an
office, then I'd say that's a better place to start a DIY project on
something that costs a lot, and if it isn't done correctly, it isn't
going to look good and you'll have problems.




>
>
>
> > Question5: If I decide to do it myself, what specific tools do I need
> > to rent? What submaterial (ones that need to be placed below hardwood
> > floor -> I have no knowledge on this one) do I need to buy on top of
> > hardwood?
>
> You need a naler, saws, and some normal measure and marking tools. Consider
> buying a nailer nad selling it on ebay when done. It may work out cheaper
> than renting.
>
>
Another indication of why it would be better to hire a pro.


>
> > Question6: Can moldings be reused after hardwood or should it be
> > replaced?
>
> If you take them off with care they can be re-used. Take a good look at
> them and see if they will enhance or detract from the new floor and decide
> from there.




Posted by buffalobill on October 30, 2007, 7:30 pm
> Hi, I live in Canada and have done virtually no home renovation work
> in my life so far.
>
> Our family house has carpet across both floors and unfininshed
> basement.
>
> While trying to sell the store, I noticed lot of people prefer
> hardwood floor so I decided to look at option of hardwood flooring
> just 1st floor which consists of below.
> Living room : 4.60 m x 3.66 m
> Dining room : 3.68 m x 3.66 m
> Kitchen : 6.25 m x 4.88 m
> Family room : 6.70 m x 5.18 m
> Library : 3.96 m x 3.35 m
>
> Kitchen and hallway is tile so we will exclude that from discussion.
>
> Question1: Do you guys think it's worth hardwood flooring just 1st
> floor (since 2nd floors are mainly bedrooms) or should it be all
> Hardwood or nothing?
>
> Rest of it converted to feet and then calculated for total Sq. footage
> is 855 Sq. feet.
>
> Question2: Some friend told me I should approximate total amount of
> materia I buy should be 20% more than Sq. footage due to corners,
> partly used materials, etc. Is 20% accurate approximation?
>
> Question3: Wood I am considering is Oak, Maple, or Malaysian Chery.
> Is any of those 3 good choice or is there different characteristics I
> should consider aside from how it looks?
>
> Question4: For both experience and accomplishment satisfaction
> purpose, I wanted to try it out myself instead of hiring certain
> flooring company at roughly $2.5 per sq foot.
> What's my risk? Will I possibly screw up subflooring if I do bad? Or
> is it gonna be relatively low risk even if I screw up? I was
> thinking of hiring some flooring company ONCE I screw up not from the
> get-go.
>
> Question5: If I decide to do it myself, what specific tools do I need
> to rent? What submaterial (ones that need to be placed below hardwood
> floor -> I have no knowledge on this one) do I need to buy on top of
> hardwood?
>
> Question6: Can moldings be reused after hardwood or should it be
> replaced?
>
> Thanks so much.
>
> Jae

if you are selling your home: i would suggest floor materials and wall
colors are more easily changed by the buyer. why not consider a
cashback at closing deal for the buyer for this remodeling. you might
pay for a flooring company variety of materials installed very
descriptive estimate from a reputable local company who does this for
a living. your energy and materials choices will be better spent at
your new address.
see:
http://www.buildingscienceconsulting.com/resources/



Posted by Phisherman on October 30, 2007, 9:11 pm
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:46:56 -0700, "korjae@gmail.com"

>Hi, I live in Canada and have done virtually no home renovation work
>in my life so far.
>
>Our family house has carpet across both floors and unfininshed
>basement.
>
>While trying to sell the store, I noticed lot of people prefer
>hardwood floor so I decided to look at option of hardwood flooring
>just 1st floor which consists of below.
>Living room : 4.60 m x 3.66 m
>Dining room : 3.68 m x 3.66 m
>Kitchen : 6.25 m x 4.88 m
>Family room : 6.70 m x 5.18 m
>Library : 3.96 m x 3.35 m
>
>Kitchen and hallway is tile so we will exclude that from discussion.
>
>Question1: Do you guys think it's worth hardwood flooring just 1st
>floor (since 2nd floors are mainly bedrooms) or should it be all
>Hardwood or nothing?

Many folks prefer carpeting in the bedrooms.

>
>Rest of it converted to feet and then calculated for total Sq. footage
>is 855 Sq. feet.
>
>Question2: Some friend told me I should approximate total amount of
>materia I buy should be 20% more than Sq. footage due to corners,
>partly used materials, etc. Is 20% accurate approximation?
>

Sounds a little high, but okay.

>Question3: Wood I am considering is Oak, Maple, or Malaysian Chery.
>Is any of those 3 good choice or is there different characteristics I
>should consider aside from how it looks?
>

All about personal taste.

>Question4: For both experience and accomplishment satisfaction
>purpose, I wanted to try it out myself instead of hiring certain
>flooring company at roughly $2.5 per sq foot.
>What's my risk? Will I possibly screw up subflooring if I do bad? Or
>is it gonna be relatively low risk even if I screw up? I was
>thinking of hiring some flooring company ONCE I screw up not from the
>get-go.

Most pre-finished hardwood flooring is easy to install, perhaps 10
hours per room (3 hours if experienced.)

>
>
>Question5: If I decide to do it myself, what specific tools do I need
>to rent? What submaterial (ones that need to be placed below hardwood
>floor -> I have no knowledge on this one) do I need to buy on top of
>hardwood?

Read the manufacturer's recommendations.

>
>Question6: Can moldings be reused after hardwood or should it be
>replaced?
>

They can be reused, but they must be removed carefully. There is a
special tool to help you do this.

>
>Thanks so much.
>
>Jae

It's a poor return on investment to install a new floor. You're much
better off cleaning, painting walls white, decluttering, improving
curb-appeal.

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