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Hardwood floors 101 pashag 09-25-2008
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Posted by on September 25, 2008, 10:24 pm


Hi,

Do new hardwood floor materials come polyurethaned or is that step
required post installation? Also, Is sanding required post
installation?

Thanks,

Aaron

Real Goods Solar, Inc.
Posted by RickH on September 25, 2008, 11:18 pm


On Sep 25, 9:24=A0pm, pas...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Do new hardwood floor materials come polyurethaned or is that step
> required post installation? Also, Is sanding required post
> installation?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Aaron


Both, you can get pre-finished hardwood or unfinished, unfinished is
usually 3/4 inch thich T&G strips. Prefinished can be engineered
(multiple layers of various materials) or solid wood, or veneer on
simple pressed board, prefinished can snap together or glue together.

If you get unfinished "real" flooring, you have to sand then finish.
Most pre-finished flooring does not equal the beauty and integrity of
a real unfinished job IMHO. The pre-finished stuff frequently has an
ugly relief on the board edges that leaves V grooves on the floor,
unfinished is perfectly flat and smooth with no unsightly V grooves
that capture dirt and feel weird when walking.

I suggest you visit a store like Lumber Liquidators that has all types
of flooring on display.


Posted by on September 26, 2008, 12:34 am


> On Sep 25, 9:24=A0pm, pas...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > Hi,
>
> > Do new hardwood floor materials come polyurethaned or is that step
> > required post installation? Also, Is sanding required post
> > installation?
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > Aaron
>
> Both, you can get pre-finished hardwood or unfinished, unfinished is
> usually 3/4 inch thich T&G strips. =A0Prefinished can be engineered
> (multiple layers of various materials) or solid wood, or veneer on
> simple pressed board, prefinished can snap together or glue together.
>
> If you get unfinished "real" flooring, you have to sand then finish.
> Most pre-finished flooring does not equal the beauty and integrity of
> a real unfinished job IMHO. =A0The pre-finished stuff frequently has an
> ugly relief on the board edges that leaves V grooves on the floor,
> unfinished is perfectly flat and smooth with no unsightly V grooves
> that capture dirt and feel weird when walking.
>
> I suggest you visit a store like Lumber Liquidators that has all types
> of flooring on display.

Hi, thanks for the response. I would definitely prefer to go the "real
wood" route to match the rest of my beautiful old house.
What kind of sanding are we talking about? A random orbit or a
finishing sander OR something more heavy duty like belt, disk or drum?
Also, I will have radiant floor heating. What type of would is the
best conductor?

Posted by SteveBell on September 26, 2008, 9:17 am


pashag@gmail.com wrote:

> > On Sep 25, 9:24 pm, pas...@gmail.com wrote:
> >
> > > Hi,
> >
> > > Do new hardwood floor materials come polyurethaned or is that step
> > > required post installation? Also, Is sanding required post
> > > installation?
> >
> > > Thanks,
> >
> > > Aaron
> >
> > Both, you can get pre-finished hardwood or unfinished, unfinished is
> > usually 3/4 inch thich T&G strips.  Prefinished can be engineered
> > (multiple layers of various materials) or solid wood, or veneer on
> > simple pressed board, prefinished can snap together or glue
> > together.
> >
> > If you get unfinished "real" flooring, you have to sand then finish.
> > Most pre-finished flooring does not equal the beauty and integrity
> > of a real unfinished job IMHO.  The pre-finished stuff frequently
> > has an ugly relief on the board edges that leaves V grooves on the
> > floor, unfinished is perfectly flat and smooth with no unsightly V
> > grooves that capture dirt and feel weird when walking.
> >
> > I suggest you visit a store like Lumber Liquidators that has all
> > types of flooring on display.
>
> Hi, thanks for the response. I would definitely prefer to go the "real
> wood" route to match the rest of my beautiful old house.
> What kind of sanding are we talking about? A random orbit or a
> finishing sander OR something more heavy duty like belt, disk or drum?

You'll use a walk-behind drum sander designed for floors. It takes a
little practice to prevent sanding divots. That will be followed up by
a hand-held sander to get in the corners and behind objects. The
process makes _lots_ of dust, so you have to cover the whole room in
plastic.

You'll then want three coats of finish. That will take at least three
days to apply, depending on what finish you choose, with another week
or so before you put anything back on the floor.

> Also, I will have radiant floor heating. What type of would is the
> best conductor?

That's one I can't answer authoritatively, but I'd think the denser the
wood, the better the heat conduction.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

Posted by Smitty Two on September 26, 2008, 10:23 am




>
> You'll use a walk-behind drum sander designed for floors. It takes a
> little practice to prevent sanding divots.

Drum sanders are last-century. The new floor machines use a group of
coplanar random orbital sanders. Much easier to use, and no risk of
scalloping the floor.

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