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Hardwood refinishing question Malcolm Hoar 10-22-2007
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Posted by Malcolm Hoar on October 22, 2007, 7:38 pm
I am currently refinishing a hardwood front entry door; oak,
I think.

I have just about completely removed the old poly and stain
by sanding. However, in a few areas, the surface wood is
just a tiny bit softer and more fibrous. I assume this is
due to some moisture penetration under the old poly.

These areas are still pretty solid -- can't dent with a
thumbnail. But I can see and feel a subtle difference when
sanding them.

What can I do with these areas prior to painting with fresh
(oil based) poly? I don't think sanding all of the slightly
soft material away is going to be practical.

I have seen various "wood hardener" products in the big box
stores but have never used them. Are they appropriate here
and do they work? Some other treatment?

FWIW, this door is fairly well sheltered under a deep
entry porch.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| malch@malch.com Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Posted by Joe on October 22, 2007, 8:43 pm

Malcolm Hoar wrote:
> I am currently refinishing a hardwood front entry door; oak,
> I think.
>
> I have just about completely removed the old poly and stain
> by sanding. However, in a few areas, the surface wood is
> just a tiny bit softer and more fibrous. I assume this is
> due to some moisture penetration under the old poly.
>
> These areas are still pretty solid -- can't dent with a
> thumbnail. But I can see and feel a subtle difference when
> sanding them.
>
> What can I do with these areas prior to painting with fresh
> (oil based) poly? I don't think sanding all of the slightly
> soft material away is going to be practical.
>
> I have seen various "wood hardener" products in the big box
> stores but have never used them. Are they appropriate here
> and do they work? Some other treatment?

Seems to me you're on the right track using a hardener treatment. One
that comes to mind is MInWax, part of their restoraation package with
the Bondo type filler. However, it is a resin + solvent system, and
the resin may or may not be hard enough for your purpose. Given that
situation, I would likely use a well thinned out oil based
polyurethane for maximum penetration and resand after thorough cure.
Take advantage of the spectrum of colored poly's to get the final
finish you want. Weathered oak may not repond very well to the usual
stains and fillers. Good luck.

Joe


Posted by ransley on October 22, 2007, 8:45 pm
On Oct 22, 6:38 pm, ma...@malch.com (Malcolm Hoar) wrote:
> I am currently refinishing a hardwood front entry door; oak,
> I think.
>
> I have just about completely removed the old poly and stain
> by sanding. However, in a few areas, the surface wood is
> just a tiny bit softer and more fibrous. I assume this is
> due to some moisture penetration under the old poly.
>
> These areas are still pretty solid -- can't dent with a
> thumbnail. But I can see and feel a subtle difference when
> sanding them.
>
> What can I do with these areas prior to painting with fresh
> (oil based) poly? I don't think sanding all of the slightly
> soft material away is going to be practical.
>
> I have seen various "wood hardener" products in the big box
> stores but have never used them. Are they appropriate here
> and do they work? Some other treatment?
>
> FWIW, this door is fairly well sheltered under a deep
> entry porch.
>
> --
> |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
> | Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
> | ma...@malch.com Gary Player. |
> |http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I would sand until good wood, to see what the door will look like and
how damaged wood affects it wipe on paint thinner liberaly on the
whole door to see your work, often sanding must start with 50g then
80g then 120 and 200. Be sure to use a product specified Marine, boat
shops or Ben Moore, P&L are top products. The quality is in the prep-
sanding.


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