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Having trouble soldering copper pipe

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Having trouble soldering copper pipe eselk 10-23-2007
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Posted by Jeff Wisnia on October 23, 2007, 2:17 pm
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:

> wrote:
>
>>Gee it sounds like what you are doing is right, and the responses have
>>been good. One more dumb question: while you are soldering, one end
>>of the pipe is open to the air, right? (So pressure doesn't build up
>>inside) -- H- Hide quoted text -
>
>
> Uhh, no! And maybe that is why I'm having so much trouble with this
> "last one", since all of the others wouldn't have this issue since the
> pipe was still open. However, I did do 2 temporary end caps prior to
> this part of the job, and those went on fine without anything "open".
>
> Unless the fact that I have all of the nearby faucets open counts?
> This is for a shower faucet, and I have the sink faucet open (both hot
> and cold), and also sink and tub in the bathroom that shares a wall
> with this one, plus I have the hose open at the water shut-off valve
> coming in to the house... I just open all of those up because I want
> to make sure water is out of the lines, so I just leave them open,
> plus the water shut-off at the house has a tiny leak, and leaving
> these other faucets open keeps the pipes I'm working with free of
> water.
>
> I guess I'll open the shower faucet I'm installing, since it can't
> hurt (unless I forget to close before I turn the water back on, then
> my wife gets wet since she stand in front of it with a 2-way radio to
> let me know if I need to turn the water back off in a hurry).
>

Are you absatively certain that the leak is occurring through the solder
joint(s)?

I know you said you tried more than one elbow, but have you eliminated
all possibilities that a pinhole NOT covered by solder might be leaking
in such a way as to make it appear that the leak is coming through the
solder joint.

You sound like a thoughtful, careful and conciencious guy, and I'm
getting a feeling from your descriptions that just maybe you ARE making
good solder joints on that elbow but something else is snookering you
into blaming your soldering.

Maybe it's YOU who should be standing there observing while the little
lady turns the water supply back on. You might spot something else that way.

Keep us posted!

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.


Posted by DonC on October 23, 2007, 3:35 pm

> wrote:
>> Gee it sounds like what you are doing is right, and the responses have
>> been good. One more dumb question: while you are soldering, one end
>> of the pipe is open to the air, right? (So pressure doesn't build up
>> inside) -- H- Hide quoted text -
>
> Uhh, no! And maybe that is why I'm having so much trouble with this
> "last one", since all of the others wouldn't have this issue since the
> pipe was still open. However, I did do 2 temporary end caps prior to
> this part of the job, and those went on fine without anything "open".
>
> Unless the fact that I have all of the nearby faucets open counts?
> This is for a shower faucet, and I have the sink faucet open (both hot
> and cold), and also sink and tub in the bathroom that shares a wall
> with this one, plus I have the hose open at the water shut-off valve
> coming in to the house... I just open all of those up because I want
> to make sure water is out of the lines, so I just leave them open,
> plus the water shut-off at the house has a tiny leak, and leaving
> these other faucets open keeps the pipes I'm working with free of
> water.
>
> I guess I'll open the shower faucet I'm installing, since it can't
> hurt (unless I forget to close before I turn the water back on, then
> my wife gets wet since she stand in front of it with a 2-way radio to
> let me know if I need to turn the water back off in a hurry).
>

You've gotten lots of good advise but I'll add one trick taught me by Master
plumbers. If you have ANY risk of water seeping toward your joint, you need
to stop it far enough back and long enough to complete the solder joint.

The trick? Get a slice of white bread -- the doughier the better. Wad it up
so that you can shove a bunch of it far down the pipe; a pencil makes a good
ramrod. Make sure it fills the entire diameter of the pipe. Pack it in both
directions if necessary. While you're soldering, the bread will absorb the
water. When you turn the water on, the water will dissolve the bread and
flush the pipe clean.

I had been soldering copper for decades and running into all sort of
problems getting the last traces of water out of the pipe until I learned
this trick. Believe me -- it works!

Best of Luck!



Posted by on October 23, 2007, 4:20 pm
> >> Gee it sounds like what you are doing is right, and the responses have
> >> been good. One more dumb question: while you are soldering, one end
> >> of the pipe is open to the air, right? (So pressure doesn't build up
> >> inside) -- H- Hide quoted text -

Anyone else think this could be a trapped air problem? The more I
think about it, just because I had some other nearby faucets open, I
don't think that would release the air, and I really think I may just
need to open the shower faucet (the one I'm installing, and this last
elbow is on the supply side of that faucet). The more I think about
it, it sure seems like it could be air, because the solder often looks
like lava rock, instead of a nice smooth finish. I probably should
have mentioned that earlier, but it doesn't always look that way, just
on some of my attempts, but now I'm thinking even on the attempts
where I got the visible part smooth, there could still be rough parts
that I can't see (i.e.-lines/bubbles where the air is trying to pass).

My wife just told me she "heard air" everytime I turned on the water.
Not sure exactly what to make of that.

I'll open the shower faucet on my first attempt tonight, AND also I'll
be the one standing by the pipes while she turns on the water. Most
of the time the leak was slow enough that I left the water on and
looked for myself, and the leaks were coming from the joint, usually
on one side of the elbow or the other, not something silly like them
coming from the threaded joint (at the shower valve) and running along
the pipe down to that spot.

> The trick? Get a slice of white bread -- the doughier the better. Wad it up
> so that you can shove a bunch of it far down the pipe; a pencil makes a good
> ramrod. Make sure it fills the entire diameter of the pipe. Pack it in both
> directions if necessary. While you're soldering, the bread will absorb the
> water. When you turn the water on, the water will dissolve the bread and
> flush the pipe clean.

Good to know.... although we rarely have plain white bread in the
house, but I'm sure I could borrow a slice from a neighbor (wouldn't
taste very good when I returned it though).


Posted by Doug Miller on October 23, 2007, 7:44 pm
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
>> >> Gee it sounds like what you are doing is right, and the responses have
>> >> been good. One more dumb question: while you are soldering, one end
>> >> of the pipe is open to the air, right? (So pressure doesn't build up
>> >> inside) -- H- Hide quoted text -
>
>Anyone else think this could be a trapped air problem?

Nope. Trapped *air* is never a problem when soldering pipes; it just doesn't
expand enough to cause any trouble, and the pressure isn't high enough to
force it past melted solder. Trapped *water* is a problem, though: when it
turns to steam, it occupies a thousand times the volume it did as water, and
the pressure can be enough to blow a joint completely apart.

>The more I
>think about it, just because I had some other nearby faucets open, I
>don't think that would release the air, and I really think I may just
>need to open the shower faucet (the one I'm installing, and this last
>elbow is on the supply side of that faucet). The more I think about
>it, it sure seems like it could be air, because the solder often looks
>like lava rock, instead of a nice smooth finish.

That's not from air coming out -- that's from steam.

>I probably should
>have mentioned that earlier, but it doesn't always look that way, just
>on some of my attempts, but now I'm thinking even on the attempts
>where I got the visible part smooth, there could still be rough parts
>that I can't see (i.e.-lines/bubbles where the air

steam

>is trying to pass).

is passing

>My wife just told me she "heard air" everytime I turned on the water.
>Not sure exactly what to make of that.

Doubtless you have air in the lines. But that's not relevant here: it's the
water, flashing to steam, that's causing your problem.
>
>I'll open the shower faucet on my first attempt tonight, AND also I'll
>be the one standing by the pipes while she turns on the water. Most
>of the time the leak was slow enough that I left the water on and
>looked for myself, and the leaks were coming from the joint, usually
>on one side of the elbow or the other, not something silly like them
>coming from the threaded joint (at the shower valve) and running along
>the pipe down to that spot.

Let the joints cool off longer, too, before you run water into them.

>> The trick? Get a slice of white bread -- the doughier the better. Wad it up
>> so that you can shove a bunch of it far down the pipe; a pencil makes a good
>> ramrod. Make sure it fills the entire diameter of the pipe. Pack it in both
>> directions if necessary. While you're soldering, the bread will absorb the
>> water. When you turn the water on, the water will dissolve the bread and
>> flush the pipe clean.
>
>Good to know.... although we rarely have plain white bread in the
>house, but I'm sure I could borrow a slice from a neighbor (wouldn't
>taste very good when I returned it though).

It doesn't have to be white bread. Whole wheat works just fine.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Posted by Bert Byfield on October 23, 2007, 9:45 pm
> My wife just told me she "heard air" everytime I turned on the
> water. Not sure exactly what to make of that.

Air gets into the water lines when you work on the pipes, and when you
turn the pressure back on it blows out the faucets etc for a few
minutes.. No problem.





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