Home Page link

Heat redistribution from floor to floor

Home Repair - - If it ain't broken, don't fix it. Otherwise look here. 

Page 2 of 2       << first < 1 2 Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Heat redistribution from floor to floor Harlan Messinger 08-18-2006
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by Don Young on August 18, 2006, 10:18 pm

> My house is on three floors, it has central air conditioning, the
> thermostat is on the middle level, and there's an exhaust fan on its own
> thermostat in the attic. When the temperature is comfortable on the middle
> floor, it's too warm on the top level. It's a bit cooler on the ground
> floor.
>
> What's the most effective, assuming any of them is effective, of the
> following approaches?
>
> 1. Partly close the incoming air vents on the middle floor and possibly
> the ground floor. The theory: a relatively larger portion of cooled air
> will go to the top floor.
>
> 2. Hang a ceiling fan in the stairway between the second and third floors
> to push the air upwards.
>
> 3. Hang a ceiling fan in the stairway between the second and third floors
> to push the air downwards.
This common situation can be improved by running the evaporator fan
continuously. The fan speed for best balance between cost and effectiveness
can be determined experimentally. Reducing the heat gain in the upper floors
also helps.

Don Young



Posted by Harlan Messinger on August 20, 2006, 7:12 am
Don Young wrote:
>> My house is on three floors, it has central air conditioning, the
>> thermostat is on the middle level, and there's an exhaust fan on its own
>> thermostat in the attic. When the temperature is comfortable on the middle
>> floor, it's too warm on the top level. It's a bit cooler on the ground
>> floor.
>>
>> What's the most effective, assuming any of them is effective, of the
>> following approaches?
>>
>> 1. Partly close the incoming air vents on the middle floor and possibly
>> the ground floor. The theory: a relatively larger portion of cooled air
>> will go to the top floor.
>>
>> 2. Hang a ceiling fan in the stairway between the second and third floors
>> to push the air upwards.
>>
>> 3. Hang a ceiling fan in the stairway between the second and third floors
>> to push the air downwards.
> This common situation can be improved by running the evaporator fan
> continuously. The fan speed for best balance between cost and effectiveness
> can be determined experimentally. Reducing the heat gain in the upper floors
> also helps.

Do you mean, the fan switch on the thermostat? I always have that on On,
rather than Auto. But there isn't a speed adjustment.

What do you mean by "reducing the heat gain"?

Posted by hallerb@aol.com on August 20, 2006, 7:42 am


> Do you mean, the fan switch on the thermostat? I always have that on On,
> rather than Auto. But there isn't a speed adjustment.
>
> What do you mean by "reducing the heat gain"?

blower motor may be adjustable or go to a bigger or faster motor or
larger blower. if the blower is belt driiven often a easy pulley and
belt change is all thats needed. although in the winter too much
airflow can cause drafts.

to reduce heat gain close blinds stuff like that.

do you have air returns from the 3rd floor?


Posted by m Ransley on August 20, 2006, 8:48 am
In summer I partialy block off my 1st floor return to increase second
floor pull.


Posted by on August 20, 2006, 9:26 am

m Ransley wrote:
> In summer I partialy block off my 1st floor return to increase second
> floor pull.


First, I would check all the ducts and returns to understand what's
there and make sure it's all connected. Very common to find tape
that's come off and a duct that's become seperated.

Then figure out how the ducts are run and which downstairs registers
are on the same ducts as upstairs. Then you can try closing off a
couple downstairs registers where it's likely to do the most good in
providing additional flow for upstairs.

Also, check out the size of the upstairs returns and make sure they are
open. Try taking off the grills for a couple of days. I did that and
it made a noticeable difference. Inspect the returns. These typically
use the bays between walls for passage and some times they aren't
completely open, due to poor installation and the installer having not
made complete cutouts all the way along the path, etc.

I agree with the advice about possibly adding another return, or larger
grill opening, if possible. Consider adding a radiant barrier in the
attic, which can help.

There also are booster fans, of 2 types. One gets inserted into the
duct serving upstairs in the basement and is wired into the furnace
blower. The other sits over the register, has a sail switch that
turns it on. I installed the first type on my system and it made a
noticeable difference, though it's not a total solution.

Unfortunately, I agree with Joseph that the best solution is a multiple
zone system. Many of these single zone systems would work better if
the installers did the job correctly during construction. But too
often there are not enough returns, supply ducts for upstairs and it's
very hard to fix later.


Page 2 of 2       << first < 1 2
Similar ThreadsPosted
How to have warm feet without in-floor heat? July 28, 2005, 3:12 am
Electric radiant floor heat November 1, 2005, 9:10 pm
Radiant floor heat questions February 27, 2006, 5:44 pm
Installing In-Floor Heat in New Shop March 27, 2006, 8:44 am
Question about in-floor heat in garage June 19, 2008, 9:39 pm
oil burner trouble--heat on just one floor November 21, 2006, 5:49 am
In Floor radiant Heat History March 30, 2007, 2:34 am
Radiant "In Floor" heat question March 12, 2007, 11:55 pm
Radiant floor heat question May 2, 2007, 7:09 pm
Radiant heat in the ceiling vs the floor January 9, 2009, 11:59 am

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap