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Heat water with a window AC?

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Heat water with a window AC? nicksanspam 07-20-2006
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Posted by on July 20, 2006, 10:48 am
I'm still thinking about heating water with 1/3 the usual energy using a Haier
5K Btu/h window AC ($84 at Wal-Mart.) The pipes connect to the condenser coil
at the top, so we could build a thin aquarium around it with no replumbing or
recharging and pump 1.5 gpm of 110 F water out through a $168 Doucette SB1-20
400 Btu/h-F plate heat exchanger with a 110 F thermostat and pump 60 F cold
water into the other side of the heat exchanger from a cold kitchen tap and
back into the hot tap, and dump some hot water from the hot tap into the sink
with a solenoid valve if the cold tap ever reaches say, 100 F, when/if the
tank water heater completely fills. Heating 50 gallons of 60 F water to 110
takes about 21K Btu, and the AC would make about 5000(1+1/3) = 6700 Btu/h,
so we might fill the tank in 3 hours, with no hot water use.

When I blocked the Haier AC condenser airflow to make the exit temp 110 F,
its cool air temp and power use (from a Kill-a-Watt) barely changed.

This could be more efficient than a typical "portable air conditioner" with
air hoses. Removing the condenser fan blade might also raise the COP.

Nick


Radiant Heat 468x60
Posted by on July 20, 2006, 11:19 am
On 20 Jul 2006 10:48:24 -0400, nicksanspam@ece.villanova.edu wrote:

>I'm still thinking about heating water with 1/3 the usual energy using a Haier
>5K Btu/h window AC ($84 at Wal-Mart.) The pipes connect to the condenser coil
>at the top, so we could build a thin aquarium around it with no replumbing or
>recharging and pump 1.5 gpm of 110 F water out through a $168 Doucette SB1-20
>400 Btu/h-F plate heat exchanger with a 110 F thermostat and pump 60 F cold
>water into the other side of the heat exchanger from a cold kitchen tap and
>back into the hot tap, and dump some hot water from the hot tap into the sink
>with a solenoid valve if the cold tap ever reaches say, 100 F, when/if the
>tank water heater completely fills. Heating 50 gallons of 60 F water to 110
>takes about 21K Btu, and the AC would make about 5000(1+1/3) = 6700 Btu/h,
>so we might fill the tank in 3 hours, with no hot water use.
>
>When I blocked the Haier AC condenser airflow to make the exit temp 110 F,
>its cool air temp and power use (from a Kill-a-Watt) barely changed.
>
>This could be more efficient than a typical "portable air conditioner" with
>air hoses. Removing the condenser fan blade might also raise the COP.
>
>Nick

        ( yawn )

        I thought you were busy working on your perpetual motion
machine ?

        Another great project for you to consider would be 'free
lunch'. If you could create 'free lunch', THAT would be a popular
item !


--
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

Posted by Jeff Wisnia on July 20, 2006, 7:34 pm
nicksanspam@ece.villanova.edu wrote:
> I'm still thinking about heating water with 1/3 the usual energy using a Haier
> 5K Btu/h window AC ($84 at Wal-Mart.) The pipes connect to the condenser coil
> at the top, so we could build a thin aquarium around it with no replumbing or
> recharging and pump 1.5 gpm of 110 F water out through a $168 Doucette SB1-20
> 400 Btu/h-F plate heat exchanger with a 110 F thermostat and pump 60 F cold
> water into the other side of the heat exchanger from a cold kitchen tap and
> back into the hot tap, and dump some hot water from the hot tap into the sink
> with a solenoid valve if the cold tap ever reaches say, 100 F, when/if the
> tank water heater completely fills. Heating 50 gallons of 60 F water to 110
> takes about 21K Btu, and the AC would make about 5000(1+1/3) = 6700 Btu/h,
> so we might fill the tank in 3 hours, with no hot water use.
>
> When I blocked the Haier AC condenser airflow to make the exit temp 110 F,
> its cool air temp and power use (from a Kill-a-Watt) barely changed.
>
> This could be more efficient than a typical "portable air conditioner" with
> air hoses. Removing the condenser fan blade might also raise the COP.
>
> Nick
>
I like your thinking, it should work. I take it your not really thinking
about hooking hoses up to the spouts of the kitchen sink taps, but to
the pipes feeding them.

About 40 years a go one of my friends had a water cooled central air
system in his Massachusetts home. All the equipment was in the basement
furnace room. The cooling water went down the drain most of the time,
but he did have a valving setup which allowed him to water his lawn with
that warm water if he wanted to.

Googling "heat pump water heater" got over 49,000 hits, and it looks
like it's proven technology:

http://tinyurl.com/zpkpd

and:

http://www.aceee.org/consumerguide/topwater.htm

Hmm, I wonder if Mr. Milligan even knows this technology exists? If he
does, I wonder why he felt the necessity to hurl an insult at you.
(Rhetorical question, see my sig line.)

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength."

Posted by on July 20, 2006, 7:48 pm
On Thu, 20 Jul 2006 19:34:39 -0400, Jeff Wisnia

>nicksanspam@ece.villanova.edu wrote:
>> I'm still thinking about heating water with 1/3 the usual energy using a Haier
>> 5K Btu/h window AC ($84 at Wal-Mart.) The pipes connect to the condenser coil
>> at the top, so we could build a thin aquarium around it with no replumbing or
>> recharging and pump 1.5 gpm of 110 F water out through a $168 Doucette SB1-20
>> 400 Btu/h-F plate heat exchanger with a 110 F thermostat and pump 60 F cold
>> water into the other side of the heat exchanger from a cold kitchen tap and
>> back into the hot tap, and dump some hot water from the hot tap into the sink
>> with a solenoid valve if the cold tap ever reaches say, 100 F, when/if the
>> tank water heater completely fills. Heating 50 gallons of 60 F water to 110
>> takes about 21K Btu, and the AC would make about 5000(1+1/3) = 6700 Btu/h,
>> so we might fill the tank in 3 hours, with no hot water use.
>>
>> When I blocked the Haier AC condenser airflow to make the exit temp 110 F,
>> its cool air temp and power use (from a Kill-a-Watt) barely changed.
>>
>> This could be more efficient than a typical "portable air conditioner" with
>> air hoses. Removing the condenser fan blade might also raise the COP.
>>
>> Nick
>>
>I like your thinking, it should work. I take it your not really thinking
>about hooking hoses up to the spouts of the kitchen sink taps, but to
>the pipes feeding them.
>
>About 40 years a go one of my friends had a water cooled central air
>system in his Massachusetts home. All the equipment was in the basement
>furnace room. The cooling water went down the drain most of the time,
>but he did have a valving setup which allowed him to water his lawn with
>that warm water if he wanted to.
>
>Googling "heat pump water heater" got over 49,000 hits, and it looks
>like it's proven technology:
>
>http://tinyurl.com/zpkpd
>
>and:
>
>http://www.aceee.org/consumerguide/topwater.htm
>
>Hmm, I wonder if Mr. Milligan even knows this technology exists? If he
>does, I wonder why he felt the necessity to hurl an insult at you.

        Because I've known Nick for 10 years, and he's a fucking loon.

        Because his nonsense doesn't work.

        Because HIS garbage has NOTHING to do with the system YOU
described. Merely 'uses water' does not count as 'being the same kind
of thing'.

        Because Nick has once again displayed his incredibly
consistent ignorance, this time of basic household plumbing.

        Because I've installed and serviced more heat pump water
heaters than you've ever read about on the Internet. I can, and I
have, take 'em apart down to the smallest nut and bolt, diganose and
fix or replace any broken parts, and put 'em back together. It was
part of how I made my living for 15 years.

        Because when he talks about 'blocking condenser airflow' or
'removing fan blade', he displays his COMPLETE lack of understanding
of how to pipe or control such a system.

        Because he thinks some little window unit is going to live
very long running at 110 ambient ( which is what he suggests ).

        So bite me.

>(Rhetorical question, see my sig line.)
>
>Jeff

--
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

Posted by m Ransley on July 20, 2006, 8:06 pm
pjm, you dont install anything, you cant, you spend your whole
worthless life 24x7 pissing at alt hvac jack offs, go home and pee pjm


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