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Heating house with NG, but no electric

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Heating house with NG, but no electric Stormin Mormon 03-04-2007
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Posted by Stormin Mormon on March 4, 2007, 7:20 pm


A friend of mine (Western, NY) had the electric shut off, on
Thursday March 01. The power company will turn it back on, after
the Welfare worker gets around to faxxing over a voucher. Which
could be Monday, and it could be days later than that.

In the meantime, an old drafty house sits with no furnace. It
will be in the twenties tonight, and below Zero on Monday night
the 5th going into the 6th.

The hot water heater (yeah, I know, you don't have to heat hot
water) is natural gas. The stove is electric. The neighbors won't
let him run an extension cord over, to power the furnace. He
doesn't have a generator.

The only two heat sources in the house at present are a camp
stove, probably 2,500 BTU / hr or so. And some candles.

Any ideas how to keep the house warm enough not to freeze pipes?
They are at a motel, tonight.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.



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Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on March 4, 2007, 7:42 pm



> He
> doesn't have a generator.
>
> The only two heat sources in the house at present are a camp
> stove, probably 2,500 BTU / hr or so. And some candles.
>
> Any ideas how to keep the house warm enough not to freeze pipes?
> They are at a motel, tonight.

Aside from renting a generator, not much you can do. There are some heaters
that can be used indoors, but they are $100 and up. Kerosene heater, but
most are not rated for indoor. If he can't pay the electric, I doubt they
have the money for a rental deposit.



Posted by trainfan1 on March 4, 2007, 9:33 pm


Stormin Mormon wrote:

> A friend of mine (Western, NY) had the electric shut off, on
> Thursday March 01. The power company will turn it back on, after
> the Welfare worker gets around to faxxing over a voucher. Which
> could be Monday, and it could be days later than that.
>
> In the meantime, an old drafty house sits with no furnace. It
> will be in the twenties tonight, and below Zero on Monday night
> the 5th going into the 6th.
>
> The hot water heater (yeah, I know, you don't have to heat hot
> water) is natural gas. The stove is electric. The neighbors won't
> let him run an extension cord over, to power the furnace. He
> doesn't have a generator.
>
> The only two heat sources in the house at present are a camp
> stove, probably 2,500 BTU / hr or so. And some candles.
>
> Any ideas how to keep the house warm enough not to freeze pipes?
> They are at a motel, tonight.
>

Why was the electric shut off?

Who owns the house?

How much does that motel room cost?

Who's paying for that?

How'd they get there?

Nice neighbors too...

Better drain all the plumbing & traps before bug-out.

Or... as long as I'm paying the electric bill(as a New York Tax Payer)
for your friend, & I'll assume I'm picking up the tab for the natural
gas & water bills too, I'll tell you how to fritter away some more of my
money:

Instead of an extension cord, borrow as much garden hose as he can, run
it throughout the house in the areas most susceptible to freezing in one
continuous loop, terminating in a sink or drain. Let the hose fill/run
slowly connected to the hot water tap furthest from the heater.

For even better heat retention, fill the bathtub with the loose/drain
end of the hose and let the cooled water go out the overflow(adjust the
flow rate accordingly).

Rob

Posted by mm on March 5, 2007, 4:47 am


On Sun, 04 Mar 2007 21:33:38 -0500, trainfan1

>
>
>Better drain all the plumbing & traps before bug-out.
>
>Or... as long as I'm paying the electric bill(as a New York Tax Payer)
>for your friend, & I'll assume I'm picking up the tab for the natural
>gas & water bills too, I'll tell you how to fritter away some more of my
>money:
>
>Instead of an extension cord, borrow as much garden hose as he can, run
>it throughout the house in the areas most susceptible to freezing in one
>continuous loop, terminating in a sink or drain. Let the hose fill/run
>slowly connected to the hot water tap furthest from the heater.
>
>For even better heat retention, fill the bathtub with the loose/drain
>end of the hose and let the cooled water go out the overflow(adjust the
>flow rate accordingly).

This last one sounds to me like a terrible idea. Many, most or all
overflows barely drain at all. I don't know why -- they look big --
but I have tested and barely anything flows out.

If one wanted to fill the tub, he could do it from the tub's own
faucet, and when it gets close to the top, turn off the water and make
sure it's not dripping. If it is dripping even some, being away from
the house for 12 hours or mroe could easily lead to lots of overflow.

Then let the water from the sink faucets run into the sinks
themselves. Again don't count on the overflow accepting more than a
few drops, although that's probably enough to keep the pipe from
freezing.

But there is a furhter problem. most of my faucets when left running
slowly gradually run more slowly until they don't run at all. To make
sure they don't stop running, they would have to be left on more than
the overflow could handle. And if they can progressively run more
slowly, I would think some would gradually run more quickly, so if a
faucet were set to run no faster than the overflow can handle, it
might start running faster later.

And none of this takes care of the toilets. The water supply to the
tanks could be turned off, and the tanks emptied by flushing, but the
built-in trap could still freeze and break the toilet. how does one
drain a trap? Better to put some sort of antifreeze in it. They may
not have ethylene glycol handy, but as I posted about before, anything
that dissolves will have some effect. I didn't want to use salt in my
car, and others thought sugar was bad (though no one gave a reason)
but they will both work in a toilet. A mixture of both is probably
even more effective. That is, a cup of salt and a cup of sugar would
be iiuc much more effective than two cups of either one of them. And
add some rubbing alcohol. It won't evaporate when cold, unlike in the
car's radiator (although I think alcohol would have lasted for a few
weeks there too.)

>Rob


Posted by trainfan1 on March 5, 2007, 7:55 am


mm wrote:

> On Sun, 04 Mar 2007 21:33:38 -0500, trainfan1
>
>
>>
>>Better drain all the plumbing & traps before bug-out.
>>
>>Or... as long as I'm paying the electric bill(as a New York Tax Payer)
>>for your friend, & I'll assume I'm picking up the tab for the natural
>>gas & water bills too, I'll tell you how to fritter away some more of my
>>money:
>>
>>Instead of an extension cord, borrow as much garden hose as he can, run
>>it throughout the house in the areas most susceptible to freezing in one
>>continuous loop, terminating in a sink or drain. Let the hose fill/run
>>slowly connected to the hot water tap furthest from the heater.
>>
>>For even better heat retention, fill the bathtub with the loose/drain
>>end of the hose and let the cooled water go out the overflow(adjust the
>>flow rate accordingly).
>
>
> This last one sounds to me like a terrible idea. Many, most or all
> overflows barely drain at all. I don't know why -- they look big --
> but I have tested and barely anything flows out.
>
> If one wanted to fill the tub, he could do it from the tub's own
> faucet, and when it gets close to the top, turn off the water and make
> sure it's not dripping. If it is dripping even some, being away from
> the house for 12 hours or mroe could easily lead to lots of overflow.
>
> Then let the water from the sink faucets run into the sinks
> themselves. Again don't count on the overflow accepting more than a
> few drops, although that's probably enough to keep the pipe from
> freezing.
>
> But there is a furhter problem. most of my faucets when left running
> slowly gradually run more slowly until they don't run at all. To make
> sure they don't stop running, they would have to be left on more than
> the overflow could handle. And if they can progressively run more
> slowly, I would think some would gradually run more quickly, so if a
> faucet were set to run no faster than the overflow can handle, it
> might start running faster later.
>
> And none of this takes care of the toilets. The water supply to the
> tanks could be turned off, and the tanks emptied by flushing, but the
> built-in trap could still freeze and break the toilet. how does one
> drain a trap? Better to put some sort of antifreeze in it. They may
> not have ethylene glycol handy, but as I posted about before, anything
> that dissolves will have some effect. I didn't want to use salt in my
> car, and others thought sugar was bad (though no one gave a reason)
> but they will both work in a toilet. A mixture of both is probably
> even more effective. That is, a cup of salt and a cup of sugar would
> be iiuc much more effective than two cups of either one of them. And
> add some rubbing alcohol. It won't evaporate when cold, unlike in the
> car's radiator (although I think alcohol would have lasted for a few
> weeks there too.)
>
>
>>Rob
>
>

It's my money, I'll spend it as I see fit!

Fix your overflows!

Rob

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