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Help fixing the finish on my oil stained deck

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Help fixing the finish on my oil stained deck jeff37 04-30-2008
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Posted by jeff37 on May 2, 2008, 7:37 pm

> Accept the
> fact that if you insist on a new looking deck it will be as high
> priced in terms of materials and labor as having Paris Hilton for a
> trophy wife.Good luck.
>
> Joe
Hahha, nice one. Sounds like your advice is about right though. I am
just going to try a few things.

But - to make it clear I am by no means trying to make this thing look
like new. I'm just trying to make it look like this isn't a crack
house. The deck looks terrible right now. Only way to fix it is to
strip all that stuff off according to the manufacturer. They are
suggesting I just strip it as many times as it takes. So, that should
be fun.

Thanks,
Jeff

Posted by Boden on May 3, 2008, 12:20 am
Joe wrote:

>
>>>I dought its a red oak deck likely PT pine. Cabots oil is good,
>>>failure of stain is often not following instructions, like it gets to
>>>cold at night-50 , or was damp, or moldy. Bleach Kills mold cheaply.
>>
>>Right...I said it was red cedar in the very response you quoted...
>>
>>I know there are a handful of reasons it may have failed, but right
>>now I'm just trying to figure out how to fix it.
>
>
> Cruise your local pro paint stores, lumber yards the library (Consumer
> REports) and home centers and ask a whole bunch of questions. Distill
> all the answers and keep trying all the remedies offered. One might
> work some day, but hopefully in a few years the appearance of the deck
> will no longer be a major concern and you can let it age gracefully
> until it is time to replace it with something more durable. Accept the
> fact that if you insist on a new looking deck it will be as high
> priced in terms of materials and labor as having Paris Hilton for a
> trophy wife.Good luck.
>
> Joe
I'm faced with a similar problem. My deck is also vertical grain red
cedar and was originally stained using a clear Cabot Stain. Then the
hug-a-trees came into their own and our government forced the original
stain off the market. Replacement finishes are not honest
"replacements." The new finish formulations don't adhere well when
placed over the places where the original finish persists.

The only remedy I can see is to remove all of the existing finish and
begin anew with currently available finishes. Cabot, Flood or Benjamin
Moore make acceptable products but I strongly urge calling and talking
with a coatings chemist at the company you choose to buy from...not a
salesman. I've done it and found it to be worthwhile. I expect that
the stripping will take several years since I have over 1000 sq ft to do
so I am now looking for how to do this easily. I have not had good
success hiring contractors to do this so far. Their approach is to use
a pressure washer, which is the wrong answer.

Posted by on May 3, 2008, 9:05 am
> Joe wrote:
>
> >>>I dought its a red oak deck likely PT pine. Cabots oil is good,
> >>>failure of stain is often not following instructions, like it gets to
> >>>cold at night-50 , or was damp, or moldy. Bleach Kills mold cheaply.
>
> >>Right...I said it was red cedar in the very response you quoted...
>
> >>I know there are a handful of reasons it may have failed, but right
> >>now I'm just trying to figure out how to fix it.
>
> > Cruise your local pro paint stores, lumber yards the library (Consumer
> > REports) and home centers and ask a whole bunch of questions. Distill
> > all the answers and keep trying all the remedies offered. One might
> > work some day, but hopefully in a few years the appearance of the deck
> > will no longer be a major concern and you can let it age gracefully
> > until it is time to replace it with something more durable. Accept the
> > fact that if you insist on a new looking deck it will be as high
> > priced in terms of materials and labor as having Paris Hilton for a
> > trophy wife.Good luck.
>
> > Joe
>
> I'm faced with a similar problem. =A0My deck is also vertical grain red
> cedar and was originally stained using a clear Cabot Stain. =A0Then the
> hug-a-trees came into their own and our government forced the original
> stain off the market. =A0Replacement finishes are not honest
> "replacements." =A0The new finish formulations don't adhere well when
> placed over the places where the original finish persists.
>
> The only remedy I can see is to remove all of the existing finish and
> begin anew with currently available finishes. =A0Cabot, Flood or Benjamin
> Moore make acceptable products but I strongly urge calling and talking
> with a coatings chemist at the company you choose to buy from...not a
> salesman. =A0I've done it and found it to be worthwhile. =A0I expect that
> the stripping will take several years since I have over 1000 sq ft to do
> so I am now looking for how to do this easily. =A0I have not had good
> success hiring contractors to do this so far. =A0Their approach is to use
> a pressure washer, which is the wrong answer.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


If it were me, I'd look into getting it professionally sandblasted. It
will cost a bit, but it's fast and zero effort on your part.

Sounds like the existing stain must be solid since it's peeling? If
you go with one that is semi-transparent, etc that will eliminate the
problem, provided the wood is nice enough that you can do so.

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