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Hot Water, PEX and Vibration

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Hot Water, PEX and Vibration Chris 05-09-2007
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Posted by Chris on May 9, 2007, 4:49 pm
My sister-in-law's new house has a basement guest room that backs onto
the equipment room. The gas hot water heater (domestic + radiant
heat) is located up against the wall that separates the two rooms.
When the HW tank cycles, the vibration/noise is transmitted to the
guestroom wall via the PEX hanging on the studwork and the supports
for the copper pipes coming out of the top of the tank (also attached
to the studwork - no drywall on the equipment room side of the
wall)

This makes a heck of a racket. I want to isolate the vibration from
the partition wall as much as possible.

a) do I have to stick with the J clamp mounts for the PEX or can I use
something with some flex to it (loop of copper strapping, say)?
b) how much support does the copper rat's nest on top of the HW heater
need? With my home tank, the copper is tied to the tank by the
fittings, then to the overhead joists. There is no intermediate
support to the vertical wall.

I'd post a picture if I could remember how/where to do it.

Jurisdiction is Ontario in case there are any building code experts in
the audience.

Thanks,
Chris


Posted by BobK207 on May 9, 2007, 8:38 pm
> My sister-in-law's new house has a basement guest room that backs onto
> the equipment room. The gas hot water heater (domestic + radiant
> heat) is located up against the wall that separates the two rooms.
> When the HW tank cycles, the vibration/noise is transmitted to the
> guestroom wall via the PEX hanging on the studwork and the supports
> for the copper pipes coming out of the top of the tank (also attached
> to the studwork - no drywall on the equipment room side of the
> wall)
>
> This makes a heck of a racket. I want to isolate the vibration from
> the partition wall as much as possible.
>
> a) do I have to stick with the J clamp mounts for the PEX or can I use
> something with some flex to it (loop of copper strapping, say)?
> b) how much support does the copper rat's nest on top of the HW heater
> need? With my home tank, the copper is tied to the tank by the
> fittings, then to the overhead joists. There is no intermediate
> support to the vertical wall.
>
> I'd post a picture if I could remember how/where to do it.
>
> Jurisdiction is Ontario in case there are any building code experts in
> the audience.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris

IMO the problem is the source of the noise....why is the HW tank so
noisy? The transmission is a secondary issue.

But to minimize transmission, how about insulating the wall,
sheathing it (something strong to screw the hardware to) & drywalling
it?

Or got room for a second partition wall?

YMMV

cheers
Bob


Posted by Chris on May 10, 2007, 5:04 pm
>
> SNIP <
>

>
> IMO the problem is the source of the noise....why is the HW tank so
> noisy? The transmission is a secondary issue.
>
> But to minimize transmission, how about insulating the wall,
> sheathing it (something strong to screw the hardware to) & drywalling
> it?
>
> Or got room for a second partition wall?
>
> YMMV
>
> cheers
> Bob

The water heater doesn't seem particularly noisy up close. No worse
than mine - bit of a whoosh at start up, then the fan, etc.

I think the real problem is the bone headed architect or plumbing
contractor that installed the tank a couple of inches from a bedroom
partition wall instead of on one of the available exterior walls.

Should be able to slide a sheet of drywall behind the tank, have to
skip screws on a couple of studs

Chris


Posted by hallerb@aol.com on May 11, 2007, 4:50 pm
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > SNIP <
>
> > IMO the problem is the source of the noise....why is the HW tank so
> > noisy? =A0The transmission is a secondary issue.
>
> > But to minimize transmission, how about =A0insulating the wall,
> > sheathing it (something strong to screw the hardware to) & drywalling
> > it?
>
> > Or got room for a second partition wall?
>
> > YMMV
>
> > cheers
> > Bob
>
> The water heater doesn't seem particularly noisy up close. =A0No worse
> than mine - bit of a whoosh at start up, then the fan, etc.
>
> I think the real problem is the bone headed architect or plumbing
> contractor that installed the tank a couple of inches from a bedroom
> partition wall instead of on one of the available exterior walls.
>
> Should be able to slide a sheet of drywall behind the tank, have to
> skip screws on a couple of studs
>
> Chris- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

make sure flammables arent too close.

cement board may be better choice, doubt it would burn.

if your really into quiet fill wall cavatity with insulation


Posted by Eigenvector on May 9, 2007, 9:07 pm

> My sister-in-law's new house has a basement guest room that backs onto
> the equipment room. The gas hot water heater (domestic + radiant
> heat) is located up against the wall that separates the two rooms.
> When the HW tank cycles, the vibration/noise is transmitted to the
> guestroom wall via the PEX hanging on the studwork and the supports
> for the copper pipes coming out of the top of the tank (also attached
> to the studwork - no drywall on the equipment room side of the
> wall)
>
> This makes a heck of a racket. I want to isolate the vibration from
> the partition wall as much as possible.
>
> a) do I have to stick with the J clamp mounts for the PEX or can I use
> something with some flex to it (loop of copper strapping, say)?
> b) how much support does the copper rat's nest on top of the HW heater
> need? With my home tank, the copper is tied to the tank by the
> fittings, then to the overhead joists. There is no intermediate
> support to the vertical wall.
>
> I'd post a picture if I could remember how/where to do it.
>
> Jurisdiction is Ontario in case there are any building code experts in
> the audience.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
>

My hot water heater has PEX to it, I've never heard noise go through it.

As to supporting PEX, it shouldn't be taught or rigid, it needs to flex and
bend as it heats and cools. I don't support my PEX with J clamps - used to,
but I find that hoops work better


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