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Hot water heater circut breaker pops JohnA 03-03-2007
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Posted by Roger Shoaf on March 4, 2007, 1:11 am



> Hello,
>
> I was wondering if anyone would take a moment and help here.
>
> I have a 3 year old water heater (will get information on it on demand)
>
> Problem is that it seems to pop the circut breaker at times, sometimes
1x a
> day (or once every 3 days) and then it didnt pop the past week.
>
> Resets easily. Except for today where it made a occasional pop noise
from
> the heater wall. Also dims the lights, when it pops, smf when it does
pop
> nothing else is off.
>
> Any suggestions or do I need to buy a new one?
>
> Thank you for your time.
>
> John
>

The first step is to determine what the problem is. There are three
possibilities.

First possibility is that one of the elements in the water heater is
shorting and drawing too much current.

Second possibility is that there is a problem in the wire running between
the breaker and the heater.

And lastly the breaker is faulty.

I would kill the power to the heater, then remove the cable from the water
heater. Assuming you have two elements, pull the covers off of both and
remove the wires from both of them. Using the ohm meter measure the
resistance on each, it should be pretty close to the same for both. If one
of them has a lot lower resistance then that is likely your trouble.

If they check out OK, then first check that there is no continuity on the
two wires that were attached to the heater (breaker still off, heater still
disconnected, and that there is no continuity from either wire to ground.

If that test holds, then your wires are probably OK.

Reconnect the heater.

If you have another 240 breaker of the same rating for your stove or
something else you can swap the two breakers between the circuits (if you
know how and feel comfortable doing this.) if the problem goes away or
reoccurs on the other circuit then the breaker is suspect.

If you have not found the problem by now, it is either time for the
electrician or perhaps you could disconnect one of the two elements in the
water heater and see if the problem goes away, if it does not then try
running only the other element.

I am no expert, but this should isolate your problem. I suspect one of the
elements is the most likely suspect. If that is the case you will probably
need a 1/2 inch drive socket of the appropriate size (get a size point) and
a breaker bar. Heating the thing with a torch is also a good idea.

Be sure to kill the power, then drain the tank, then replace the element,
then refill the tank, then reenergize the circuit. If you don't do it just
that way you will wish you had.

Good luck.

--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.



Real Goods Solar, Inc.
Posted by JohnA via HomeKB.com on March 4, 2007, 8:00 am


The circuit stayed fine thru the night, I ran some hot water and cautiously
opened the 2 panels on it to see if I could examine anything out of place and
(not knowing or touching anything) but it did make a pop/knock sound in the
tank while looking at the tank.

I put the panels back and it brings a question to mind...
Why are there 2 thermostats on the tank?

Tank info: I do not see a year on it.
Raheem for manufactured homes, model 71-52d b,
wattage 240/208 upper and lower 4500/3380
50 gal and yes it has a double circuit switch.
>John

--
Message posted via HomeKB.com
http://www.homekb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/repair/200703/1


Posted by RBM on March 4, 2007, 10:30 am


John, aside from testing the various parts to determine the cause of the
problem, also check the conductor size and circuit breaker size. Your water
heater requires a #10 copper feed cable and a double pole 30 amp circuit
breaker




> The circuit stayed fine thru the night, I ran some hot water and
> cautiously
> opened the 2 panels on it to see if I could examine anything out of place
> and
> (not knowing or touching anything) but it did make a pop/knock sound in
> the
> tank while looking at the tank.
>
> I put the panels back and it brings a question to mind...
> Why are there 2 thermostats on the tank?
>
> Tank info: I do not see a year on it.
> Raheem for manufactured homes, model 71-52d b,
> wattage 240/208 upper and lower 4500/3380
> 50 gal and yes it has a double circuit switch.
>>John
>
> --
> Message posted via HomeKB.com
> http://www.homekb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/repair/200703/1
>



Posted by JohnA via HomeKB.com on March 4, 2007, 12:29 pm


>>I looked at the wires and they say

"E18679 (UL) AWG 10 CU 2 CDR with AWG 10 Ground type NM-B 600 Volts"
and the 2 connected breakers say "25" on both of them

--
Message posted via HomeKB.com
http://www.homekb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/repair/200703/1


Posted by RBM on March 4, 2007, 12:38 pm


Typically, it would be AWG # 10 on a double 30 as it's a more readily
available breaker, but the amperage of a 4500 watt heater is 18.75 , which
makes a double 25 just fine



>>>I looked at the wires and they say
>
> "E18679 (UL) AWG 10 CU 2 CDR with AWG 10 Ground type NM-B 600 Volts"
> and the 2 connected breakers say "25" on both of them
>
> --
> Message posted via HomeKB.com
> http://www.homekb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/repair/200703/1
>



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